Great images Andrew! I really like 'em! You have great detail just waiting to be 'enhanced/teased out'. One Q. hand-held or is the camera attached to the scope?
Heres a real quick reprocess of your last image I just did. I'll be trying on a few others later.
All handheld. I "mate" the camera lens to the eyepiece with my thumb and forefinger. I don't have any remote shutter button, so I don't think setting it up on a tripod would help me either. I think one key is to use eyepieces with long eye relief (such as the radians) as this also usually gives you a larger eye lens and allows you to 'search' for the planet in the field. Exercise in frustration, but occasionally it comes off.
What software / settings did you use / play with for your reprocess? I don't want to learn everyone's secrets, but want to know enough to start and learn some 'secrets' of my own
Was about to PM you Mike about splitting the thread, you saved me the trouble. Thanks.
Andrew, knowing there hand-held makes them even better. Well done. This is how I first started, with the kodak easyshare. I eventually made an adapter & fitted the camera to the OTA.
I use picture Publisher #8 as my image editing software. First I took your image & gave it 2 points of less gamma on all 3 red green & blue channels. Saved. Went back into gamma, 1 point less of the blue channel. Saved. Went into tone balance, up 4 points on highlights. Down 1 on midtones, up 2 on shadows, saved. 5 points of sharpening, 1 point of unsharp mask, saved. Went into hue map option, in there I have 11 colour/hue sliders. Tweaked 5 colour hues. Saved. Saturation shift, up 1 point. Saved. Resized smaller, Saved. Back into sharpening, up 2 points. saved. Down 6 points of despeckle. saved. Into Colour balance, up 5 points of contrast on red channel only. saved. contrast/brightness, up 2 points on all 3 red green blue channels on contrast, down 1 on all 3 channels brightness. Saved. Posted.
This is all just a basic 'tweaking' really. A lot more is involved to get the very best out of an image. Takes hours. I do it that often I don't need to think about it now. I think its taken nearly 3 years to learn this program, rather complicated, lol.
JJJ, when at the wavelets there is a rgb align tab, press estimate and the colours should then align better. ie at the moment it looks bluer at the bottom
i think its something to do with the camera lens dave. those are but single shots. i cant take AVIs so i didnt even bother with registax... would it help?
What eyepiece are you using and what does your eye see before the camera comes into play. Can you make out bands or was the image shifting all over the place. As you saw with the moon, if you have "heat waves" so to speak it means that the seeing is not great. The atmosphere is shifting or your telescope mirror is warmer than the surrounding air.
This is part of the comp to estimate the seeing and to start to get a feel for putting a number to it . So "School is in!!"
The moon is a great start and you have mentioned that it was wobbling. (http://damianpeach.com/pickering.htm) next, try finding a nice bright star and then putting your highest magnification on it. Can you then match it with this link?
If the seeing is bad ie number is low, then you will not see detail on jupiter. If the seeing is great then, you will see lots of fine detail.
Leave your scope out for at least 1/2 an hour to 1 hr before you start imaging etc.
Anyone got advice on wavelet value choices in Registax? I realise it may vary with image, but is there a good starting point? I am probably already at the limit of what I can get out of these single shot pics, but just curious to experiment some more. What other options are available for processing?
