I have tried again for another astrophoto with the data I captured last night on the Trifid.
Still not sure of the best way to process, things take longer with these large images...I may have overdone this one, I am not sure...there is also some coma at the edge of the field so I will have to try and figure out how to attach the MPCC with the T Thread on the 1000D.
I think this one seems OK, feel free to offer suggestions, I will try some tips offered from my M8 post and see if I can get longer and better subs. I think there is a lot of room to improve, hopefully.
Image Details:
Subject: M20 Trifid Nebula
Telescope: Black Diamond 200mm Reflector @ F5 on HEQ5 Pro
Camera: Canon 1000D
Capture: Canon EOS Utility
Guiding: No
Frames: 9 x 30 second at ISO 800, 1 x Dark Frame
Processing: Registax 5 only
as soon as you attach the MPCC, for reference, the MPCC will screw directly into the front of your T ring and is about the right spacing ( i don't notice any coma on my 40d in this configuration).
Thanks, I just screwed the MPCC straight into the Eos T ring adaptor, it seems this then just slides into the 2" focuser adaptor and therefore because it is so long, I suspect this is where the focusing problem is. I wonder what the removable ring on the MPCC is for? (with the green and white writing on it) Maybe this is for some other adaptor or lens interface?
Hmmm, Seems after reading that post the MPCC wont be able to be used until I can get a smaller 2" adaptor. Is this right?
The ring is for some other esoteric visual / photo thingo if I recall, take it off and put it somewhere safe for when you sell it, until then, forget it.
Sounds like you're having fun, and that's really what it's all about until they pay you to do it
BTW, I didn't have to mod the SW crayford on my f5 newt to get focus, if I recall, it was about 5mm from full in. But also, IRCC, JJJnettie had shortened the OTA to move the mirror up. The alternative is the long mirror screws and Brendan and Co can describe that, I personally never having done it. It sounds like a good method to me.
Yaahh, charge on, mateys!
(I knew you'd like the f5+HEQ5 combo, it's a real winner).
its not that you need a smaller 2" adaptor, you need to increase the throat size and add in a adaptor to hold the mpcc + camera in the focuser. But then again that was with my 10", SW might have changed their minds about it now. just try putting a 2" accessory though the focuser tube itself. if it goes though nothing to worry about! if not, then refer to the thread!.
its not that you need a smaller 2" adaptor, you need to increase the throat size and add in a adaptor to hold the mpcc + camera in the focuser. But then again that was with my 10", SW might have changed their minds about it now. just try putting a 2" accessory though the focuser tube itself. if it goes though nothing to worry about! if not, then refer to the thread!.
Hi Brendan, yes, I took the 2" adaptor out and the MPCC can go into the focuser but I would assume it needs a third screw to hold it centred as in your pic from the post? Otherwise, Like Mike says below, I may be able to focus anyway so I will have to try it out and see...
Thanks for the tip.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mldee
The ring is for some other esoteric visual / photo thingo if I recall, take it off and put it somewhere safe for when you sell it, until then, forget it.
Sounds like you're having fun, and that's really what it's all about until they pay you to do it
BTW, I didn't have to mod the SW crayford on my f5 newt to get focus, if I recall, it was about 5mm from full in. But also, IRCC, JJJnettie had shortened the OTA to move the mirror up. The alternative is the long mirror screws and Brendan and Co can describe that, I personally never having done it. It sounds like a good method to me.
Yaahh, charge on, mateys!
(I knew you'd like the f5+HEQ5 combo, it's a real winner).
Cheers,
Hi Mike, Yep, the only thing that would make it more fun would be to get paid for it...
I am glad I took the effort to post a wish list thread, you (and the others who suggested it) were right on the money that the rig is a ripper for easy starting (relatively - I've had a fair bit of experience with computers) in Astrophotography.... Just need to bone up on my capture and processing techniques before trying something like using autoguiding. I am stoked with the results so far in so little time...
Thanks so much to you and Brendan for encouraging me and providing some very valuable insight into what I can try and do with this, I really appreciate it.
Molly seems to think so (thanks again Molly)....so that makes two of us so far...
Anything I can do to try and get some more out of the data, like better processing or post production methods? I have had a fair bit of practice using Mike Salway's planetary techniques but apart from trying to tweak mine to look like other's pics, I don't have much of a plan when it comes to processing...
No problems mate, I always happy to lend my time help somebody else get to where they want to go!
The photo is not too bad but as i always say capturing the data is one thing having the right equipment/cameras is another and processing makes up the majority something only you can learn after a fair while.
Something else to have a look into is making a flats box, my one is very in expensive, with some CCFL out of a PC, and a flat white foam board from office works and a broccoli box from the super market plus a bit of your time. all up about 30-40 bucks sorted.
I still use the white T shirt stretched over the front of the OTA, and point it towards a clear early evening sky (5.30 ish at the moment). Then try a range of exposures or read the histograms), taking at least 10 each at various speeds. The optimal set will depend on the ambient light and the thickness of the T shirt
Apparently the aim with the flats is to get a set that have a mean reading of around 25000 in the pixel data.
I guess you don't do bias with the 1000d do you? If you do, just put the front cap on the OTA and take 20+ shots at 1/1000 or so.
Stack everything to get a master flat and a master bias. Then subtract the bias from the flat(s). Sounds so easy......Nebulosity will do it for you, as no doubt other software will as well.
I must admit, once you move to a ccd, Neb is good all round program and the tutorials in the Help section of the website are really simple and clear.
That really helps....me slide further down the slope...
I can see that I have broken the seal on the Astophotography package now....no returning it to the store for me....only one step at a time forward me thinks.
By the way, I have just set the camera ICNR on for long exposure and high ISO, as well as set it to record in RAW as well as JPEG. I assume RAW files are the way to go? I have read about FITS files everywhere but I think they are from dedicated AP CCD's or even the format to save things in, I am not sure.
That really helps....me slide further down the slope...
I can see that I have broken the seal on the Astophotography package now....no returning it to the store for me....only one step at a time forward me thinks.
By the way, I have just set the camera ICNR on for long exposure and high ISO, as well as set it to record in RAW as well as JPEG. I assume RAW files are the way to go? I have read about FITS files everywhere but I think they are from dedicated AP CCD's or even the format to save things in, I am not sure.
I was browsing through the Beginner AP thread (looking for advice of my own) when I came across your post. I also use a Canon 1000d.
The previous comments made by others are all valid. I can add one thing.
I use Craig Stark's Nebulosity to drive my 1000d and also to do some limited processing (to be fair, in the beginning I used it to do everything). Google will lead you to it. There is a free trial available.
It's not inhibitive in price, about USD 60. I can seriously recommend it, it made my life so much easier than Canon EOS Utility etc. (and I hear you say "Not another something else... "
You'll find that it converts Canon's RAW format straight into a FITS format on the fly, very useful. I also never use ICNR on for long exposure and high ISO as Nebulosity (and some darks) takes care of this. It aslo takes care of aligning, stacking and the like.
Hope this helps.
Clear Skies
Liam
PS - I have nothing to do with Stark labs etc. I'm just an AP on a budget (have you seen the ZAR > Anything exchange rate? )
I was browsing through the Beginner AP thread (looking for advice of my own) when I came across your post. I also use a Canon 1000d.
The previous comments made by others are all valid. I can add one thing.
I use Craig Stark's Nebulosity to drive my 1000d and also to do some limited processing (to be fair, in the beginning I used it to do everything). Google will lead you to it. There is a free trial available.
It's not inhibitive in price, about USD 60. I can seriously recommend it, it made my life so much easier than Canon EOS Utility etc. (and I hear you say "Not another something else... "
You'll find that it converts Canon's RAW format straight into a FITS format on the fly, very useful. I also never use ICNR on for long exposure and high ISO as Nebulosity (and some darks) takes care of this. It aslo takes care of aligning, stacking and the like.
Hope this helps.
Clear Skies
Liam
PS - I have nothing to do with Stark labs etc. I'm just an AP on a budget (have you seen the ZAR > Anything exchange rate? )
Hi Liam,
$1AUD = $1,000,000,000 ZAR
Thanks for the tip, I am looking at a number of different programs at the moment to sort this out.
)
There's not many who have managed to do so well on just their second image.
