Byers-worm /EQ mount

miki63au · #1 21-03-2019, 09:08 PM

Hi everyone,

At last, I stopped procrastinating (very good at that

) and progress with the Byers-worm/EQ project.

I have high hopes for this. Can't afford a high-end mount, and hunted down the Byers worm gears. 11" for RA and 6" for the DEC.
All plates and bearing housing is alu... the shafts are steel.

The tapered roller bearings ID is 70mm/North and 40mm/South. The worms will be driven by EqDrive steppers direct and controlled by EQMOD.

The C14HD will ride on this with a 80ED and perhaps a 6RC.

Not sure what to expect from this... Byers worm gear has a good reputation. Did a lot of research ... not found much plan or drawing. So I tried to keep it simple, but 'robust' ... if that's the right word. Going to be on a pier in an obsy... don't care of the weight.

My friends help me with the machining and did the drawings.
Before the machining, I like to ask you to comment on the design.
I'll welcome any input/criticism, suggestions.

I'll try to get CN's members help too.

Tank you

Mick

spiezzy · #2 21-03-2019, 09:25 PM

Wow Mick I will be watching this thread with interest this is going to be some mount thanks for sharing
cheers Pete

Saturnine (Jeff) · #3 21-03-2019, 10:52 PM

Looks like a great project, very solid construction and well designed, can't see any obvious flaws. The Byers Worm drives have a good reputation and I think I read on C.N. that Ed Byers was ceasing production, he has been around for a long time. Did the gears come with the slip clutches, not shown in your drawings and how are you locking the R.A. and Dec shafts after hand slewing, just curious from an machinists and construction point of view .
Not envious at all, much. Would love to have the facilities to machine up something similar and have somewhere to mount it.

Wavytone · #4 22-03-2019, 08:09 AM

Mick decades ago Byers drives were the holy grail - and very very expensive - not just a “good reputation”. Should work beautifully esp if you add an autoguider.

Somewhat envious but I don’t build stuff anymore.

Congratulations !!

bojan · #5 22-03-2019, 08:35 AM

Good design..

My only comment would be that because of shifted centre of gravity (marked with circle) in relation to the pier, there will be a considerable moment tending to bend the pier... but almost certainly you will not notice that. I would still do it like shown on the image...

miki63au · #6 22-03-2019, 08:57 AM

Thanks everyone,
Jeff;
the gears come with the slip clutches, it's on the drawing just not tagged.
It will be a Go-To not a push-to ... will use EqDrive steppers (not shown on drawing yet)

Nick;
Yes will use PHD2

Bojan;
I still working out to amount of over-hung to avoid meridian flip. The pier is 6" thick wall steel, bolted to a 12" concrete base with 20mm threaded rods.

Saturnine (Jeff) · #7 22-03-2019, 10:35 AM

Should have thought it through a bit more, of course the mount would be Go - To , automated, doh.

GW (Graeme) · #8 23-03-2019, 01:36 AM

Hi Mick

Your design will work well.
but be aware this can become addictive .

I am currently working on version 3 .
I originally started by finding an old good quality 10" worm and gear in the scrap, and got inspired by others here on Iceinspace .

had to buy second worm gear so brought the same as you(Byers 11")

I work in engineering but have never put any drawings on paper
just got ideas of the internet and tried it.

attached are photos of my fist attempt and verion2

version 1 worked extremely well but looked a bit agricultural so redesigned it (made it look more professional.)

both versions fully computerised using Arduino/EQAstro.
Had help for this part from a very talented work colleague (thanks Thava) but overall process was surprising easy.

Don't know how much it can carry but at least 30kg (as per set up in 3rd photo)

I am making Version 3 for Thava but this will be using 8" Byers , and this time round Thava is programming everything from scratch so it will be interesting to see how it performs

If you need any help let me know.

regards
Graeme

Stefan Buda · #9 23-03-2019, 07:51 AM

Mick,

I used a couple of those Byers worm sets for my big Alt-Az mount and I am very happy with them - they are really well made.

One comment about your last picture: Hope you are going to use washers with those screws. It hurts my eyes when I look at that photo.

miki63au · #10 23-03-2019, 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stefan Buda

Mick,

I used a couple of those Byers worm sets for my big Alt-Az mount and I am very happy with them - they are really well made.

One comment about your last picture: Hope you are going to use washers with those screws. It hurts my eyes when I look at that photo.

Hi Stefan,

Your mount look gorgeous

Can't see clutch... how do you balance?

Ps: re washers... you mean the pier to threaded rod? Yes

miki63au · #11 23-03-2019, 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GW

Hi Mick

Your design will work well.
but be aware this can become addictive .

I am currently working on version 3 .
I originally started by finding an old good quality 10" worm and gear in the scrap, and got inspired by others here on Iceinspace .

had to buy second worm gear so brought the same as you(Byers 11")

I work in engineering but have never put any drawings on paper
just got ideas of the internet and tried it.

attached are photos of my fist attempt and verion2

version 1 worked extremely well but looked a bit agricultural so redesigned it (made it look more professional.)

both versions fully computerised using Arduino/EQAstro.
Had help for this part from a very talented work colleague (thanks Thava) but overall process was surprising easy.

Don't know how much it can carry but at least 30kg (as per set up in 3rd photo)

I am making Version 3 for Thava but this will be using 8" Byers , and this time round Thava is programming everything from scratch so it will be interesting to see how it performs

If you need any help let me know.

regards
Graeme

Hi Graeme,
your eq mounts looks great

The Mk1 you have the worm gears South of the axes then you moved it to the North like AstroP. Did you find this arrangement better? I looked lots of designs, and by place it to the South make the clutch more accessible and the Dec has less over-hung. That was the old way... now every mount use North for the worm location. I guess better for Go-To?

Stefan Buda · #12 23-03-2019, 10:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by miki63au

Hi Stefan,

Ps: re washers... you mean the pier to threaded rod? Yes

I think so - see attached picture. The contact area between the screw and the plate appears to be so small that the slot will get damaged. A washer should increase the contact area.
My mount can be pushed around like a Dob so that I can check the seeing without having to plug in the electricals. The scope lives outside on the patio while the PC and power supply is on a trolley in the shed.
The friction clutch can be adjusted by the small screws near the centre.

miki63au · #13 23-03-2019, 10:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stefan Buda

I think so - see attached picture. The contact area between the screw and the plate appears to be so small that the slot will get damaged. A washer should increase the contact area.
My mount can be pushed around like a Dob so that I can check the seeing without having to plug in the electricals. The scope lives outside on the patio while the PC and power supply is on a trolley in the shed.
The friction clutch can be adjusted by the small screws near the centre.

I see what you mean, yes I'll use washers... it's a temp arrangement at the moment

GW (Graeme) · #14 23-03-2019, 07:31 PM

Hi Mick
I found that by mounting the clutch directly on the main shaft (doing away with part pictured)I got better alignment of the worm and gear .
Plus I could reduce shaft length by about 75mm making the whole unit a lot more compact.
Moving the Dec stepper to the rear (something not possible when on the south end)also reduced bulk and helped with cable management
regards
Graeme

miki63au · #15 23-03-2019, 08:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GW

Hi Mick
I found that by mounting the clutch directly on the main shaft (doing away with part pictured)I got better alignment of the worm and gear .
Plus I could reduce shaft length by about 75mm making the whole unit a lot more compact.
Moving the Dec stepper to the rear (something not possible when on the south end)also reduced bulk and helped with cable management
regards
Graeme

Thanks Graeme interesting, you are the 2nd person to suggest get rid of the clutch and make the worm dis-engage for balancing. Too scared not to have clutch and the Byers arrangement is well tested of time. Replace the alu hub-teflon shim with steel shaft? And how to support the wheel? Thrust bearings?

GW (Graeme) · #16 24-03-2019, 10:33 AM

HI Mick

The worm gear is clamped with Teflon washers and a locknut system, so I still have a clutch
For balancing I disengage the worm .( Slacken the retaining screws and a spring pushes it out of the way .)

Regards
Graeme

miki63au · #17 24-03-2019, 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GW

HI Mick

The worm gear is clamped with Teflon washers and a locknut system, so I still have a clutch
For balancing I disengage the worm .( Slacken the retaining screws and a spring pushes it out of the way .)

Regards
Graeme

Thanks Graeme,
I'll see if that is possible for this project ...thinking

The reason I like the Dec over-hung, is to track pass the Meridian.
So to eliminate the already machined clutch arrangement for reducing the RA shaft length is not attractive to me.... and need to machine an accurate shaft OD to replace the Byers hub ... matching the worm wheel ID.