Hi all,
Finally set the new telescope up yesterday well enough to track the sun for over two hours nearly in dead centre of fov. This allowed me to have a look at a few things last night.
I have attached some pics that I know aren't the best but I'm happy with them as first tries.
1. The moon via a 2x barlow. Canon 60D 1/10th shutter ISO 640
2. The moon via 15mm projection 3/10th shutter ISO 640
The view of the moon was breathtaking last night. The way the craters looked 3D was amazing. A pity my pics don't do it justice.
3. Saturn via 5x Powermate with 60D attached via t-adapter. Canon cropped movie mode @ 60fps and ISO 6400. Probably too bright for these settings. I used AutoStakkert for the first time but have no idea how to use Registax yet for editing (or any other advanced editing).
It's my first Saturn so even though not the best I'm happy.
4. M22. This was an 8 second exposure at ISO 1600
5. Wild Duck was 10 seconds at ISO 1600.
I am now well aware of how difficult longer exposure will be. My mount tracked the sun for over two hours yesterday afternoon but with the cluster pics you can see movement in the stars at 8 seconds.
All tips for improvement welcome
Anyway, I will keep trying.
Cheers
Mick
Last edited by mikeyjames; 03-11-2016 at 06:07 PM.
Hi Mick,
Some interesting pics - always good to experiment. I esp. like the one of M22.
Thanks,
John W.
Thanks John. It was a real trial and error thing. I had nothing showing on live view so had to take a pic, check how it looked, then adjust focus a touch, and then repeat until it looked okay. I think I need to get some parfocal rings and set an eyepiece to the camera focus position.
M22 looked beautiful through the scope. At first I wasn't sure I was seeing anything and then it popped out and looked like shimmering diamonds.
beautiful picture of the moon there. And the cluster with only 1 frame? awesome discovery!
You must be so looking forward to the next nights.
Thanks Anette. The moon looked amazing through the eyepiece. I want to keep learning and eventually understand how to get pics that look like what I'm seeing.
First suggestion Mick; DSLRs are not the first choice for lunar work because
they suffer from vibrations from the shutter and mirror, causing slight
blurring of the image. You can minimise this by using an ISO of 1600
or so, and a much higher shutter speed. As an example for a half moon
ISO 1000 or 1600 and a shutter speed around 1/3200 to 1/4000. The
exposure is over and done with before the vibrations really get going.
Obviously you would have to use slower shutter speeds for a sliver of moon
such as you had, probably 1/250 to 1/500 range.
Even a sliver of moon should be bright enough in Live View to enable you
to get spot on focus. When focusing on objects that are too faint to show up
on Live View, slew to a bright object, focus on it and lock the focuser, and
slew back to your target.
raymo
Correct Raymo,
I always slew to a bright star and focus through live view and lock it. I also set the 10 second timer as well to settle the wobbles down as well. I use DSLR Controller software on my tablet which helps the knees.
The 2 clusters are impressive Mick. And getting the others must have been a feel good moment too. My Saturn attempts have never, and will never, be seen :-)
Well done - Trev
First suggestion Mick; DSLRs are not the first choice for lunar work because
they suffer from vibrations from the shutter and mirror, causing slight
blurring of the image. You can minimise this by using an ISO of 1600
or so, and a much higher shutter speed. As an example for a half moon
ISO 1000 or 1600 and a shutter speed around 1/3200 to 1/4000. The
exposure is over and done with before the vibrations really get going.
Obviously you would have to use slower shutter speeds for a sliver of moon
such as you had, probably 1/250 to 1/500 range.
Even a sliver of moon should be bright enough in Live View to enable you
to get spot on focus. When focusing on objects that are too faint to show up
on Live View, slew to a bright object, focus on it and lock the focuser, and
slew back to your target.
raymo
Hi Raymo
Appreciate the tips. I'll them a give a go next time out. I tired using a parfocal ring last night but still seemed a little off. When I ordered the scope I asked for a 2-speed focusser and the store is going to send me one to swap out. I hope it's better than the single speed that came with the scop - it is really hard to lock the focus without it moving a bit as you tighten the thumb screw.
Thanks
Mick
Correct Raymo,
I always slew to a bright star and focus through live view and lock it. I also set the 10 second timer as well to settle the wobbles down as well. I use DSLR Controller software on my tablet which helps the knees.
Regards
Kon
Another good idea as my knees need all the help that can get.
The 2 clusters are impressive Mick. And getting the others must have been a feel good moment too. My Saturn attempts have never, and will never, be seen :-)
Well done - Trev
Thanks Trevor. I've had a couple more goes at Saturn with little difference but I'll keep trying.
Regarding focus shift when locking the focuser, most budget level focusers will do this. I experimented a few times to see which way the focus shifted, and
now defocus slightly in the appropriate direction, so that locking it brings it back into focus. You can minimise the problem by having the locking screw
partly nipped up whilst focusing, so almost all of the slop in the focuser is
taken out beforehand.
raymo
