#441  
Old 24-12-2016, 03:14 AM
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Pat, did you get the name of the chemical used for debayering of the sensor?

Filip, did you do any more tests regarding the use of THS4031 instead of AD811?
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  #442  
Old 24-12-2016, 08:50 AM
pat30 (Patrice)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luka View Post
Pat, did you get the name of the chemical used for debayering of the sensor?

Filip, did you do any more tests regarding the use of THS4031 instead of AD811?
Yes, sorry for the time .
I put the photos, the blue bottle for microlens and the yellow for matrix.
For the blue bottle there are no written components.


I still have the horizontal strip problem, I do not know what to do, I have to watch R12 worm now


edit: Luka, looks on the Russian forum, Rome gave me an information for the horizontal lines.
Unfortunately I do not have oscilloscopes so I can not see now, I have to find someone !!
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Last edited by pat30; 24-12-2016 at 06:41 PM.
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  #443  
Old 24-12-2016, 09:39 PM
flolic (Filip)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luka View Post
Filip, did you do any more tests regarding the use of THS4031 instead of AD811?
I have no time for that now...
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  #444  
Old 24-12-2016, 11:26 PM
flolic (Filip)
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pat30, on Ukrainian forum you asked about AD9826. All of AD9826s are the same (3 channel input), additional lettering are for various options (lead free, packaging...)
RL at the KRSZRL code means reel of 1500 pieces.

There is error on Mouser site stating that device have only 1 channel
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  #445  
Old 25-12-2016, 12:05 AM
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Pat, if you still have problems after checking R12 and C14, as Grim suggested, can I suggest to try checking the values of various capacitors around the relevant components. When I was assembling my board I noticed how easy it was to mix up components, especially the capacitors. Apart from the size they all look the same and none have labels. Mixing them up is just too easy.

Also I think I solved the mystery why I was having reads that last 3.8 seconds... clicking too quickly/often in the software. Firstly the cam does not like taking photos immediately after a power up and also the software allows to start an exposure while the previous exposure is still going (continuous button).
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  #446  
Old 25-12-2016, 12:06 AM
pat30 (Patrice)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flolic View Post
pat30, on Ukrainian forum you asked about AD9826. All of AD9826s are the same (3 channel input), additional lettering are for various options (lead free, packaging...)
RL at the KRSZRL code means reel of 1500 pieces.

There is error on Mouser site stating that device have only 1 channel

Thank you Flolic, I found this, weird too
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  #447  
Old 25-12-2016, 12:10 AM
pat30 (Patrice)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luka View Post
Pat, if you still have problems after checking R12 and C14, as Grim suggested, can I suggest to try checking the values of various capacitors around the relevant components. When I was assembling my board I noticed how easy it was to mix up components, especially the capacitors. Apart from the size they all look the same and none have labels. Mixing them up is just too easy.

Also I think I solved the mystery why I was having reads that last 3.8 seconds... clicking too quickly/often in the software. Firstly the cam does not like taking photos immediately after a power up and also the software allows to start an exposure while the previous exposure is still going (continuous button).
I ordered all the components with separate packaging and reference on paper,
So I think I did not make a mistake but it is true that it is possible I did it with R14 and R15
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  #448  
Old 25-12-2016, 02:12 PM
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Hopefully you find the issue Patrice. Also there was lots of talk on the Ukrainian forums about bad components, even from reputable suppliers like Farnell.

Also, probably not relevant for us in Australia, there was an interesting bit of information on the Ukrainian forums:
Quote:
Also I looked at the manual chip in the camera and thermal modes of operation - was saddened that our AD811 opamp in SOP package should work just above 0 degrees, but in DIPe can and red, and he is afraid of statics.
Basically the opamp AD811 in SOP package does not works under 0 degrees C. The same opamp in other packages work fine below zero. Interesting...

Last edited by luka; 26-12-2016 at 01:22 PM.
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  #449  
Old 26-12-2016, 07:50 PM
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I go a bit in the search for horizontal bands, the Cam is not the problem, it is the PC and there I need help:

The PC is in high performance mode about 1 photos out of 3 has tapes, I put it in energy saving on 40 pictures just 1 had tapes, so I think there is a relationship.

In this mode the Cam has more time to connect and the pictures are longer to download.

With the liveview function of the APT, no band so assume is at the time of recording that everything happens!

On my small notebook no problem on all the photos taken!

So if a computer gods little help me this would be nice.
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Old 26-12-2016, 08:21 PM
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Pat, it is good news that the stripes are not caused by the cam itself.

Regarding the computer, there are few things to check:
1. Drivers - are you using the latest ones? Both the cam drivers and the motherboard drivers (check the motherboard manufacturer's website).
2. USB port - try a different port. Perhaps try the ones at the back of the computer.
3. USB 3 vs USB 2 - new computers come with most of USB 3 ports and few USB 2 ports. They are often colour coded. If you are using USB 3 port, try an USB 2 port. And other way around.

Good luck and let us know what happened.
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  #451  
Old 26-12-2016, 08:54 PM
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Another thought, I had issues (random crashing, not responding, bad images) with Cam86 running on Windows on the VirtualBox on a linux host. Moving it to a laptop running Windows solved the problems.
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Old 28-12-2016, 09:43 PM
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It is good, I found the solution for the horizontal bands; I changed the PC .

Radical as a solution but it works
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  #453  
Old 29-12-2016, 06:30 PM
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Great work Pat, problem solved one way or the other

Filip, when you removed the glass from your sensor for debayering, what temperature setting did you use on your heat gun? I just started working on mine and the glass came off but in 2 pieces. Sensor still works. My heat gun (858D clone) was set to 340 degrees C.

The reason I am asking is that previously I took glass from a broken D40 sensor in one piece. I used maximum temperature setting at that time.
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  #454  
Old 29-12-2016, 06:46 PM
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Another image from uncooled cam86, 78x 1s exposures through SW 10" dob. I did 100 images but lots were blurred as I had to nudge the dob several times during the acquisition to keep the target in sight.

Ignore the trailing, 1s is clearly too long exposure without any tracking.
0 gain and 0 offset, no binning.
Ambient temperature was about 20 degrees C.
3D-printed camera housing with several light-leaking holes at the back for cables.
The cam worked perfectly with APT (Pat thanks for the tip).

I noticed that 3 images out of the lot had higher noise than the rest. They were consecutive images in the middle of the sequence. Not sure what happened there.

Also, Pat and Filip, I vaguely remember reading somewhere that we should use several (4?) seconds pause between exposures. Is this right or is my memory playing tricks on me? I used 1s between exposures for this photo and everything seemed OK.
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Old 29-12-2016, 10:31 PM
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APT sends the command after the download of the image so no problem with 1 second.
I think the 4 seconds are for CamView because with it it is possible to ask for an image while the first is not registered!
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  #456  
Old 30-12-2016, 12:00 AM
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Debayering the sensor... need to stop myself before going too far...
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Old 30-12-2016, 01:47 AM
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I think I will stop debayering here, at least for tonight. My hand hurts and can't even type properly so details will need to wait until tomorrow. Tools used are toothpick and patience.

Some of the CFA (on the top of image) just won't budge, no matter how hard I scrape... a bit annoyed about this.
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  #458  
Old 30-12-2016, 03:31 PM
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Also Rowland's link did not work for me when I clicked on it but when I copied/pasted it, it worked fine

It is for IRFP7430PbF rectifier.
It's a logic level MOSFET - very low rds on < 1mOhm - very cool running... on second thoughts the footprint is quite big.
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Old 30-12-2016, 08:17 PM
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Luka, IIRC I used around 360C to remove glass. I cooled back of the sensor with damp cloth, not allowing it to overheat.
Glass on my sensor shattered in few pieces, but fortunately did not damaged the sensor.

Good job on debayering btw
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Old 31-12-2016, 12:59 AM
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It's a logic level MOSFET - very low rds on < 1mOhm - very cool running... on second thoughts the footprint is quite big.
Funny, I probably got rectifier stuck in my head instead of MOSFET as there was a big logo on the top of the datasheet with the name of the manufacturer, International Rectifier

Anyway, apart from the too large footprint that MOSFET only works with 5V logic and we are using 3.3V. RDS climbs very steeply with VGS under 6V. From the datasheet I would guess it is 6mΩ for 5V.


Thank you Filip. It was actually easier than I thought, apart from few tough spots that just would not go away. Perhaps a key to getting the glass off in one piece is higher temperature of the hot-air gun. The glass will heat up quicker and there will be larger temperature differential to the resin. Hence the glass may come off quicker... but the strain on the glass would be larger as well
Another thing I did differently with the sensor that the glass survived the removal was to start heating all corners instead of starting at one corner and chasing the opaque, separated bond.
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