#1  
Old 24-11-2005, 03:47 PM
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davidpretorius
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Toucam help - white brightness

Hi guys, thanks i now know what white brightness is.

Without tracking i am going to have a hard time having it on for 20 seconds and then turning off.

Generally i have 9 seconds as the object goes across the screen at 500x

Any suggestions or is say 7 seconds or 2 passes of 7 seconds and then turning off, will that do the trick???
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Old 24-11-2005, 04:51 PM
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acropolite (Phil)
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Dunno Dave, but maybe they are setting up white balance, which, if it is, becomes irrelevant when using RAW as it's applied after exposure.
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Old 24-11-2005, 05:28 PM
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damn, you are right, i have just tried taking some raw images (based on the Nikon D1) with the toucam and then converting to colour and the white blance made no difference at all!

Mars colour has been great, but saturn disgusting!!!!

Back to the drawing board!!!


far right: raw with white balance on
middle right: converted colour
middle left: with red slider in the white balance area pulled to the far right
far left: converted colour
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Old 24-11-2005, 05:54 PM
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Can't help with the rapidly moving object, but can I suggest that once you nail the "correct" setting you either record it, or better still "Save" it with WCCtrl.
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Old 24-11-2005, 06:07 PM
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asimov (John)
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Yep. Keep bumping the scope to keep the object in view for 15-20 secs then do as Gary says.
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Old 24-11-2005, 06:09 PM
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problem is that using the raw mod, then the white balance makes no difference at all?

so i have to try and work out this saturn problem!!!
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Old 24-11-2005, 06:23 PM
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asimov (John)
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Hmmm. Interesting. I deliberately have'nt looked into this raw mod yet, I've got enough trouble working things out as it it!
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Old 24-11-2005, 06:34 PM
bird (Anthony Wesley)
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Guys, for what it's worth, my $0.02 is that the raw mod isn't going to make a lot of improvement if you're imaging without tracking - the motion of the object through the field of view will add enough blurring to each frame that the small increase in image quality from the raw mod is lost.

You might find it more productive to stay with the normal ToUcam firmware for the time being, until you get some sort of tracking...

If you want something exciting to do, how about replace the colour ccd with the monochrome ccd and then buy yourself a filter wheel and filters, that will make a *lot* of difference, plus you get the fun of doing all your image three times :-)

Bird
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Old 24-11-2005, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bird
If you want something exciting to do, how about replace the colour ccd with the monochrome ccd and then buy yourself a filter wheel and filters, that will make a *lot* of difference, plus you get the fun of doing all your image three times :-)

Bird
for a toucam, where and how much???
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Old 24-11-2005, 07:37 PM
bird (Anthony Wesley)
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DP, it's been done mate, have a look at:

http://www.astro-imaging.de/astro/toucam_bw_mod.htm

With a monochrome ccd then the RAW mod makes sense, cause youre just getting 640x480 pixels of monochrome data, you no longer want the onboard colour processing.

Make sure you check out the sensitivity test, it's very revealing!

regards, Bird
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Old 24-11-2005, 08:00 PM
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have you a good source for colour wheels??
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Old 24-11-2005, 09:43 PM
bird (Anthony Wesley)
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mm, if you're after a manual wheel then they're pretty easy to find - Bintel could probably sell you one.

I went crazy and spent about $1200 on a wheel from www.trutek-uk.com, but I think manual wheels can be found for a fraction of that.

Bird
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Old 24-11-2005, 09:52 PM
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Sounds cheaper just to get tracking. Plus you can do DSO's then.
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Old 25-11-2005, 05:08 AM
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iceman (Mike)
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That's a very interesting link Anthony.. apart from the B/W chip, it looks like the standard colour mode (no firmware changes) is the best bet for the normal ToUcam. That's good, because I gave up on any firmware changes long ago as I wasn't happy with the results.

Ken, the monochrome camera + RGB filters will give a better result whether you've got tracking or not. It increases the frustration factor, but it also increases the quality of the image.
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Old 25-11-2005, 10:50 AM
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Found some manual filter wheels, looks like we'd need to spend about US$200, and that doesn't include the filters.

http://astro-engineering.telescopes....ces_36784.html

http://www.astrovid.com/prod_details...0&querystr=ATK
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Old 25-11-2005, 10:58 AM
bird (Anthony Wesley)
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Yeah, add AUS$300 for the Astronomik filters and it comes to about AUS$700 or so for wheel and filters.

Not cheap, but when you consider:

- no more white balance or colour balance issues
- double the resolution (640x480 in each colour)
- with no filter you have about 3x the sensitivity

it becomes a whole new world of imaging.

Bird
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Old 25-11-2005, 11:04 AM
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now to the noobie, a simple blue, green & blue filter you would buy in a kit for $99, what is the difference to Astronomik???

Also if the filters can be sourced easily, i am sure Mick Pinner could tool this up!
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Old 25-11-2005, 11:05 AM
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atik by the looks of it sell arthur's ambermile stuff.

i wonder if he can source it better ie the whole lot???
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Old 25-11-2005, 11:12 AM
bird (Anthony Wesley)
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DP, the main problem with the low cost filters (ie coloured glass) is their transmission characteristics - they have a lot of crossover, i.e. the blue filter lets through a lot of green and red, so you get funny results when you recombine to make a colour image.

The expensive filters are not coloured glass, they are something else entirely and use special coatings to let through only narrow bands of light. You can usually rely on these filters to give you images that recombine to make a true colour image.

regards, Bird
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Old 25-11-2005, 11:17 AM
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i knew you were going to say that!!!!

oh well, time to add to my wishlist in my signature
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