Filter replacement service for EOS cams

[pmrid (Peter)]

I was just browsing astro sites I hadn't looked at for a while and was having a quick look through Peter Tan's Hong Kong site (tan14.com) I noticed he has a filter replacement service for HK$500. That would not include the filter I suppose - which tend to run about HK$700 or so. But at HK$1200 all up (about A$200) with a bit for postage, that's not a bad service.

So I'm wondering if anyone has used it. Any comments on it. I've asked him whether he can do cooling mods as well and am waiting for a reply.

EDIT:
I just got a reply. He doesn't do a cooling mod but the all-up price including PayPal fee and return postsge is $HK1350. That's a pretty good price and it includes a Baader ACFII filter.

Peter

[axle01 (Alan)]

I've just sent one of my Sony A7s cameras to a Mike Malik in the US to be modded, coat is $399 US plus postage,,,,,,he does Canons to.

For more information: mike_malik@msn.com



.

[kon1966 (Kon)]

Hi guys,
went past a camera shop on George st Sydney today and asked if they knew anyone in sydney who could remove the IR cut filter on eos cameras. They suggested..

Whilton camera service.
http://www.whiltoncamera.com.au/

I called them and said for my 1100d it would be about $150 and takes a day.

Regards
Kon

[John K]

Originally Posted by kon1966

Hi guys,
went past a camera shop on George st Sydney today and asked if they knew anyone in sydney who could remove the IR cut filter on eos cameras. They suggested..

Whilton camera service.
http://www.whiltoncamera.com.au/

I called them and said for my 1100d it would be about $150 and takes a day.

Regards
Kon

That's cheap by OZ standards - did not know that these guys can do this - so worth investigating, but you need to also get a filter.

Originally Posted by pmrid

I was just browsing astro sites I hadn't looked at for a while and was having a quick look through Peter Tan's Hong Kong site (tan14.com) I noticed he has a filter replacement service for HK$500. That would not include the filter I suppose - which tend to run about HK$700 or so. But at HK$1200 all up (about A$200) with a bit for postage, that's not a bad service.

So I'm wondering if anyone has used it. Any comments on it. I've asked him whether he can do cooling mods as well and am waiting for a reply.

EDIT:
I just got a reply. He doesn't do a cooling mod but the all-up price including PayPal fee and return postsge is $HK1350. That's a pretty good price and it includes a Baader ACFII filter.

Peter

I have had my camera modded by Peter with the same filter. All worked well, he just took time to respond after I sent the camera and then forgot to send me the camera strap so had to send this separately after I asked. But the camera has worked flawlessly now for 12+ months and I also got him to get me a 12v to 240v adaptor so I no longer needed batteries.

[pmrid (Peter)]

To balance the comparison, it seems right to point out that the $150 mentioned is for filter removal only, and does not include replacement with a Baader or whatever. On the same basis, Peter Tan's price of HK$500 is rather less, even with postage.
Peter

[traveller (Bo)]

You are right peter.
Peter Tan sells replacement filters separately as well as modding them. The only advantage of an ACF filter is that it will preserve your refractive index (plus acting as a dust shield). A simple filter removal is just as good (most dslr sensors have a clear glass cemented onto the sensor and not just a naked sensor).
If you plan to do everyday photography with your modded camera, then get the replacement filter. But if you want it for astro photos only (or don't mind manual focusing each shot), then a filter removal is just as good.
Cheers
Bo

[pmrid (Peter)]

Originally Posted by traveller

You are right peter.
Peter Tan sells replacement filters separately as well as modding them. The only advantage of an ACF filter is that it will preserve your refractive index (plus acting as a dust shield). A simple filter removal is just as good (most dslr sensors have a clear glass cemented onto the sensor and not just a naked sensor).
If you plan to do everyday photography with your modded camera, then get the replacement filter. But if you want it for astro photos only (or don't mind manual focusing each shot), then a filter removal is just as good.
Cheers
Bo

That's interesting.

I had assumed (wongly it would seem) that without a filter, your sensor would be open to the entire spectrum and therefore be prone to excessive sky-glow effects - the Baader UV/IR cut filters (the ACF varieties) have a very sharp gradient at both ends and extend the red end only enough to capture the bulk of Ha. If anyone has any more info on this, please post. I'm heading to Google now to see what I can find there.
Peter

[glend (Glen)]

Peter my research, prior to removng my UV/IR blue cast filter, from Gary Honis and others, was that you can entirely remove the back filter but will still get some sharp cutoff from the front filer (aka Low Pass 1). A Baader screw in UV/IR Cut filter will give you the same result as replacing the back filter (assuming you removed the original. Spectrum runs from 400-700 nm with the Baader screw in (into you t-adaptor assuming it is threaded for filters). Thus gives you choices. I left my Low Pass 1 so dust protection stays but no longer have the UV/IR original. Focuses fine .

[traveller (Bo)]

Originally Posted by pmrid

That's interesting.

I had assumed (wongly it would seem) that without a filter, your sensor would be open to the entire spectrum and therefore be prone to excessive sky-glow effects - the Baader UV/IR cut filters (the ACF varieties) have a very sharp gradient at both ends and extend the red end only enough to capture the bulk of Ha. If anyone has any more info on this, please post. I'm heading to Google now to see what I can find there.
Peter

You are partially correct Peter. Canon DLSRs have two filters in front of the sensor (with the glass stuck on). The first is a "pink" filter which has uv/IR cut function. The second is a "blue" filter used to filter the light spectrum to mimic the human eye response. If you remove the pink and blue filter, you will lose autofocus and the camera is a full spectrum mod. If you just remove the blue filter and keep the pink filter in, the Ha response is increased in the same manner as a full spectrum mod, the uv and IR end are filtered out and the autofocus loss is negligible.
Bo

[MelD (Melvyn)]

I have had two EOS filter replacements performed by Peter Tan, both of which are very satisfactory. He performs the work in a cleanroom, so is apparently very professional in his approach. Good value for money IMHO

[Mckechg (Grant)]

I used the camera clinic in Fitzroy in Melbourne.

[rcheshire (Rowland)]

Hi Peter.

From what I can see, both filters may be removed if using reflecting optics - for reasons scientific, focus is not a problem. Conversely, refracting optics require a filter because focus is impossible with such a broad spectrum. I have attempted this with interesting results, but not focus.

The camera needs a filter of some sort to retain autofocus. Quite separate from the reflecting/refracting focus issue.

I remove both filters and fit a UV/IR Astronomik clip-in, which satisfies both requirements - optical and auto-focus.