Wasn't sure WHERE to put this thread, but figured here fits OK. I want to buy a shed (about 3.2 x 2.5m ). My idea is to put up a thick, weather proof partition in the middle, use one side for storing garden tools, and the other side for storing my scopes. Mainly, I want my 5" setup on the EQ mount permanently without having to setup and take down everytime I want to use it.
What I want though, is the option to open the roof. Anyone know where I can find something like this? My concrete slab is ready, just need to find a shed for this.
OK, been there, done that. SkySlab had a swivelling flat roof system (due to space limits) but it proved to be hard to secure and a little difficult to open and balance. It finally blew off into the neighbours backyard (twice!) and I replaced it with my own split roof system Essentially a pair of sloped roof sections that meet slightly offset from the middle and just slide along the top edge of the shed walls. I made it from exterior ply and some 150 x 25 x 1800 fencing timber plus a lot of self tapping screws ( love my battery power drill driver ). I'll find\take some pix if you like so you get the idea. It is quite light.
Here a pic of it in another thread http://www.iceinspace.com.au/forum/s...d.php?t=123058
Skyslab is 2.65 x 1.75, a bit smaller than your idea. A nice feature I hadn't realised was the abilty to just open a sufficient gap for a particular target and thus reduce dew and protect PC's and other equipment.
I think you'll find Scopes and stuff take up a lot more room than you think and the tools might get relegated elsewhere ... just saying...
Thanks guys. Pics would be awesome. I'm hoping it would be possible to get a shed, and then modify it fairly easily without compromising the build/weather proof etc... haha. I'm already planning to decrease the space for the garden tools! See how much I can stack in a tiny space to give more space for the scopes! haha
I'll get some pix this weekend. I needed to strengthen the top edge of the walls with the same 150 x 25 planks as most sheds are stabilised by the roof being a bracing member. They were also useful when I added the roof slides outside by just using some 63mm spire screws straight through them. I've since added some vertical timber in the corners as well so I can secure bits and pieces. Some metal corner brackets from Bunnings brace the shed corners.
Your tools section and any walls, roof bracing there will help make it solid as well.
Buy a decent power drill\screwdriver and a couple of boxes of spire screws and you can assemble anything !!!
I hope I'm not too late in suggesting this but, would you consider putting up two sheds on the same slab? One for tools, one for scope. It would save having to chop the roof and add partitions, etc. depending on the type of shed, you could attach the adjoining walls together then focus on a way to remove the roof section. Maybe even slide the roof off the scope shed over the tool shed roof on a frame to save room? I hope this helps.
Cheers!
If you go the 'two sheds' option you could consider putting down a course of bricks under the astronomy shed to raise it slightly. Then mount the rails for a roll-off roof on top of the garden shed and it's starting to look like a plan.
Ah wicked. Cheers for all the info guys. I just destroyed the bank account purchasing a new bed, mattress etc... but I think I still want to squeeze the shed out.
If you go the 'two sheds' option you could consider putting down a course of bricks under the astronomy shed to raise it slightly. Then mount the rails for a roll-off roof on top of the garden shed and it's starting to look like a plan.
I built a low platform over my concrete slab with the pier going through but not touching the platform. So I can walk around and not disturb the mount with vibration. Also keeps it out of the wet, bricks wick water up unless you seal beneath. Isolated floor is the answer to it all. It also allows a cooling breeze beneath which yo may find useful in Aus.
Harder to take than I thought but here you go.
Frontal shot, door open. Ob is on a raised floor over the slab, about 400mm above it, you can just see the pier inside. Pier goes through the floor and down onto the slab. Roof slopes West (left) East Right. West side is longer and has a central flat section that overlaps the east by 100mm. You can also just see the tops of the wooden rails the roof sections slide out onto both sides.
Inside looking up into the roof and the overlap area opened up slightly. The hasp and clasp is one of the lockdowns (4) and you can see the slope of the roof and ply ( only 4mm exterior ) Probably about 60 screws holding it all together so it acts like a braced diaphragm construction.
150 x 25 is strengthened by the steel bar over a join.
Inside corner shows the 150 x25's braced (behind the black cloth) and a cross member in the roof. I've hung my two PC screens up on the back wall, gets me some desk space below. Black cloth just keeps stray light suppressed.
Hope this gives you some ideas. This was a cheap Chinese import shed, only about $400 so is pretty flimsy but the wood gives it the strengthen and the tin keeps it dry. I may have to add a soft seal strip between the two roof sections overlap, I've had a few drips come through but I keep the scope and mount under an old sheet and then a plastic cover.
Last shot is the scopes and pier. They just get in under the roof by about 100mm or so. If I was doing it again I'd make the roof a bit higher, maybe 300mm in the centre, not 150mm. Other than that I'm happy with how it works.
If you go the 'two sheds' option you could consider putting down a course of bricks under the astronomy shed to raise it slightly. Then mount the rails for a roll-off roof on top of the garden shed and it's starting to look like a plan.
Thanks guys. Another question... What do you do, if anything, about the heat? The shed I get will be in an OK position, but will have the sun on it for about 5 hours of the day. Do I need to do anything to limit the heat in there for the scopes?
Not a problem for mine. Underfloor gap helps but I'm also quite protected by other fencing and it leaks enough air to stay close to ambient. The breeze through the gap also helps keep the concrete slab cool.
Bit different in Aus I'd expect. I'd be inclined to insulate the north facing wall and roof maybe. The gear should not mind being quite warm and you don't normally use it in the day anyway. Open it up early evening to cool down and stabilise.
I'd contemplated using some of the original corrugated roofing panels as a top layer to provide an airgap and wind tunnel effect on my roof. Would provide an extra layer of sheilding and heat reflection.
I insulated the inside of my roof with polystyrene glued on with water based liquid nails. I then glued on a sheet of thick cardboard. The outside roof and walls were painted white to help reflect heat. A couple of 90mm PVC elbows were fitted to the highest point on the wall, (the outside section pointing down), to allow warm air to escape and enhance airflow.