The DS is critical in seeing the fine surface detail. Without it you will be looking at prominences and little else so figure it in to your purchase price.
Yes the DS absolutely does make the fine detail easier to see. OTOH, If I was seeing "prominences but little else" in single mode, I'd return the scope to the shop.
Yes the DS absolutely does make the fine detail easier to see. OTOH, If I was seeing "prominences but little else" in single mode, I'd return the scope to the shop.
Cameras pick up detail in the far IR much easier than the eye. the difference between SS and DS visually is amazing. Cak is even more extreme - some people can't even see the violet disk and nobody can make out detail visually, but through a mono camera the detail is incredible.
Thabk you for confirming. At least i know what i need think about and consider. The DS module is not cheap to add. The lunt 60 with Ds included is already 5k
I might need to save up a bit more.
Mel
Quote:
Originally Posted by AstroJunk
It is possible to get it as an aftermarket addition. The one pictured has a red DS attached to it, but as you rightly say, isn't included.
I first got a taste of Ha viewing with a brief look through someone else's Coronado SolarMax 60. It was enough to get hooked into solar viewing and I then bought my own Coronado SolarMax 40 which is all I could afford at the time. It was one of the last of the earlier version (pre-Meade takeover) with full sized etalon and recommended to me over the PST for its narrower band pass and better focuser for both visual and photographic use.
I can see prominences and surface detail at the same time and I can enhance one over the other by tweaking the etalon and/or by focusing. The centre of the sun is slightly different focus to the edge. The band pass is 0.7 and with 40mm aperture it is a very good compromise to give both prominences and surface detail. If I were to double stack to get 0.5 band pass I would probably struggle for light with 40mm aperture but I'm not sure and it's a bit expensive for me to try and at this stage the current view is plenty pleasing with lots of detail visible. I use 25mm, 18mm & 12mm Cemax eyepieces with 18mm being my favourite but I also really enjoy the view with my 16mm Clave Plossl and 14mm Tele Vue Radian as the magnification is just about perfect.
Note as a single stack there is plenty of light with 40mm and the resolution is stunning. Buy the biggest aperture you can afford but don't be dismayed with lesser apertures as the view is quite pleasing especially for casual viewing of the Sun.
Mel,
I've using and "modding" solar telescopes for the last seven years.
Used both single and double stack assemblies.
In my opinion start with a single stack. This will gives you good views of the proms and surface features.
Thank you for sharing. I guess now i am wondering is it really worth getting the double stack or buying more aperture as a single?
I guess i have been looking at it from the wrong perspective.
What would you recommend bang for buck is ideal?
Thanks again,
Mel
Quote:
Originally Posted by Merlin66
Mel,
I've using and "modding" solar telescopes for the last seven years.
Used both single and double stack assemblies.
In my opinion start with a single stack. This will gives you good views of the proms and surface features.
Appreciate you sharing your experiences as it helps me make hopefully a more informed decision.
I guess now wondering if a ds will make a huge difference in the view or is it more dependant on the aperture or band pass?
I am now leaning towards a lunt LS60THa/B600C, as the b1200 is $600 more if i was to get it now.
Thanks,
Mel
Quote:
Originally Posted by astro744
I first got a taste of Ha viewing with a brief look through someone else's Coronado SolarMax 60. It was enough to get hooked into solar viewing and I then bought my own Coronado SolarMax 40 which is all I could afford at the time. It was one of the last of the earlier version (pre-Meade takeover) with full sized etalon and recommended to me over the PST for its narrower band pass and better focuser for both visual and photographic use.
I can see prominences and surface detail at the same time and I can enhance one over the other by tweaking the etalon and/or by focusing. The centre of the sun is slightly different focus to the edge. The band pass is 0.7 and with 40mm aperture it is a very good compromise to give both prominences and surface detail. If I were to double stack to get 0.5 band pass I would probably struggle for light with 40mm aperture but I'm not sure and it's a bit expensive for me to try and at this stage the current view is plenty pleasing with lots of detail visible. I use 25mm, 18mm & 12mm Cemax eyepieces with 18mm being my favourite but I also really enjoy the view with my 16mm Clave Plossl and 14mm Tele Vue Radian as the magnification is just about perfect.
Note as a single stack there is plenty of light with 40mm and the resolution is stunning. Buy the biggest aperture you can afford but don't be dismayed with lesser apertures as the view is quite pleasing especially for casual viewing of the Sun.
Hi Mel, try before buying if at all possible.
Yes DS makes a big difference but ultimately only you can decide if it's worth the money.
Both aperture and band pass determine how much detail you (easily) see, but they do this in different ways.
Might wait to see if there any sales to allow me to get a decent scope hopefully with ds.
Appreciate all the help you have provides
Thanks again,
Mel
Quote:
Originally Posted by N1
Hi Mel, try before buying if at all possible.
Yes DS makes a big difference but ultimately only you can decide if it's worth the money.
Both aperture and band pass determine how much detail you (easily) see, but they do this in different ways.
Just had a question regarding pressure tuning and whether its required? If I have an option, should I opt to buy a model with this? I am not too sure what it actually does?
All Ha scopes can (and need to) be tuned by altering the optical surfaces very subtly. There are three methods of doing this that I can think of, electronically (Daystar), by tilting (Coronado) or by pressure (Lunt mostly). Your scope may be a combination of those.
My 50 has a pressure tuned etalon and tilt tuned DS unit for example. The theory goes that Pressure tuning is better than tilt tuning (a bit of history - Mr Lunt designed and built Coronado then sold the company to Meade. His son Andy went on to produced a whole new range of improved solar telescopes using pressure tuned technology). Electronic tuning a la Daystar seems to be the best by far, but requires long fl scopes and can't get a whole disk view.
Thanks for explaining how the various tuning methods work.
It looks to me I may need to up the budget a bit.
Still deciding between double stack ls50 b600pt or single stack ls80. Would you still recommend a double stack?
Thanks,
Mel
Quote:
Originally Posted by AstroJunk
All Ha scopes can (and need to) be tuned by altering the optical surfaces very subtly. There are three methods of doing this that I can think of, electronically (Daystar), by tilting (Coronado) or by pressure (Lunt mostly). Your scope may be a combination of those.
My 50 has a pressure tuned etalon and tilt tuned DS unit for example. The theory goes that Pressure tuning is better than tilt tuning (a bit of history - Mr Lunt designed and built Coronado then sold the company to Meade. His son Andy went on to produced a whole new range of improved solar telescopes using pressure tuned technology). Electronic tuning a la Daystar seems to be the best by far, but requires long fl scopes and can't get a whole disk view.
Thanks for that. I enjoy learning new things and its always great to get
advice.
I have learnt a lot from everyone and need to choose within my new budget what to choose. Double stack lunt ls50 or push and wait for ls80 single?
Thanks,
Mel
Quote:
Originally Posted by astro744
I first got a taste of Ha viewing with a brief look through someone else's Coronado SolarMax 60. It was enough to get hooked into solar viewing and I then bought my own Coronado SolarMax 40 which is all I could afford at the time. It was one of the last of the earlier version (pre-Meade takeover) with full sized etalon and recommended to me over the PST for its narrower band pass and better focuser for both visual and photographic use.
I can see prominences and surface detail at the same time and I can enhance one over the other by tweaking the etalon and/or by focusing. The centre of the sun is slightly different focus to the edge. The band pass is 0.7 and with 40mm aperture it is a very good compromise to give both prominences and surface detail. If I were to double stack to get 0.5 band pass I would probably struggle for light with 40mm aperture but I'm not sure and it's a bit expensive for me to try and at this stage the current view is plenty pleasing with lots of detail visible. I use 25mm, 18mm & 12mm Cemax eyepieces with 18mm being my favourite but I also really enjoy the view with my 16mm Clave Plossl and 14mm Tele Vue Radian as the magnification is just about perfect.
Note as a single stack there is plenty of light with 40mm and the resolution is stunning. Buy the biggest aperture you can afford but don't be dismayed with lesser apertures as the view is quite pleasing especially for casual viewing of the Sun.
Not sure which is better although PT seems to get the nod with a few exceptions. I have TT and it works well for me but mine is Coronado with full size etalon (pre-Meade).
On double stacking note you can always add a second filter later albeit a some considerable cost but it seems this cost is already added if you buy DS up front. Note the LS60 was sold with a 50mm DS filter effectively reducing your 60mm single stack scope to 50mm when using DS. This option lowers the DS cost but now a full size 60mm DS filter is available.
Please clarify if you are considering 50mm DS scope vs 60mm SS scope or is it 50mm DS scope vs 80mm SS scope as your last two replies indicate. A big difference in cost between 50mm DS and 80mm SS but if this is your choice then I think aperture always wins and you can always add an internal DS module to the 80mm later (at some cost though). Lunt don't seem to have a separate 80mm separate filter.
What do you want to do with your solar 'scope?
Casual visual only with the occasional photo or video?
Frequent visual and photo study of the Sun?
If the former then the LS50 PT or TT, SS or DS will provide for many hours of enjoyment over many years provided it is looked after with care. If the latter then greater aperture will give greater resolving power and if you go SS initially you can always add a DS filter even years later.
I too highly recommend you look through a solar telescope if at all possible first even say a PST so you can see what the minimum aperture with broadest band pass will show and see if you like what you see.
Whatever you choose enjoy!
Quote:
Originally Posted by m11
Hi Astro,
Appreciate you sharing your experiences as it helps me make hopefully a more informed decision.
I guess now wondering if a ds will make a huge difference in the view or is it more dependant on the aperture or band pass?
I am now leaning towards a lunt LS60THa/B600C, as the b1200 is $600 more if i was to get it now.
Thanks,
Mel
Quote:
Originally Posted by m11
Just had a question regarding pressure tuning and whether its required? If I have an option, should I opt to buy a model with this? I am not too sure what it actually does?
Thanks,
Mel
Quote:
Originally Posted by m11
Hi Astro,
Thanks for explaining how the various tuning methods work.
It looks to me I may need to up the budget a bit.
Still deciding between double stack ls50 b600pt or single stack ls80. Would you still recommend a double stack?
Thanks,
Mel
Quote:
Originally Posted by m11
Hi Astro,
Thanks for that. I enjoy learning new things and its always great to get
advice.
I have learnt a lot from everyone and need to choose within my new budget what to choose. Double stack lunt ls50 or push and wait for ls80 single?
