Mel
EAA, video astronomy, or whatever we call it needs its own section, or sub-section. There's a lot to discuss and it just gets lost in the single thread we currently have (the sticky currently in the beginner's equipment section). The first issue is that you need GOTO/tracking otherwise it will be nothing more than frustrating – and an EQ mount is better unless you have a fast scope and sensitive camera.
The camera depends on whether you want to view just on a TV/monitor or on a computer; whether you want DSOs or planetary. TV is thought by some to be the easiest and requires a camera with video output. There's a few around from Revolution Imagers, the G-star etc.
Sounds like you have a USB camera in mind. The advantage of a computer is that you can stack images (see some examples in the sticky). BUT - you can run the video cameras into a computer but the AD converters have low resolution.
- Some cameras have excellent dedicated software = Infinity and the lodestar/ultrastar (>$1000). These are CCD.
- there's the newer USB cameras which are really coming into their own for EAA – the smaller 1/3” 224 based ones, the bigger 4/3” 1600, and many others. The 224s – ZWO ASI224MC (Bintel), LP-GUIDE-C2 (myastroshop), there’s one from altair. They either have their own software, or there’s sharpcap (excellent and free), and astroliveusb (I’ve a\had trouble with this, but free if you have a zwo camera).
For your 6SE:
You'll need a sensitive camera to use short subs (<20sec), otherwise you'll get field rotation. The 224 and other 1/3-1/2” cameras has been used with great success - its very sensitive and really low read noise so you can do 1 - 15sec subs for many DSOs. Also, you need focal reduction to make it faster - get it down near F5. For example, see this thread on CN (224 and Revolution imager on a 6SE):
http://www.cloudynights.com/topic/54...ost-eaa-setup/
You need the smaller sensor 1/3-1/2” sensor like the 224 etc with this sort of focal reduction on an SCT (otherwise severe vignetting). And be careful with the length of the imaging train on an ALT-AZ mount.
If you want to use the 1600 (4/3”) you have to go much slower at F6-7 and this might not work on your ALT-AZ mount. Also, things like the infinity might not work for the same reason – it's a slower, more AP-like camera.
I’m using the 224MC with my 8” SCT at F3.5-5 and its good. I also use a DSLR, but up near F7-8 for smaller FOVs. And I’m on an EQ mount.
Your other scope is a 90mm APO F7. What mount is this on ?
If on an EQ GOTO, you can use the same camera, the infinity etc, but might need a bit of focal reduction. Or you can go for a larger sensor – you’ll get some great wide fast shots. I'm using the 224MC on my 80mm F5.9 APO (sometimes a bit of focal reduction). But I really like using a DSLR on it (EOS Utilities + astrotoaster), see Howie's youtube, post #194 in
http://www.iceinspace.com.au/forum/s...d.php?t=139900
I’m thinking about the 1600 colour cooled to use on my APO and maybe an 8” F5 imaging newt (again see Howie’s youtube).
So. Maybe a 224-like camera is a good start ? Its not too expensive, and I’ve had some great fun on mine. But I’m biased so maybe others could comment. Or if you have a DSLR, or a camera from a guidescope lying around, just try them. Whatever, I would start off with a cheaper camera
Cheers, Chris
Sorry this was so long winded.
