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  #21  
Old 09-03-2015, 11:45 AM
Mqrko (Marko)
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oh yes that's right. G11 is a lot less heavy.

EQ8 is 25kg
G11 is 16kg
HEQ5 Pro is 10kg

I can handle 16kg, it's not much compared to the HEQ5 Pro, not sure about carrying 25kg...so I think I've done my choice on the mount
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  #22  
Old 09-03-2015, 01:15 PM
glend (Glen)
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I use an NEQ6 as my mobile imaging mount and have no problems with it. Don't forget the rated capacity of any mount is for visual use. If your imaging you want to keep the load to 2/3rds to 3/4s of the rated capacity. I run with about 15kg on my mount for imaging and its very good - but take the time to establish a firm tripod base for each leg, pavers are good if you can carry three with you.
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  #23  
Old 09-03-2015, 01:59 PM
Mqrko (Marko)
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For the G11, the maximum payload is 50kg so I think it's more than enough.
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  #24  
Old 09-03-2015, 02:46 PM
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RickS (Rick)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mqrko View Post
For the G11, the maximum payload is 50kg so I think it's more than enough.
Unless you have a top tier mount (e.g. Astro-Physics or Bisque Paramount) it would be unwise to go anywhere near the maximum payload spec if you're imaging.
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  #25  
Old 09-03-2015, 03:20 PM
Mqrko (Marko)
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Yes, I'll limit the load to 30kg max.
I'll start with a short refractor first then get something bigger when I have enough experience.

Usually, what do people get in the beginning ? an 80mm refractor ?
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  #26  
Old 09-03-2015, 04:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mqrko View Post
I'm looking at this article about the sampling : http://www.astropix.com/wp/2011/03/0...nd-pixel-size/
How do I determine the seeing ? Is it different for each DSO ?

In your experience, do you often use 2 telescopes or you pick one telescope and stick with it for the whole night ?
I also want to use my telescopes for visual, just a quick look. nothing special.

I think it will be better for me to get a modified canon DSLR. It's cheaper than buying a CCD camera.
Is it better to buy the telescope, then find a camera matching the telescope or the opposite ?

If I want to save time tweaking the mount, is it better picking a higher end mount ?
I also looked at the mach1GTO and 1100GTO, very expensive :/
How does it compare to the EQ8 or G11 ? is the difference obvious ? Can I have the same picture quality with a little bit of work ?

I also read about the Hyperstar which can be used with SCTs that are compatible. Is this a good alternative to RC ?

Where can I find second hand equipment (I found Astromart so far) ? It's a lot more cheaper to buy in the USA.
How much is the delivery cost and customs approximately ?
Concerning the warranty, if something bad happens, do I have to send it back to the country it comes from ?
Hi Marko,

Seeing is location dependant, this is another reason why APers will travel. It depends on many things, your surroundings, the weather and the jet stream.

Typically most people spend several nights per target, sometimes you can get away with a target in a single night, but I'm used to shooting LRGB or narrowband, OSC may be different.

WRT your camera choice, a modded DSLR may be cheaper but undoubtedly a CCD camera is better for most targets. I've just had my CCD in for repair and was using my DSLR, I have to say CCD is the way to go, again find a 2nd hand CCD and it'll be cheaper than a DSLR and if you find you don't like AP, then selling it should not be a problem. Your camera choice will influence your scope choice and vice versa, look at a package, know what matches what and hunt around.

I have used my PMX away from home, it's best described as transportable rather than portable. I used a 4WD to transport it and the scope, but with a smaller scope a normal sedan would work. The AP1200 GTO that's on IIS classifieds at the moment is a steal, I considered buying it as a trade up from the PMX, then flogging the PMX, but I would class the 1200 GTO as a permanent mount, wouldn't think of going bush with it. Picture quality depends on many things, not having to "tweak" your mount just takes one variable out of the equation, I, personally think a premium mount is worth every cent.

Hyperstar SC's suffer from all the dewing problems of normal SCs and have a huge central obstruction. I've not seen that many great pictures produced with one, compared to other designs (Newtonian, RC etc).

Secondhand gear is cheaper in the US. You'll find a good selection here though, and not have to deal with customs. Astronomy gear does not attract a duty, but is subject to GST on the price including freight, so be careful that bargain may not be. I have just posted on IIS about a good experience with a local supplier.

Usually AP scopes are not that good for visual, SCTs are an exception though. I have a 14" goto Dobsonian mounted Newtonian for visual stuff.

HTH.

Cheers
Stuart
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  #27  
Old 13-03-2015, 04:08 PM
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sil (Steve)
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Marko, I suggest you learn to use your d800 and processing involved in astrophotography. I do just fine with my D800e from a tripod (no problems with comets), and before my stroke was getting great galaxies/nebula with camera on my cgem dx. Never connected it to any of my scopes, just camera and lens (what do you think a telescope is anyway??). If it makes you feel better to throw money on gear go ahead, I dont think the gear is the limitation.
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  #28  
Old 15-03-2015, 12:44 PM
Mqrko (Marko)
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I usually go to Blackheath mount or other lookouts in blue mountains for 1 night. I unfortunately don't have the time to do several nights :/
what are the seeings for these places ?

I think the best thing to do is to keep my d800 to start with, until I'm more experienced.
I can deal with the vignetting since I have to crop the picture.

The T-adapter and T-ring cost nothing so I prefer spending the money on those instead of buying another DSLR which is about $300 plus the extras accessories.

So far I've made this list. Is everything coherent ?
- Orion ED80T CF APO.
It comes with 2" dual-speed Crayford focuser. Does it worth it to change it to a Moonlite focuser ? Reviews on CN are quite good for the dual speed Crayford.
- Losmandy G11 G.
Do I need to upgrade the worm gear to Ovision worm ?
- Nikon T-Ring
- 2" T-adapter (any brand will do ?)
- TSOAG9
- SX Lodestar or SX Lodestar X2 ?
Which field flattener would you suggest for the scope ?
Is there any cable I have to add or everything is included ?

I'll try to find these items second hand.

Do I also have to calculate the spacing between the eyepiece and my sensor ?

To protect the equipment against dew, basically, what I need is a dew shield for the scope, autoguider and the dslr. And a dew controller to control the temperature of the dew shield. Is it correct ?
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  #29  
Old 15-03-2015, 12:59 PM
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Amaranthus (Barry)
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The ED80T CF focuser is excellent and doesn't need swapping out. I use the TRF-2008 field flattener with it, which takes the FL to 384mm. Spacing is 56mm.
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  #30  
Old 15-03-2015, 10:12 PM
Mqrko (Marko)
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Is the 56mm spacing also for a Full Frame DSLR ?

I need to calculate the distance of
focal reducer + OAG + 2" t adapter + t ring
then add some spacers to find the optimum focus

is it correct ?
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  #31  
Old 16-03-2015, 11:30 AM
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rustigsmed (Russell)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mqrko View Post
Is the 56mm spacing also for a Full Frame DSLR ?

I need to calculate the distance of
focal reducer + OAG + 2" t adapter + t ring
then add some spacers to find the optimum focus

is it correct ?
Hi Marko,

the spacing refers to the sensor spacing not the front of the camera - for eg I know with canons the sensor to "start of the camera" is 44mm which only leaves ~11mm to squeeze in a coma corrector (which requires spacing 55-58mm similar to the field flattener) with OAG between them.

Which meant using a 0mm bayonet eg http://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/...optical-l.html note that this link is for a canon I don't know if they exist or not for Nikons.

So you may need a field flattener with longer spacing to get around it - I don't have a refractor so not sure if they are common.

cheers

rusty
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  #32  
Old 17-03-2015, 01:18 PM
Mqrko (Marko)
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the sensor spacing of the d800 is 46.5mm which leaves me 9.5mm if I use 56mm spacing. It's just enough to put the TSOAG9 and I have 0.5mm left.

I found an adapter for Nikon but the website doesn't provide details on the spacing.
http://www.teleskop-express.de/shop/...=3629#zubehoer

http://gerrygibbscamerawarehouse.com...-m48---nikon-f

Other solution:
WO AFR-IV gives me more range to play with at 66-86mm spacing but someone else in the forum had issue with it so I'm not very confident buying it. Anybody else has experience with it ?
http://www.iceinspace.com.au/forum/s...ad.php?t=45822
http://www.iankingimaging.com/show_product.php?id=927

WO Flattener 6 has 70.5mm spacing. I haven't found any reviews.
http://www.williamoptics.com/accesso...ner6A_spec.php

Just to be sure, this is the correct setup, right ?
Telescope (ED80) -> 2" focuser (2" dual-speed Crayford) -> Focal reducer -> Spacing if required -> TSOAG9 -> M48 bayonnet Nikon -> D800
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  #33  
Old 17-03-2015, 02:55 PM
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rustigsmed (Russell)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mqrko View Post
the sensor spacing of the d800 is 46.5mm which leaves me 9.5mm if I use 56mm spacing. It's just enough to put the TSOAG9 and I have 0.5mm left.


Just to be sure, this is the correct setup, right ?
Telescope (ED80) -> 2" focuser (2" dual-speed Crayford) -> Focal reducer -> Spacing if required -> TSOAG9 -> M48 bayonnet Nikon -> D800
Hi Marko,

You need the TSOAG9 with M48 attachment, just so you know I have a feeling the TSOAG9 actually equals 11mm when attached to adaptors/connectors - but you are best off emailing Thomas from the TS for advice on if it would work or not.

Let us know how you get on

Cheers
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  #34  
Old 17-03-2015, 04:24 PM
Mqrko (Marko)
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The description says:

-- Length to the 2" terminal: 9mm
-- Length to the M48x0.75 thread for screwed adaptations: 11.2mm

So I guess, I have to do the calculation using the 11.2mm ?

It's not going to work if it's 11.2. I have to find something else
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  #35  
Old 18-03-2015, 04:05 PM
Mqrko (Marko)
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I sent an email to TS, waiting for their answer.

Having a ccd camera would solve everything, right ?

I'm thinking about the QSI 683 which comes with everything, all in one product so I don't need to scratch my head.
Atik 383L is a bit more expensive since it's not sold as a package.
SBIG ST-8300M, I haven't found review on the integrated auto guiding camera.
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  #36  
Old 18-03-2015, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mqrko View Post
I sent an email to TS, waiting for their answer.

Having a ccd camera would solve everything, right ?

I'm thinking about the QSI 683 which comes with everything, all in one product so I don't need to scratch my head.
Atik 383L is a bit more expensive since it's not sold as a package.
SBIG ST-8300M, I haven't found review on the integrated auto guiding camera.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mqrko View Post
The description says:

-- Length to the 2" terminal: 9mm
-- Length to the M48x0.75 thread for screwed adaptations: 11.2mm

So I guess, I have to do the calculation using the 11.2mm ?

It's not going to work if it's 11.2. I have to find something else
ccd cameras generally have a much shorter distance to sensor so spacing to correctors aren't as tight.

I used to use a MPCC (coma corrector) that had the 55-58mm spacing but now use a RCCI (91.5mm) to allow the use of filters in the imaging train.
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  #37  
Old 19-03-2015, 10:43 AM
Mqrko (Marko)
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Yes, depending on the answer, I'll decide if I go for CCD or not.

I think I will buy the g11 and the ed80 first so I can play with it a little bit. I also need it for the next blood moon
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  #38  
Old 20-03-2015, 11:41 AM
Mqrko (Marko)
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I received the confirmation there is no working nikon adaptor for my setup and TS suggested me to get a finder scope 8x50 instead.
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  #39  
Old 21-03-2015, 11:53 AM
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I received the confirmation there is no working nikon adaptor for my setup and TS suggested me to get a finder scope 8x50 instead.
that is unlucky, so you're not going to consider a different flattener with longer spacing?
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  #40  
Old 24-03-2015, 03:21 PM
Mqrko (Marko)
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I considered the wo flattener 4 but there are not many reviews on this one unfortunately :/

I decided to get the qsi 683, it's an easier solution
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