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Old 01-06-2006, 11:28 PM
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dugnsuz (Doug)
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Location: Hahndorf, South Australia
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Cleaned my 12" mirror tonight

Hi all,
Cloudy/Rainy night tonight here in SA, so I decided to clean my mirror.
Not as much of a drama as I thought it would be.
Followed all the advice on this site and on the web which is great.
Just want to add a couple of things...
1. Mark a line with texta non the outer lip of the mirror cell to line up with the screws which hold the cell in place - this will make replacing the cell easier after cleaning.
2. When you try to replace the mirror cell after cleaning you may find that the cell wont fit back into the tube as easily as it came out.
The cell may "keep" the shape of the tube when in place, but when removed the tube shape "relaxes" and can distort slightly making the cell's return a bit more difficult.
I got my son to lightly push the sides of the tube back into a round "o" shape so that I could replace the mirror cell - which I did!!

My Dob is 2nd hand so this might not be a problem in newer scopes - but why would you clean a new scope's mirror???

I've attached a text file with all the cleaning info that I gleaned from the net.

Hope this helps somebody.
Cheers
Doug
Attached Files
File Type: doc CLEANING MIRROR.doc (103.5 KB, 42 views)
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Old 02-06-2006, 07:56 AM
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Lester
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Hi Doug,

I hope your mirror was dirty before you cleaned it. Many mirrors are cleaned too frequently, and is the major cause of scratching. I know it is everybodies choice as to when they clean their mirror, but it would be good to have a guide as to how dirty it has to be say before 2-5% reflection is lost.

Any way yours is clean now, go get em Doug.
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  #3  
Old 02-06-2006, 10:17 AM
astro_nutt
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Hi doug,
I had to clean the mirror on my 10"dob..( I sneezed!)..another good idea is to mark a line the side of the mirror with a black marker so you can replace it in the exact position in the mirror cell..it helps with collimation!!..After I cleaned it, I found a swirly pattern on the mirror when light is shined directly on it, I made some inquires and found that this is a result of oxidization between the aluminum and quartz overcoat..but it does not not affect the image!!!.I tested it a few night's later and all seems well!!...but I agree in knowing when to clean a mirror...enjoy your nice clean views Doug!
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  #4  
Old 02-06-2006, 01:32 PM
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Gargoyle_Steve (Steve)
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My scope has to suffer a bit of a dusty environment thanks to my 2 dogs mainly I guess, and though my 10" is only a couple of months old I've cleaned my primary twice, and I have even had to clean my secondary once now as well.

(Yes, I am going to make some shower cap style dust covers for both ends).

A quick tip for other newbies like me: rather than unscrew my secondary totally from the spider assembly and risk it dropping or sliding down the tube (potential mirror on mirror collision - nasty!) I thought I'd try to remove the entire spider/mirror assembly as a whole and put it back in place the same way, in theory saving myself from having to re-collimate my secondary all over again. I had hoped that at worst I may be in for a quick adjustment.

I used calipers (or dividers if you have some) to check the secondary's position in the tube beforehand (and yes it was precisely centred, as it should be in an already collimated newt). When I secured the spider again I made sure that the centre "hole" of the centre screw of the secondary was again positioned dead centre.

Happily the result was that in my case the secondary mirror had not moved at all relative to the rest of the scope, and so my secondary apparently required that no adjustment at all. A very quick and minor 2 screw adjust of the primary and I was back in business - as good as it was before.

A quick note on collimation for beginners: I had been using the "film cannister" method of collimating initially but wasn't satisfied with the results. Again remember that I am a newbie to all of this, my newt is only about 12 weeks old. People with much greater knowledge than I seem quite able to collimate very well using a simple cannister or other home made tool and their experience.

Sadly I needed to get it collimated NOW as I was not seeing the optical clarity that I knew this scope was capable of, and to be honest it was peeing me off somewhat. So about 5-6 weeks ago I invested $69 in a combination sighting / Cheshire tube, made a world of difference to the speed and accuracy of my collimation. Worth it's weight in gold!! I have found that a couple of friends from this forum are very happy to let me loan them this tool too for use on their own scopes.

Steve

PS: Last Sunday morning Graham Long (for anyone who knows this gentleman) generously offered to check my collimation with his laser collimation tool (the return target type) and gave it a little tweak. While it was close, and as good as I have had it since owning the scope, it was not perfect. After his gentle adjustment it was certainly as close as humanly possible.


I still think the combo sighting/Cheshire tube is fantastic and shows you quickly and easily what is out of line and where it has to be, however the laser tool (make sure you get the type with the return target - you'll see why) gives you that last tiny bit of perfection. I can see myself buying one of those soon too - currently around $60 at Andrew's I believe. I think for me both tools have a definite place in my essentials case, and for any other newbie who isn't really sure what to adjust when and in which direction.
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Old 02-06-2006, 05:15 PM
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dugnsuz (Doug)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lester
Hi Doug,

I hope your mirror was dirty before you cleaned it. Many mirrors are cleaned too frequently, and is the major cause of scratching. I know it is everybodies choice as to when they clean their mirror, but it would be good to have a guide as to how dirty it has to be say before 2-5% reflection is lost.

Any way yours is clean now, go get em Doug.
Hey Lester!!
yeah, it was pretty dirty - 2nd hand scope stored in garage.
Cheers
Doug
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  #6  
Old 02-06-2006, 07:36 PM
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leon
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ah,ha...... so you do like my shower caps........

Leon
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  #7  
Old 03-06-2006, 06:22 PM
CoombellKid
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lester
Hi Doug,

I hope your mirror was dirty before you cleaned it. Many mirrors are cleaned too frequently, and is the major cause of scratching. I know it is everybodies choice as to when they clean their mirror, but it would be good to have a guide as to how dirty it has to be say before 2-5% reflection is lost.

Any way yours is clean now, go get em Doug.
A mirror can look fairly dusty before you really need to clean it. You will
start to get a loss of contrast. Think of dust in the same way as a central
obstruction. If the dirt on your mirror were scrunched into a solid patch
would it be as big as your central obstruction your secondary causes?
Yes this maybe hard to judge. But in reality it is a similar effect. I think
there is a formula for working out the size of a central obstruction before
the is any noticable loss in performance.

regards,CS

Rob

PS: I clean mine every time I'm doing any serious imaging, or about every
6 months or so. I have never had a problem with scratching the surface.
But then again I have worked with lasers and optical surfaces used in those
applications, where a mirror 10mm x 10mm can cost AUS$300.00. However
there is one thing I never do that I have seen folks do and was shown in
the recent mirror cleaning article in AS&T and that is lay the mirror flat and
blast water at it, I always palce mine at an angle that way I'm not blasting
water down directly onto grit more blowing it side ways. But that just me

regards,CS

Rob
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  #8  
Old 03-06-2006, 06:29 PM
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matt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoombellKid
there is one thing I never do that I have seen folks do and was shown in
the recent mirror cleaning article in AS&T and that is lay the mirror flat and
blast water at it, I always palce mine at an angle that way I'm not blasting
water down directly onto grit more blowing it side ways.
That's a good point, Rob.

I've often considered the potential for pitting or scratching a mirror's surface from directing a blast of water directly at dust and grit gathered on its surface.

Better, as you say, to direct water at an angle and maybe increase water speed a little to see if it moves the worst of the gunk.
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  #9  
Old 03-06-2006, 06:54 PM
CoombellKid
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I place it in a colander like in the pic, I let it rinse/wash like that
for about 5-10 minites then 180 it and leave again for about 5-10
minites. I find sometimes hitting crud from both sides, it usually
gives up. Then I check it if all the big chuncks are gone. Then I use
a lens cloth like in the other image and rinse again. I used to have
my method up on my site... but been slack and haven't move it to
the new space.



regards,CS

PS: I never use detergent, and finish with distilled water
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