I could be wrong but I thought I'd read somewhere CO2 lasers were required for acrylic. Then again I read so much stuff that vacates the building the moment I scratch my nose.......
I used to have better than a photographic memory, I don't miss my teeth (well, sometimes), I don't miss my hair (it's only thin on top where I can't see it) but I do really miss my photographic recall.
The worst part is, I relied on it so often.. and because I always could recall images (even text from books), I didn't develop "normal" practices, like writing down notes.. Now I my PM is gone and I still don't make notes .
BTW, acrylic is not transparent to IR, so CO2 laser can deliver energy into material, to melt or even evaporate it.
My initial purpose is to make light guide plates to light up some images I've had printed on canvas, only where I want it lit up so just small recesses in one side.
Yes, memory, I did many years of study at TAFE across a range of fields suitable for mechatronics and went through everything and got distinctions across the board, read it once, in there for life or at least till 55. Maybe it was the double fives that messed me up, lol.
I got some bits and pieces today from AliExpress. It all appears to be of a very high quality. I also got a set of good (I think) mirrors and primary lens (the good type) but have chosen to leave those packages sealed until the build progresses to a point where I need them. Build hasn't started and judging by this rain won't for a while.
Plus I have the 50 watt tube already. The power supply appears to be well built and will handle a 100 watt tube should I eventually decide to upgrade.
Funny, I purchased an extra connector set (white plastic/something twist together 2 piece thing) and 5 metres of the good 5mm high voltage cable. I didn't realise the PSU came with it, it wasn't shown in the listing. Along with glasses suitable to the 10,600 nanometer tube (it sounds so much better than the pathetic 10.6um things, LOL). I've also ordered a good quality current control panel (all purchased when AliExpress recently had a sale and I've saved well over $100 off current prices) still somewhere in Aus posts system, hopefully.........
I'm going with something more secure than alligator clips.
In saying that, despite this PSU having two EHT (line output) transformers, the output of one going straight to the input of the other and I'm guessing it would be a NASTY nip but I've been stung before, too many times to count.
Part of my job building and repairing TV's at National and Rank had me looking at the screen directly and reaching around inside to adjust stuff, blind. Back then they'd switch out to live chassis models and if you weren't paying attention... Then the EHT transformers, grabbing the wrong thing there.....
And NEVER touch a picture tube lead until you prod the input and short it to ground.
What's a picture tube? :Haha:
Neville is your system running belt drive or ball screws?
I've seen mention ball screws are better for accuracy than belt and the other screw type thingies ah, lead screws.
I've not slept and my brain is mushier than usual.
Any mushier and it will be seeping out of my ears.......
I have the same issue, I think it's something to do with age, or I've stared at too many pretty ladies (not that that's even remotely possible in my town, there's an obesity endemic).
Size 46 (women's size) lycra gym shorts (that's a slim lady in Lithgow) and a sports bra that could launch two space shuttles at once seem to be classic "I'm going to the shops" wear.
I don't remember any such problem when I was young.
End of rant!
In all seriousness my employment from leaving school for the first 5+ years of my working life did involve my face 2 inches from a CRT TV screen while my hand was blindly making adjustments inside the cabinet (you soon remember where not to touch, especially with live chassis models ). CRT picture tubes emit X-Ray radiation and I'm sure that's had a bearing on my vision
I've looked into acrylic sheet sizes. I'm not in a position to drag a trailer down to Sydney to pick up standard 1200 x 2400 sheets but a standard cut size is 4 off 900 x 600 and from memory 2 off 600 x 600 pieces. The 900 x 600 I will cut down in half to 450 x 600 which will fit what I primarily want to do with only minimal scrap.
My primary use will be making light guide boards to light up canvas prints from behind. I'll also be selling various prints once I'm done with the machine and have enough experience.
Therefore I've decided I need to make a machine capable of taking 900 x 600 sheets. I'll also be building a little redundancy into the machine with the capacity to add a second laser tube, power supply and beam combiner to increase capacity (along with necessary electronics).
I have no intentions of cutting/engraving timber, it doesn't interest me though I guess if I have the capacity to do so I never know what I could end up doing.
Now I have to look into linear rails and I'm guessing I need them a little larger than my total sheet capacity. I'm thinking 1 metre for the laser head movement and a 700 odd linear rail either side to give the other rail (on whichever axis is which) smooth, even travel in and out.
Neville what do you use for air assist?
Is it a stand alone compressor built into the machine (small air pump)?
I need to look into air assist and cooling too. I recently gave away a portable air conditioner I could have used to chill the water and knocked back a water chiller which takes the big bottles. I had no need of either then (spare air con unit I was given just after I'd bought one and never used).
Now I have to look into linear rails and I'm guessing I need them a little larger than my total sheet capacity. I'm thinking 1 metre for the laser head movement and a 700 odd linear rail either side to give the other rail (on whichever axis is which) smooth, even travel in and out.
Neville what do you use for air assist?
Is it a stand alone compressor built into the machine (small air pump)?
I need to look into air assist and cooling too. I recently gave away a portable air conditioner I could have used to chill the water and knocked back a water chiller which takes the big bottles. I had no need of either then (spare air con unit I was given just after I'd bought one and never used).
That's why I never throw anything away! (It's also the reason my 150sq. m. shed and its' mezzanine are full...)
I have a smallish pump sending air to the head. It's a bit awkward to get at under the body but looks like a tyre inflator on steroids, or an industrial fish tank aerator maybe.
Fumes as mentioned are removed by a cycloidal extractor to the outside.
For the frame/bed, if I was building your set up, I wouldn't go past this one:
Thanks gentlemen!
I don't have 3D printer capabilities and am not a fan of plastics for making stuff and was looking at some nice linear rails for a reasonable cost from an Aussie online place. If I wasn't so lazy and got outside while the sun is out today I could start welding up the stand for the milling machine I bought my son and that gives us the capacity to mill bits and pieces we'll want or need. It's not CNC but that will eventually be in the works. I ran out of argon shield gas, still have straight argon for the TIG I forgot how to weld with but I have a gasless spool here somewhere for the MIG, I can also use the arc welder, I bought 40x40 square hollow section with 4mm wall thickness for the stand. I have to get to the doc's in a couple of hours, no point in starting anything now and by the time I get home it will be too late to start I'm guessing.
Tomorrow.......
Cooling I have a nice rear refrigerator coil and smaller radiator (possibly out a a stripped chest freezer) here. Winter just running straight water through the big unit from the old fridge hanging externally on the wall of the shed would probably be sufficient but I will invest in a chiller of some description or strip the still new chest freezer I bought for an emergency (to freeze water bottles) when my old Kelvinator gave up the ghost until I got the cash for a new fridge. We don't use it for anything.
I also have a lot of Peltier coolers we play with and can mill a block (see comment about stand).
Neville you mentioned your machine is running belts. What type of linear rails does it use?
I'm stuck between the round bar type and the flat runner. I know the round bars are better for vertical but I won't need vertical slides.
I'll have to make a decision soon to get started on a frame before winter hits. I don't like welding in my back yard in winter, especially not if I have to use the MIG or TIG with gas (I'm out of gas for the MIG and TIG gas straight Argon isn't suitable), probably go gas-less but I'm not sure how that is in the wind. I should imagine it's fine since shielding gas isn't getting blown away. I haven't used gas-less wire much in the past.
Until I get the rails I can't design the frame.
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