Help me get started to auto guide...please - Page 2

xelasnave · #21 10-09-2017, 01:13 PM

I only have two usb ports on the lappy. One has a mouse which I can replace with a wireless one but I think I may need more than two ports.

I think you can get a box with four usb ports..well I have an old one usb 2 that has four ports... so there would be something around..but I recall reading that one should avoid such.. Any thoughts?

But I think I will need a port for the imaging camera, a port for the guide camera, and one for the focuser and later if I get a zwo 16 a filter wheel control.

Alex

Alex

xelasnave · #22 10-09-2017, 02:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Merlin66

Alex,
One step at a time....
Get the mount and guiding working for you.....
then you can consider the move to EQMod - you'll need a planetarium software like CdC as a "front end"
Note: successful guiding has nothing to do with EQmod....

Well I managed to download the software and CdC I only now noticed your post.

Anyways they are there now.

Thanks again

Alex

Merlin66 (Ken) · #23 10-09-2017, 03:01 PM

Alex,
Yes, to reduce the cable clutter I use a powered 6 port USB hub mounted on the telescope pier and one USB back to the PC.
(Note: I only use USB2 equipment on this hub - I've no experience with USB3 hubs)
With CdC and EQmod - you can set the telescope connection in CdC as "EQMOD_SIM.telescope" and practise moving and slewing the Sim telescope around...
(To set the connection to the scope as ASCOM - Telescope/General/Settings tick the ASCOM button and save)

Merlin66 (Ken) · #24 10-09-2017, 03:17 PM

Alex,
Re USB connectors....
Refer #2 Image
The cream coloured cable has a RJ 12 (six pin) connector at one end and the Serial at the other.... The Black serial/USB adaptor has a USB socket on the body (usually fitted with a USB cable) and accepts Serial at the other end of the body.

I was incorrect....

This cable arrangement is ONLY used to allow the PC to talk to the mount handcontroller (when set to PC Direct) for EQMOD. It plugs into the RJ12 socket on the handcontroller. (Other's will tell you a EQMod DIR module direct to the mount can do the same job....)

OK, back to guiding.
The USB connector from the camera should be plugged into the PC and the ST-4 cable connected between the camera and the mount guide port. That's it.

xelasnave · #25 10-09-2017, 06:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Merlin66

OK, back to guiding.
The USB connector from the camera should be plugged into the PC and the ST-4 cable connected between the camera and the mount guide port. That's it.

Thanks for all of that,
My pin has a count of nine 9 pins, but I dont use that now? only the link from the camera to the auto guider port on the mount...this will give me auto guide ? I like to move the scope manually to an object so if I was to image something I would probably balance the scope to work well in an area where ti performs very well...but moving it around locally will be neat.
I think I need to pull the mount down it needed an oil change before I started trying to set up..
That sharp cap is interesting.
I am very surprised the view one gets thru this little guide scope.

And..well I think this is funny but a cool project..You build a little observatory around a guide scope with a nice little camera like the little one on it..so it works..but a novelty ..well to me... with a little mount and a little pier a dome that houses such a small guide scope set up...a model for the coffee table .. and the thinking more you could fit a 80mm in a very small dome...which could be remote..

Anywyas I just need to get the current things fixed, rather working the auto guide ..Maybe I had it on last night???I had the camera connected to the mount and the camera connected to the lap top..thats all from what I gather to get started, particularly as I like to drag the scope around.
The stars vanashed at a critical stage if that is all to get started..I went thru the phd easy steps and could get stars on screen..is that all to start or have I got it wrong and still need something else...for now.

.. but I thought building such a model would be a good way of taking away my obsession with astronomy at the moment. The dome could be made of cardboard and resin ..verry strong and cute done well.
.
I have requested a mate help me pick up the ply for the box one that I am actually building. I need to check it will fit again cause I took the original measure meants with a six inch there..certaily will need a different roof be cause pier may need to be higher than originally planned...mm anyways.

Thanks again.

Alex

LewisM · #26 10-09-2017, 06:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xelasnave

Sorry Lewis I purchased a new one from Bintel.

Well only sorry that I could not take yours off your hands but very happy dealing with Bintel.

My reasoning was if I have problems with it or anything I can call down and get help
.
I like dealing with Michael who has some links with Tabulam.
And I was in a buying frenzy

Alex

All good Alex - I am keeping it for now - I like redundancy in case something goes wrong. And it is still under Bintel warranty too which is good.

Good cameras - pretty close to a Lodestar in performance.

Merlin66 (Ken) · #27 10-09-2017, 06:26 PM

Yes, the ST-4 cable does it all....
Moving the scope/mount by hand has nothing to do with guiding....
The camera is connected to the PC via the USB cable.

Merlin66 (Ken) · #28 10-09-2017, 06:27 PM

Lewis,
I use the Lodestar...
There's nothing in the same league.

LewisM · #29 10-09-2017, 06:53 PM

I know Ken - so do I (use Lodestar). The ASI120MM is my backup in case the Lodestar cable breaks (I have the old model). The ASI120 is not too bad really - no, it is not as good as a Lodestar, but it's a LOT better than the QHY offerings.

Reminds me to buy a spare Lodestar cable from Peter Tan.

xelasnave · #30 10-09-2017, 09:02 PM

Happy days I am guiding even with the mount far from perfect but guiding holds it in place ..trying different settings but its great.
Thanks all who helped.
My first experience years ago put me off but now it all seems so simple.
Alex
Alex

xelasnave · #31 10-09-2017, 09:21 PM

Back lash clearing failed star did not move enough...that's got to be good.
Alex

kens (Ken) · #32 10-09-2017, 11:05 PM

So now you are calibrating in PHD2. This needs to complete successfully before you can start guiding. Best thing to do now is to attach your guide log. It will be in Documents/PHD2. There are two types of logs: the Guide log and a Debug log. The guide log is smaller and easier to analyse. The alternative is to ask a hundred questions that are all answered in the log.

xelasnave · #33 11-09-2017, 11:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kens

So now you are calibrating in PHD2. This needs to complete successfully before you can start guiding. Best thing to do now is to attach your guide log. It will be in Documents/PHD2. There are two types of logs: the Guide log and a Debug log. The guide log is smaller and easier to analyse. The alternative is to ask a hundred questions that are all answered in the log.

Thanks Kens.
I found following the graph interesting.
I adjusted settings and even with the mount poorly aligned it was "only" jumping around 2" either side of the center line.
I dont know what the thing can get down to but I expect a better align and a mount maintenance will improve that range.

I am so happy to have got it going...simple in retrospect.
I fell victim to over thinking the situation and a belief that I would never get there so it seems that I have done something beyond me...usually I am confident but all the material available overwhelmed me ...

Fortunately everything has presented small problems that I have solved with nothing bringing things to a halt.

So I happily captured some stars, dont even know which ones but did some short exposures (30 seconds ) and most happy with the ease of excecution. Stacked them to get to know deepskystacker... but next I need a processing program.

alex

kens (Ken) · #34 11-09-2017, 01:53 PM

For processing I settled on Startools. Reasonably priced, built here in oz and well supported by Ivo, and you can either just use the default settings or try to act the pro.
2" Sounds ok for now. I wouldn't start fiddling till you have a few more sessions under your belt. Last one might have been lucky, unlucky or typical. Once you get a feel for what's typical you can think about tweaking the settings.

xelasnave · #35 11-09-2017, 05:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kens

For processing I settled on Startools. Reasonably priced, built here in oz and well supported by Ivo, and you can either just use the default settings or try to act the pro.
2" Sounds ok for now. I wouldn't start fiddling till you have a few more sessions under your belt. Last one might have been lucky, unlucky or typical. Once you get a feel for what's typical you can think about tweaking the settings.

Interesting you should suggest Star Tools I downloaded a trail version today and been on utube where I found a laid back guy showing how easy it was...

I should pull down the mount but I just want to drive.

And I havent even bothered about collminating the new scope still so much to do. Must get a proper tool for the job.

I will try and sort out the mount.... its not making grinding noises but its past service...

what is the magic number for movement...0?...I bet the next " is probably hard won but after that $25,000 mounts.
Alex

baileys2611 (Simon Bailey) · #36 12-09-2017, 05:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LewisM

I know Ken - so do I (use Lodestar). The ASI120MM is my backup in case the Lodestar cable breaks (I have the old model). The ASI120 is not too bad really - no, it is not as good as a Lodestar, but it's a LOT better than the QHY offerings.

Reminds me to buy a spare Lodestar cable from Peter Tan.

Hey Lewis - is a Lodestar better than a SBIG ST-i?

xelasnave · #37 15-09-2017, 02:34 PM

The next night the indicators were off the chart, I thought it was near perfect when I had my first run and played with adjustements...even if the mount was off the guiding went great......then the thing went wild so I pulled it down last night. it seems a screw holding a cog on the worm drive shaft was slipping so I hope that was all there was to the crazy spell..maybe that is why ra was playing up..yeh!

Looks ok everything was clean the lite oil I put instead of grease seemed to have worked as there was still a nice film over everything... a bit of discolouration on gears which would be a dust build up so cleaned that off and relubricated...anyways I will give it a run and see if its works.

alex

glend (Glen) · #38 15-09-2017, 02:57 PM

The QE of the Lodestar and the ASI120MM are nearly identical. The ASI120MM is 75% and i think the Lodestar x2 is 77%, not really a relevant difference given the price difference, imho.

Merlin66 (Ken) · #39 15-09-2017, 03:14 PM

Glen,
Pixel size....

Simon,
I use the Lodestar cable "clamp" from TS....never let me down in the past six years or so.
https://www.teleskop-express.de/shop...onnectors.html

May be cheaper than a new cable...

xelasnave · #40 16-09-2017, 04:45 PM

I have noticed a bit of " play" in DEC which sounds like movevement in the straight cut gears.
I have not noticed it before, it may have been there, but I can't think why it should be so. Is it what is called back lash.

Put everything back and with luck on my side polar seemed perfect.
Only got one shot before the sky went misty ...
May pull down DEC and have a look..

Alex