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  #41  
Old 15-09-2009, 01:39 PM
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gregbradley
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I removed the primary from my RCOS 12.5 inch once and cleaned it and refitted it and recollimated it. It wasn't that hard.

If you haven't touched the secondary then it consists of:

1. Aligning the primary and secondary index marks (mine had a paint mark on the side of the primary and secondary so you rotate the primary's mark to line up with the secondary's mark.

2. You can do something as simple as a plastic cap with a hole in the centre that fits in the visual back. Now line up the spider cross so that the secondary and primary form concentric circles.

3. I used a Tak collimation scope here to get this alignment very accurate.

4. Final tweak using a star (I didn't do much here as it was pretty close and small adjustments made a pretty large difference.).

Also following a thread on another RC site (A&M RCs) they flocked the secondary mirror light shroud to stop unwanted reflections from bright stars just outside the range of the image.

You can also download a free trial of CCD Inspector which has a live collimation tool to get it exact using a CCD camera.

As far as shims etc go I presume they were put there to ensure the primary was square to the tube. Perhaps the back of the mirror is not
even and so it needed shimming. So put it in and adjust the shims so it is stable and appears square perhaps a cheap laser collimator may be helpful there too.

I imagine the shims also help put the collimation adjustment into the correct range of the adjustment screws in the case where it is quite a ways off.

Perhaps this helps.

Collimation isn't really that difficult, you just need a set of instructions.
Try the above and see how you go.

There was also the link I posted to the RCOS collimation instructions. They were the ones I used. When you get up to the point where you need a Tak collimating scope perhaps you can subsitute a cheap laser collimator. It saved my bacon when collimating a fast F4 200mm Vixen that was difficult to collimate before I used the cheapie Antares laser collimator from Scope Stuff (www.scopestuff.com).

You know there's no way around it for any RC or compound scope owner, learning how to collimate is a basic skill that you're going to have to confront learning at some point as the fact is compound scopes collimation will not always hold, especially if you travel with it. Admittedly adjusting it from parts is going to be the hardest.


Greg.

Last edited by gregbradley; 17-09-2009 at 07:30 AM.
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  #42  
Old 15-09-2009, 03:11 PM
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pmrid (Peter)
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Greg, that's extremely good of you. Allow me to thank you. I will see how those suggestions pan out over the next few nights.
Peter
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  #43  
Old 15-09-2009, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregbradley View Post

You can also download a free trial of CCD Inspector which has a live collimation tool to get it exact using a CCD camera.
I'm dubious about the effectiveness of CCD Inspector as a collimation tool.
I use it to monitor FWHM for luminance imaging. I find the collimation value can vary 50-100% from exposure to exposure which suggests the procedure is seeing dependent.

Steven
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  #44  
Old 15-09-2009, 05:07 PM
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Having thought on this for a while and read through the thread again I am inclined to think that you can sort this collimation as Greg has suggested. Some time ago I came across a collimation PDf for an RCOS. A chap did exactly what Greg did and we all will at some point to clean the mirror. The adjustment screws are there on the back and it would be unreasonable not to expect the mirror would need cleaning one day.

My suggestion is this:

Consider buying a tak collimation scope or borrowing one. A chap I know here in SA might loan me one when I need to do mine, however I think I need one myself; there might be someone in your neck of the woods that has one too. It's all part of owning an RC. Take your time and pull the scope apart again. This time just inspect the entire mirror bottom. Look for registration marks, there is likely to be some and take a bit of look at the secondary but don't take it out of the tube. Just look for the same marks as Greg suggested. You should also take a look around for the other mystery shim. It might still be there or make sure you seated everything correctly on the first reassemble. You might have misaligned something and hence the reason for the wobble. I am inclined to think that this is the likely cause of the wobble, but I am not there. Once you have it altogether again use a Cheshire and look for alignment. I have looked through the back of my OTA with this and noted it was perfectly aligned and this would be a good tool to have too. If you have not touched the bottom screws don't unless you really have no other option but to move them. These screws should be considered as being your base line. Rotate the mirror until your secondary is centered perfectly if you cannot find any alignment marks. If there is alignment marks use the shims to center the secondary. This is going to take some time and you need to work on a kitchen table or somewhere comfortable. Once you have it all centered then prepare for a star collimation on a clear night.

It might not suit everyone but try to keep this in mind. Collimation is often required for folded optics. It is a skill that anyone can learn and when you get this sorted you will have a sense of accomplishment.

For people who feel it is necessary to make the thread about blame, please bear in mind that any folded telescope with optics exposed to the open will require the mirror being removed at least a few times in its life time. All RCOS telescopes have front and rear collimation screws as does the GSO from what I can gather. If the factory got it into collimation before then so can the average amateur. This is a hobby where you need to maintain equipment and adjust it if necessary. It is also a hobby that requires patience most of the time. Something we can all learn more of most of the time.

Peter this is achievable and you can do it. I would ask you post images of the entire back of the OTA disassembled. It could help us find the marks and help you. I would also urge you to contact a large astro society. ASSA holds collimation clinics and has lots of guys who know how to put equipment back together again, we even have a few opticians; maybe your society does too. We did this for years before commercial telescopes were available, we all made telescopes and pulled them apart and put them back together. If you lived near me I would come and take a look myself. I am not afraid to pull apart equipment and put it back together.

Post those images thanks.
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  #45  
Old 15-09-2009, 05:21 PM
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Paul, I am indebted to you and other contributors who have proffered some practical advice - all of which I receive in the spirit in which it is given. Thank you.
Peter
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  #46  
Old 15-09-2009, 05:26 PM
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Some pics would help Pete.
You can do it !
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  #47  
Old 17-09-2009, 07:34 AM
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Here's a link to a thread in Cloudynights where a guy describes some of the steps he took to collimate his AT8RC.

http://www.cloudynights.com/ubbthrea.../o/all/fpart/1

You could also contact him for further advice.

Cheers,

Greg.
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  #48  
Old 04-01-2010, 12:51 AM
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catseyeman (Jim Fly)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doomsayer View Post
...I have found that the combination of a Catseye 2" autocollimator, 2" sight tube and a 2" laser works really well for RC collimation

guy
I read this as you use a reference spot placed on the "Secondary" for a visual queue to generate the autocollimator reflections. Is that correct?
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