RAW files conversion to Video

[multiweb (Marc)]

I though I'd start this thread to gather some intel on video conversion that also might help others in the process. I've been shooting a lot of (cloudy) sunsets lately practicing timelapses for the day it gets clear. I now shoot in RAW files. My question is what do you guys do to convert to video. I'd be interested to hear different approaches.

The target ultimately will be YouTube or Vimeo or Smugsmug but the source before the final encoding has to be the best quality, resolution and color depth you can get. This can be achieved in a variety of software packages with many different encoders. Here's what's working for me so far, correct me if I'm wrong.

1_ I shoot RAW at the best resolution/quality the camera will allow.

2_ I do a quick pass on the RAW files to lower the blackpoint, tweak saturations, levels, lens correction if necessary then export the lot to JPEG files with the same native resolution. Nothing dramatic. I save JPEG because TIFF files just get too big. The images are typically 4592 x 2576px true color so 24bit by the time you get from RAW to JPEG.

3_ I then load the sequence in Premiere or other package. The sequence resolution is typically 1440 x 1080px. Square pixels which is HDV 1080i, your typical plasma display.

I don't use sound yet but you can sample up to 48kHz.

4_ I use a codec named H.264 which is pretty popular for high definition output. There's a variety of flavours to export to YouTube, Vimeo, Tivo, etc... Most digital output formats go to NTSC so ~30fps. I don't use frame blending as I found it often trails the stars in between frames.

The file output is an *.mp4 (MPEG-4). I've found that it will also play as FLV or F4V file but with horrible pixelation depending on which player you use. That's pretty much all I've got so far.

Looking forward to hear what others do, tips and trick etc...

[multiweb (Marc)]

Wow, judging by the number of reply did I confuse everybody with my question(s)? Anybody's got settings that work fine or how to they'd like to share? For sure there are a lot fo you guys doing time lapses. Pretty new to it and trying to see if there are easier ways.

[gregbradley]

If you shoot in RAW and at max resolution and for 4 hours wouldn't that be too large for CF cards? You can get a 128gb San Disk. I don't know.

The idea of shooting RAW is so you can do a batch processing on the images correcting various things as you mentioned?

Possibly more important than that is having the right lens/camera setup.

Some of Alex's are Nikon 14-24 at F2.8 (I assume at 14mm) and ISO3200. Nikon D700 which is about 12mp. So the files would be "manageable".

I am looking to do some of this as well so I am interested in the replies you get.

The D800 has a time lapse done in camera. I am not sure how good that would be. It is part of the video capability and you can set the exposure time and gap. That's HD output. Video is shot at high rez and downsampled to HD quality I think (not 100$ sure).

Greg.

[DavidTrap (David)]

Mark - am only just experimenting with time lapses myself.

I tried to do a raw run recently, but my memory card died permanently... Not sure if it was the camera or the card (have been having problems with the camera).

I had planned to use a piece of software LRTimelapse that interfaces with Lightroom - looks very interesting and lots of tips on the website and forum.

I did a JPEG run last night that I will hopefully fiddle with this afternoon. Will try the camera with a few JPEG runs with a smaller sacrificial memory card before trying a RAW one again with a larger card.

I think RAW may have advantages, but if I shoot RAW with my new camera, the resulting data will kill me in post processing (40Mb files x 1000+ shots a night = way too much data)

Cheers

DT

[multiweb (Marc)]

Hi Greg, I have a 32GB card in the NEX-5. You can get bigger ones now. Laptop tethering is another possibility. You save each shot to the laptop and the camera is linked via USB for the duration of the shootout. It works fine with the *istD. Saving the files is very slow though.
I shoot RAW (ARW in SONY file format) because JPEG clip the black point badly. The only way to get it back is to shoot RAW then lower it. What I'm interested in is the transfer from RAW, JPEG or whatever surce format for still pictures into a video format. I wasn't aware the high end cameras handled timelapses natively. I guess they shoot video so there must be some kind of on board storage and codec at work.

[multiweb (Marc)]

Originally Posted by DavidTrap

I think RAW may have advantages, but if I shoot RAW with my new camera, the resulting data will kill me in post processing (40Mb files x 1000+ shots a night = way too much data)

Hi David, the first step I use is to cull the data. Camera raw is very good for this. You modify one file then develop the rest of the data with the same settings and save to TIFF or Max quality JPEG on disk. RAW gives you the full dynamic range and you're less likely to clip your data so if you can, it's best to use RAW at the source.

[DavidTrap (David)]

Just rendering my first timelapse with LRTimelapse - very easy to use with video tutorials.

It seems to work quite well with JPEGs - if you're familiar with Lightroom, it's straightforward.

Will let you know how it goes!

DT

[DavidTrap (David)]

Here 'tis.

Uninspiring, but have proved the system works!

And a quick one of Orion with the mount moving in Azimuth. 20sec exposures at ISO1600, F2.8 at 24mm focal length.

DT

[multiweb (Marc)]

That's pretty cool. I checked LRTimelapse on YouTube. It's pretty good. I used Premiere/AE as I already use them from work and I'm familiar with both softwares.

What were your camera setttings during the transition to dark. Did you set aperture/exp time to automatic or a set value?

Also how CPU intensive is your video encoding. I found that to do HD on my I7 I had to replace the stock CPU fan with a water cooled H60. I peaked at 75c at 100% load with the stock cooler. The H60 keeps it down to 60c.

[RickS (Rick)]

Interesting thread, thanks guys. I have a collection of raw aurora images that I plan to convert to a timelapse when I get home. Thanks particularly for the pointer to LRTimeLapse, David. If I learn anything useful when I start processing I will post a note here.

Cheers,
Rick.

[DavidTrap (David)]

Originally Posted by multiweb

That's pretty cool. I checked LRTimelapse on YouTube. It's pretty good. I used Premiere/AE as I already use them from work and I'm familiar with both softwares.

What were your camera setttings during the transition to dark. Did you set aperture/exp time to automatic or a set value?

Also how CPU intensive is your video encoding. I found that to do HD on my I7 I had to replace the stock CPU fan with a water cooled H60. I peaked at 75c at 100% load with the stock cooler. The H60 keeps it down to 60c.

I shot this as medium quality JPEGs. Aperture priority, F6.3 and Auto ISO. I chose that f-stop so it wouldn't burn out the image while the sun was still above the horizon. The auto ISO was set to maintain a minimum shutter speed of 1sec - once the ISO has maxed out it then lengthens the exposure. I could open the aperture as it darkens. I haven't done a transition to full nighttime yet so not sure how it performs with that, eg will it go to a consistent 20sec exposure. I'm fairly sure I'll have to swap to manual exposure once twilight has passed.

Video encoding wasn't too bad. I just used export to video in Lightroom. 720p for 200 frames took <5mins.

Rick - watch his tutorial video. Explains the basics very well. Happy to help if I can.

DT

[multiweb (Marc)]

Originally Posted by DavidTrap

I haven't done a transition to full nighttime yet so not sure how it performs with that, eg will it go to a consistent 20sec exposure.

I did a test last week on automatic (all) and as the subs increase in time the video speeds up as a result. I think this can be worked out in the processing. But the automatic mode makes the video flicker as well. There is also a clear step down as the lens F stop decreases twice in the series.

[DavidTrap (David)]

The deflicker routine takes care of the flicker. Flicker exists because of small variations in aperture and shutter speed between exposures, ie 1/125 isn't always exactly 1/125.

It looks at the brightness of all your images and ensures a smooth transition.

As to things speeding up, were you allowing enough delay between exposures - if I only allow a second, it skips some exposures.

DT

[multiweb (Marc)]

Originally Posted by DavidTrap

As to things speeding up, were you allowing enough delay between exposures - if I only allow a second, it skips some exposures.

The first hour the subs were 1/250s and the gap 10s. By the end the subs were 30s so well over the gap time. I'll have to experiment again next time. Lots to learn.

[troypiggo (Troy)]

Just came across this thread. I used LRTimelapse for my this. Not particularly good, more of a learning exercise for me. Very simple after a quick watch of the basic tutorial. I use Lightroom a lot. All shot in RAW. Memory card (16GB) did fill up, but that's my fault because I forgot to wipe it before shooting.

Everything is done in LRTL and LR only, no Premiere or other video software. Haven't added sound yet, but think you can do that in LR, basic anyway.

Pretty sure it's 1080p, H.264, 24fps etc.

[mswhin63 (Malcolm)]

I use VirualDub for video now, although I have only tested it with BMP. Not sure what other images are usable but I believe it is limited.

Prior to that I was using Power Director DVD which I still use occasionally.

None can can RAW.

[DavidTrap (David)]

Hi Malcolm - I tried VirtualDub, but prefer to use LRTimelapse as it integrates with Lightroom that I use for my terrestrial photography.

The deflicker filter in VirtualDub worked very well on another test timelapse I shot.

DT

[mswhin63 (Malcolm)]

I will give it a go, thanks

[multiweb (Marc)]

Sounds like there are a few interesting programs to achieve a good result on a budget too. Did some more transition from light to dark last night and managed to lock the exposure time under 10s. Had to revert to manual and higher ISO for the dark but the timing looks consistent. Is there a way to lock exposure time and only vary aperture and ISO automatically?

[troypiggo (Troy)]

I wouldn't vary aperture at all. Should just be able to jump the ISO up. Why are you restricting to 10s exposures? To stop star trailing when shooting on a tripod? If so, wouldn't have thought you need pinpoint stars in a video, you won't notice elongation after animation?