the colour is terrible - much needed processing skills lacking. Taken Sat night (9april2011). 127ed cooled canon 40D iso800
made up of 1s, 5s, 15s, 30s,60s, 120s, 300s, and 605s totalling around 5.5hrs. that CLS filter is killing me with colour issues, but its better than the light pollution
Lots of nice detail there.
Be blowed if I can work out how to get rid of that blue background without severely clipping the image.
I'm interested to see what solution you're given Dave.
Dave, I had one of those CLS filters and the colour cast drove me crazy as well. I had the clip in version and was able to shoot a custom white balance through a normal lens which solved the problem. I finally got an ldap filter which does not change colours.
Dave, I had one of those CLS filters and the colour cast drove me crazy as well. I had the clip in version and was able to shoot a custom white balance through a normal lens which solved the problem. I finally got an ldap filter which does not change colours.
Looks ok enough to me ....sure you could play around a bit like JJJ has done but in the end it is already in the ball park so just comes down to what colour adjustments you think look best
Looks ok enough to me ....sure you could play around a bit like JJJ has done but in the end it is already in the ball park so just comes down to what colour adjustments you think look best
Mike
thanks Mike but I am disappointed with the result. I am expecting far too much from the setup. I would have thought that the combination of short and longer exposures would have netted me some star colour retention and maybe some better colour balance than it has. Almost makes one want to buy a mono camera and do narrowband?
Well for 5h 30m there should be a better image but the more I look into this the more I hate it. When guiding the rms was going from 0.17 through to 0.46 and I think the seeing wasn’t very good. I focused the stars like normal but with the soft seeing - well it’s more apparent in the data when processing it - time wasted.
just had a play at lunch with a file - not liking it at all
Hough,like Mike said It still looks good dude! now,sometimes simple is best mate and especially for bright nebs...looks like too much contrast here,If you used DBE try not using It.
With color adjustments you'll find that slight adjustments have dramatic impact.
You've come a long way David so stop beating yourself up and enjoy and you'll smash It!
Hough,like Mike said It still looks good dude! now,sometimes simple is best mate and especially for bright nebs...looks like too much contrast here,If you used DBE try not using It.
With color adjustments you'll find that slight adjustments have dramatic impact.
You've come a long way David so stop beating yourself up and enjoy and you'll smash It!
no not DBE - i used the HDR script then added other files via staralign. might retry doing it without the script
Overall not a bad image but I can see why you are disappointed. Five and a half hours on a bright object is a big investment in time and energy.
I suggest you look at your basics here rather than fiddle with Photoshop tools. Some of those Photoshop tools are more remedies for problems with the imaging and are not a substitute for the gear being setup and working well.
In your case, following this thread, it seems that this filter you are using is causing all sorts of colour grief. So the custom colour balance suggestion sounds the best. If you are shooting in RAW mode you should be able to adjust that after the fact of shooting, if not then you are stuck with it. But taking a custom white balance shot is not hard and means the image that comes out of the camera is already well balanced requiring very little processing.
If you don't have one already - go to a Camera shop and get yourself an 18% grey card.
Then you shoot that at midday on a clear day with your filter on.
Then you set the menu for white balance to use that shot as the custom white balance. Its in the camera menus.
Now take a shot with your camera an notice the difference in the image it displays. It should be much closer to normal colour.
From what I have seen it appears this filter knocks down the reds and pumps up the magenta's causing a nasty and hard to correct imbalance.
thanks for the constructive input Greg - well and truely taken on board. here is a repro i have done from scratch. its not perfect but it has improved the colour a tad
It's quite good data. Have you tried pixel maths for your color balance prior to recombining. I do a lot of that and it always gets me in the ball park especially when blending different panels. I use CCD Stack but I assume Pixinsight or other programs would have a similar function. The idea is to pick a dark area and measure the INT MODE (in CCD Stack) then add the offset from the highest ADU channel.
Overall not a bad image but I can see why you are disappointed. Five and a half hours on a bright object is a big investment in time and energy.
I suggest you look at your basics here rather than fiddle with Photoshop tools. Some of those Photoshop tools are more remedies for problems with the imaging and are not a substitute for the gear being setup and working well.
In your case, following this thread, it seems that this filter you are using is causing all sorts of colour grief. So the custom colour balance suggestion sounds the best. If you are shooting in RAW mode you should be able to adjust that after the fact of shooting, if not then you are stuck with it. But taking a custom white balance shot is not hard and means the image that comes out of the camera is already well balanced requiring very little processing.
If you don't have one already - go to a Camera shop and get yourself an 18% grey card.
Then you shoot that at midday on a clear day with your filter on.
Then you set the menu for white balance to use that shot as the custom white balance. Its in the camera menus.
Now take a shot with your camera an notice the difference in the image it displays. It should be much closer to normal colour.
From what I have seen it appears this filter knocks down the reds and pumps up the magenta's causing a nasty and hard to correct imbalance.
It's quite good data. Have you tried pixel maths for your color balance prior to recombining. I do a lot of that and it always gets me in the ball park especially when blending different panels. I use CCD Stack but I assume Pixinsight or other programs would have a similar function. The idea is to pick a dark area and measure the INT MODE (in CCD Stack) then add the offset from the highest ADU channel.
not thAt smart Marc only know a few things and not all that well. tutorial on how to do this would be good.
not thAt smart Marc only know a few things and not all that well. tutorial on how to do this would be good.
Pretty simple really when you do it a couple of times. Measure the INT MODE in a dark part of your picture. In CCDStack you drag the mouse in a small dark area. That highlights the area (small square) and gives you a bunch of info about the underlying data. Let's say you end up with this:
RED 1282
GREEN 888
BLUE 613
You need to add 394 to the GREEN and 669 to the BLUE to get to 1282 in both (same as RED). Then you check your histogram and apply the same amount of stretching you have in the RED to the GREEN and BLUE. Then all you have to do is combine to color and that'll get you pretty close to start with.
thanks for the constructive input Greg - well and truely taken on board. here is a repro i have done from scratch. its not perfect but it has improved the colour a tad
Don't know if it is necessarily more accurate but I like this colour scheme, close to Malins famous keyhole colouring
- time wasted.
here is a repro i have done from scratch. its not perfect but it has improved the colour a tad
only know a few things and not all that well. tutorial on how to do this would be good.
