Hi All,
Thought this may be of interest, The First picture taken with my Canon EOS300D Modified + its original Filter (inserted in the light path) ,and without any filter, showing the increased Ha sensitivity, no DF removed, no processing except to reduce to 20% original size, Ill post the processsed results soon.
Pictures taken last night, both were a single 6 Min. Exp. at ISO-800 with an ED80 + MOGG Focal reducer, guided.
The difference in size is due to the change in position of the Focal Reducer with/without the filter.
regards........Jim
Last edited by FOOTPRINT; 31-01-2006 at 09:51 AM.
Reason: additional information added
Wow what a difference. Almost too much. As I'm considering getting the mod done on my camera I'm interested to see the result after processing, accepting of course that these are single shots.
Yes very nice... I have come somewhat attached to the blue bias of the non-modified 300d. And having just modified it I too am getting used to the difference. You certainly capture more detail in less exposure time with the mod.
Did you use an dedicated IR-cut filter in the mod'ed shots? My first impressions are that it is absolutely necessary to avid over-exposure in Red. I have attached a before and after shot of the Tarantula I did. The before shot was taken awhile back so it's not really a direct "on-the-night" comparison. I also used an IR-cut filter in the after shot. Withou it it was a mass of Red.. Way OTT.
Cheers
The damage is done, all these great results have spurred me to bite the bullet and order a modded 350D from Hutech (one with glass filter to allow IR imaging too)
Scott
IR cut filter... Probably US$100 for a 2" Baader UV/IR cut. That's all you really need to start with a modified 300D.
But then if you use a UHCS filter like Tornado33 then you won't need the IR one.
Cheers
Hi All,
Thanks for all the comments, and ROBBY I havent found that the BAADER IR/UV Cut Filter does lessen the Overall Red effect (I wish it did) but the BAADER "Fringe Killer" almost makes an Acromat into an Apo Scope (pictures posted elesewhere this forum) Im going to try CWB + Filters this might help, bugs me the Red overkill, like ngc1977 should be blue but it comes out red no matter what, you really removed the Red from the Tarantula, but shouldent it be quite red anyway, howver point taken, Did you use CWB.
I'm about to self-modify my camera, especially after seeing the increased Ha in your Eta C images - wow!
Could I ask, what did you replace the original Canon sensor filter with ? Or did you just leave the sensor filterless?
I intended on using a 2" baader Ir-Uv cut filter in the 2" focuser but do I need a clear filter in front of the sensor ? For normal photography I was going to purchase a screw-on lens X-NITE CC1 filter.
Oops maybe this should be a discussion for another forum...
All you need to know is here http://ghonis2.ho8.com/rebelmod.html
I used the glass mentioned here from Edmund Scientific. Don't also forget the shims that are added to preserve autofocus.
Cheers
Paul, yes you need a glass of some sort of same thickness as the original, failing that, use the shims as Robby mentions, with the edmund glass. that way Autofocus and manual viewfinder focus will still be accurate.
Hi
[IMG]http://www.iceinspace.com.au/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=9156&st c=1
Hope u dont mind, but I used curves Set Grey Point to neutralise colour balance and Gradient Xterminator (which can also neutralise colour bacance of sky background) to process the Eta Carina without the IR cut filter, what do u think
Paul, yes you need a glass of some sort of same thickness as the original, failing that, use the shims as Robby mentions, with the edmund glass. that way Autofocus and manual viewfinder focus will still be accurate.
Hi Paul,
If you modifiy your EOS300D, as suggested get the instructions from Gary Honis they are excellant (I used them to do my modificaton), suggest you get a tray with partitions, mark the partitions with each step, put the bits from the Camera in each bin as you remove them (makes it much easier if you get called away for a day or two, comes replacing them), The Filter is a cow of a thing to get out of its holder (best glue in the world holds it in) also be careful not to break the tabs off the Holder when you cut out the Filter, its easy to do, Be Very Careful replacing the Ribbon connectors (its easy to get them in the wrong position) and one of the clips that holds the (Blue one I think) ribbon connector from the CCD to body is very difficult to get back, yes use the Edmunds Scientific Glass, I dident bother with the spacers (too fiddley) and find the Autofocus works fine BUT DO FOLLOW GARY HONIS INSTRUCTIONS, I use the X-Nite filter on the Canon Lens for normal photography, It also works well, Testing various Uv/Ir Filers for Astrophotography, hope this helps.
cheers.........Jim
Last edited by FOOTPRINT; 03-02-2006 at 02:26 PM.
Reason: spelling
Hi Paul,
No thats not it, ill find the I.D. and let you know, A friend of mine is Brisbane got a sheet of the required glass, and has (I think) had it cut to size which comes out to 6 or so Canon size bits, Ill contact him see if he still has some for sale, ill let you know.
Just wondering, everything is red in shots taken with a modified DSLR. Is this a problem having to color balance everything so the stars are white again, etc..?
Hi Paul,
If you modifiy your EOS300D, as suggested get the instructions from Gary Honis they are excellant (I used them to do my modificaton), suggest you get a tray with partitions, mark the partitions with each step, put the bits from the Camera in each bin as you remove them (makes it much easier if you get called away for a day or two, comes replacing them), The Filter is a cow of a thing to get out of its holder (best glue in the world holds it in) also be careful not to break the tabs off the Holder when you cut out the Filter, its easy to do, Be Very Careful replacing the Ribbon connectors (its easy to get them in the wrong position) and one of the clips that holds the (Blue one I think) ribbon connector from the CCD to body is very difficult to get back, yes use the Edmunds Scientific Glass, I dident bother with the spacers (too fiddley) and find the Autofocus works fine BUT DO FOLLOW GARY HONIS INSTRUCTIONS, I use the X-Nite filter on the Canon Lens for normal photography, It also works well, Testing various Uv/Ir Filers for Astrophotography, hope this helps.
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