As some may know I have not been using the OAG on the QSI since I first tried it. I had several issues that just made guiding impossible.
With the completion of Thor's helmet I decided that I would nut this OAG problem out once and for all.
The initial problem was that the stars were like seagulls which made for bad guiding. I have since resolved this problem by getting an adapter made to suit the flattener and give me the correct distance from the flattener to the sensor, which in turn has made the guide stars round and of course flattened the field. One problem licked!
Next I had a focus problem for the OAG. I purchased a spacer from QSI, however I think when I first used it I had it the wrong way around. That made for odd shaped stars in each of the corners. I now have it in the correct orientation and the stars below show that things look better.
Last night I gave the OAG another try. Guiding was certainly better but still not perfect. I have to focus the stars better in the OAG and the primary camera was not well focused. I hurried this a bit. That said though, I can report that I did get better stars than I have previously and with a slight collimation adjustment everything looks a whole lot better.
That's a nice image Paul - good colour and detail in the nebula! What equipment (scope, etc) were you using ? Sounds like you are having fun with the setup / OAG - anyway, it wouldn't be as satisfying an achievement if it was all easy, would it !!
Thanks all, not an image that I reckon is fantastic, but the fact of getting the OAG working is the main thing and will mean I can go to 20 minute subs for my imaging purposes.
Ok now the scope I was using is the RC8". For guiding I was using the Star Shoot Autoguider on the OAG on the QSI583WSG unit.
The software I am using is PHD (not got MaximDL settings sorted yet but that will come).
James for focus I use the Bahtinov mask and for collimation I am using an out of focus star image taken in Maxim. Once collimation is fixed or close I use the mask for focus. I am quite particular normally about this. It takes several minutes to get it just right. Some people can use FWHM but I find that this can be a bit hit and miss. The lower the FWHM the sharper the focus, but the mask really shows what is going on.
David, sorting out flexure with my system has been a real pain. I had it completely sorted when I was using the 40D from Central DS but when I got the QSI things had to be sorted again. Not sure why as the weight was similar, so it has been a challenge to get it right and I still think there is more room for improvement, but this is a huge step in the right direction.
Wasyoungonce, my imaging camera is the QSI583. Exposure duration was 5 minutes subs in LRGB but it really needs 10 minute subs to get this image to shine. For one shot colour, please check out my site for exposure details taken with my 40D. I hope that helps you out.
Frank, getting an OAG working on long focus can be a little bit of a pain. In PHD I have the aggression set to 90%, 500 step calibration, min motion to 0.15, camera gain at 100% and 2.5 second exposures. I tend to think that focus is critical for guiding despite what Craig Stark says where the guide star can be slightly out of focus. My results are always better with a sharply focused guide star. Other may find differing results and I challenge them to show me that I might be wrong.
I hope that has answered everyones questions and if you want anymore help please ask and I hope I can answer. The more expert guys on OA guiding are more than welcome to contribute what they know.
Paul, at that FL, are you binning the guide cam?. At over 2m, I bin 3, much shorter exposures, works fine, but sightly out of focus, cause otherwise stars are a bit blocky. At bin 1 or 2, the stars are smoother, but guideing is more unstable due to extra noise with the same exposure times.
I found that slightly out of focus can indeed help, but it depends on the guide image scale. A single block star is rare but fine focused, its when it suddenly becomes 2 pixels it gets nasty, jumps all over the place and defocus is required, albiet at slightly reduced but smoother acuraccy overall. Oddly, a multipixel (shorter FL, or non binned) star can sometimes do with defocus too due to dancing pixels appearing and disappearing on the edges, moving the centriod.
Why does flexure require "sorting" again with the QSI?, doesnt it become irrelivant?.
Why do you need a spacer to adjust focus, cant you slide the guide cam up and down?, or, doesnt the QSI also have a focus adjusting ring?.
Fred PHD does not offer binning on the guide camera but I will use this when guiding in Maxim.
Flexure is a problem when guiding with a guide scope, not when using the QSI. I had trouble getting the settings right with whilst using the QSI's OAG so I wanted to get away from the problems of flexure that I had with the guide scope and that meant using the OAG, which was not working well with the settings I was originally using and given that clear sky is fleeting I went back to what I knew would work more or less. Yes flexure is irrelevant.
I had to get a spacer because the focus ring on the QSI would not go in far enough to gain focus on the RC8. It works fine on other scopes without the spacer but on this scope I needed to have the spacer so that the focus on the OAG was the same as the main sensor.
More neb there,and I like the way the core pops out, although some may find it somewhat unnatural. Low noise, and tight focussing/guiding though, excellent.
SOOO, PHD doesnt bin guide exposures he. Well here was I thinking its free, everyone uses and loves it, why do I bother with DL. But theres always a catch isnt there . No bin guiding is a show stopper for me. Goes to show afterall, you get for what you pay for
I understand that PHD does not have binning but doesn't the brain have a gama setting that can replicate this to an extent?
Frank
Not seen that in there Frank, perhaps the very latest version, but binning would be better still. I think the gamma/contrast control (perhaps that is what you were thinking of Frank??) in the main interface is just for cosmetic purposes . The setting of this does not affect the camera itself, it's just so you can see the stars. Taking this from Craig Stark's words on the PHD site.
Thanks Greg. Just part of the evolution of my DSO imaging. Might get it right one day. Might not either. That is the more likely of the two I reckon. At least with Planetary one usually settles on a system of capture and processing and usually sticks with it once you start obtaining great images. Not so with this DSO caper. It seems like a constant evolution. All bizzarly entertaining in a strange way and providing a certain satisfaction when you get more organized. Hmmm
I understand that PHD does not have binning but doesn't the brain have a gama setting that can replicate this to an extent?
Frank
Gamma settings is more for the user than it is for the software.. Gamma changes the brightness and contrast in order to help you see a star to use for guiding... However if the sensor has not adequately detected the star against the sky background, then there really is nothing that adjusting gamma can do about that.. Binning the guider can make the difference between the guider detecting a useable star, or giving you a blank image at long focal lengths.. Definitely worth while.
Paul - Welcome to the wonderful world of the OAG... Once you get it singing you will wonder how, or more to the point - Why, you ever lived without it... It might take some work to get it all running 100% however if this preliminary image is anything to go by, I dare say you'll have it humming along nicely in no time...
I don't think you can bin the Orion Starshoot autoguider with Maxim--at least I can't. I think binning depends on the camera hardware as well as the guiding software.
Geoff