I have used the EV-1 and moolight focusers on my mead LX200R and have a feather touch 10:1 micro focuser on the main mirror focus. I was not happy with the performance of the EV-1 and changed to the moonlight crayford....enough said. The moonlite crayfords are as solid as a brick and are great for AP in the correct configuration (mine has a stepper motor and is driven by the moonlite controller giving perfect repeatability) and will support very heavy loads without problems such as flex, tilt etc. I also have a 2 speed moonlight on my refractor and am very pleased with the smoothness and lifting capacity of the unit (rated to 3.5kg or there abouts). That said I imagine you would be equally happy with the feather touch and people really rave about their qualities. It really depends on your intended use.
I had a moonlite on my C11 and it was extremely good quality.. Mine was the DC motor version, a step down from Mark' model.. It was fantastic...
I've got a 2" FT on my APO at the moment, I'm having some issues with it and with my heavy camera setup, bit of sag..
The quality of the FT is pretty amazing, and it feels siillllky smooth.. but considering its not doing what I bought it to do, I will say I'm a little peeved with it...
I am primarily using my CPC1100 for visual but have been experiencing mirror movement at fine focus which is rather annoying so primarly the focuser would be to provide fine visual focus.
I also have a new Canon 5D Mark II so was looking for a focuser that could support that at prime focus as I am starting to get interested in Astrophotography.
The moonlite does look like a solid unit can the drive version be manually focussed?? Or does it rely on the hand crontroller if you have a drive?
Interesting to hear about the feathertouch. Is that drawtube sag??
Gee Alex, thats the first negative comment I have ever heard about the FT..... new owners cutting corners????. My imaging train must weigh at least 2kg and with the 2 speed moonlight on the refractor racked out close to 100mm (sweet spot) I still notice no tilt or sag. The draw tube for the LX200 is much shorter and I could swing off that. The moonlites are built like tanks but they are also very heavy which may cause balance problems and add extra strain on the mount.
I am primarily using my CPC1100 for visual but have been experiencing mirror movement at fine focus which is rather annoying so primarly the focuser would be to provide fine visual focus.
I also have a new Canon 5D Mark II so was looking for a focuser that could support that at prime focus as I am starting to get interested in Astrophotography.
The moonlite does look like a solid unit can the drive version be manually focussed?? Or does it rely on the hand crontroller if you have a drive?
Cheers
Once the motors are mounted the units cannot be focused manually. If you are mainly doing visual with the occassional snapshot then the 2 speed manual focuser will be more then you need. It will not correct mirror flop though and you will need to find a way to lock the primary (meade LX 200 tubes have this built in). You might also like to have a look at these.
I have one and it does work much better then the standard setup. If you decide to get the moonlite make sure the draw tube comes with a brass clamping ring (has three thumbscrews to attach diagonals, camera's etc) as the standard draw tube (single thumbscrew) is not good enough IMO.
I'll toss in my preference for the F/T, but take on board the comments made by Alex. Possibly it depends on the loads you have or think you will encounter.
In Alex's case, maybe a bigger F/T would be better. It would also be interesting to see the others handle his load(s) as well.
In my case I am supporting an SXVR-H16, and the SX CFW chocka full of filters, using the 2" F/T, same as Alex has, with no issues.
In respect of the motor/no motor, the F/T is a great setup. With the motor fitted you cannot focus manually (but then again, why would you?). two Allen head screws later and you have switched, I can do it in the dark) and the manual focus is all go. For imaging, the auto-focus using the motor is something to be experienced.
Gary
I am not getting mirror movement while slewing, it only seems to occur at fine focus so I am not sure what I am experiencing is mirror flop (or at least a bad case of it). However a mirror lock for a CPC1100 probably would not go astray. I have found the lock for the C14 but cant seem to locate one for the CPC1100 any pointers there??
All, thanks for the other comments, it looks like the JMI is out and it is now down to Moonlite or Feather Touch. Both look like sweet units.
The FT seems to offer more backfocus & drawtube travel options but I am a little concerned regarding Alex's comment.
Alex is yours a recent unit?? Or have there been further units/developments since then?
I am not getting mirror movement while slewing, it only seems to occur at fine focus so I am not sure what I am experiencing is mirror flop (or at least a bad case of it). However a mirror lock for a CPC1100 probably would not go astray. I have found the lock for the C14 but cant seem to locate one for the CPC1100 any pointers there??
I put a Moonlite on my C8 for almost exactly the same reasons. I rough focus with a Celestron Motofocus and fine focus with the Moolite.
The trick is to make the final focusing on the mirror turning the knob in a clockwise direction so the mirror is being pushed rather than pulled.
Then fine focus with the crayford.
It holds my DSLR or QHY8 without blinking an eyelid. The photos on Moonlite's site have it carrying a filter wheel and much bigger CCD than mine.
Also it can mount a focal reducer on the front of the drawtube so it is at a constant distance from the CCD.
Phil - Yep, Drawtube sag.. The drawtube is only extended 13mm of the possible ~65mm it can be exteneded, I've tightened up everything that can be tightened to no avail.. I can't seem to find where the movement is occurring.. I might contact FT and see if I can swap this one over, or at least check to see if its faulty...
My setup from the focuser back is OAG + QHY5 -> Televue 0.8x reducer -> Stainless steel 17.3mm extension -> 2" 7 position CFW fully loaded with filters - ST8300M ~~ All up about 3.3kgs. About 25cm in length.. Its a big load for a 2" focuser.
Essentially I'd like to have a 3" FT, but a 3" Focuser on an 80mm APO would be VERY hard to fit... I hate to say it but I fear my camera is too big for my scope! I could go back to a guide scope, lowering the weight, and the length of the setup.. But I do like the OAG.. makes life simple...
The FT is perhaps a month old.. so relatively new.
Not wanting to bury you in choices, but an electric FT is starting to look expensive and worrysome with Alexes experience. A 2" Optec TCS-F (takes 4.5 kg) and its 3 inch brother might be worth a look, and they have direct CPC1100 adaptor options. They also have a manual handbox for visual use. All the astro apps have drivers for them and some rate them "prefered choice" for accuracy, they are an industry standard. They also offer "absolute" positioning, Im not sure the FT does?.
I have the F/T motorised + the primary micro on my C8. I started to set this up for photography, but then decided not to & so I only use it for visual.
Can't fault the F/T gear.
I have all 2" equipment. EPs, Diagonals, Powermate, etc. Have had no issue at all with weight, although I don't have more than the visual gear in it.
I also found the people at Starlight Instruments extremely helpful with postage & invoicing.
Any information is appreciated. I like to put in a lot of research before buying.
This unit looks like some very serious kit. I am not sure that the $2000.00 US price tag fits my budget for a focuser though :-(
Cheers
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bassnut
Not wanting to bury you in choices, but an electric FT is starting to look expensive and worrysome with Alexes experience. A 2" Optec TCS-F (takes 4.5 kg) and its 3 inch brother might be worth a look, and they have direct CPC1100 adaptor options. They also have a manual handbox for visual use. All the astro apps have drivers for them and some rate them "prefered choice" for accuracy, they are an industry standard. They also offer "absolute" positioning, Im not sure the FT does?.
The 2" TCF-Si is $645USD plus the cost of the adapter for your scope which is below $100US..
Its cheaper than a 2" FT with the FT digital focus system and the telescope adapter.. Although more expensive than the moonlite with stepper motor... The TCF-Si would be better than the moonlite I think, going on the specifications in the literature alone... Continious temperature compensation would be nice thats for sure.. although Fred tells me calibrating it can be a right pain in the butt...
I might have to do a wider search then. The price list I looked at said over $1000.00 US for the 2 inch and $2000.00 US for the 3 inch.
Both the Moonlite and FT have native 3.25 inch attachment to the CPC1100 rear cell flange (although they do only have 2 inch draw tubes).
Where did you get your price from Alex?
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexN
The 2" TCF-Si is $645USD plus the cost of the adapter for your scope which is below $100US..
Its cheaper than a 2" FT with the FT digital focus system and the telescope adapter.. Although more expensive than the moonlite with stepper motor... The TCF-Si would be better than the moonlite I think, going on the specifications in the literature alone... Continious temperature compensation would be nice thats for sure.. although Fred tells me calibrating it can be a right pain in the butt...
Page 7, Celestron 3" thread to Optec 2400 mount for TCF-S 2" focuser $63USD
Page 8, TCF-Si ~ 675USD
You would also need the cable to plug it into a PC, which is on that list, but I don't remember the page number...
The TCF-S comes with the external box for control purposes, the TCF-Si can only be used via PC connection, there is no manual control
Its still a pricey setup. The moonlite being much cheaper, and for most setups I would imagine it would be more than adequate.. Only reason I'm harping on about the TCF-S is that its the first focuser I've seen at a reasonable price that claims to be able to handle the weight of my camera with ease.