Hi All,
Thought this might be of interest, M42 taken with the LX200-F10 using a Focal Reducer to F-6.3 (reflector) guided with the ED80/MX7c, 6 Min. Exp. DF removed ISO-800 with a Modded Canon EOS300D, to show the colour difference (more Ha- Red) than with an unmodded Camera , ill post (when I find it) a picture taken under the same conditions with the Camera before modification.
This picture is untouched as regards colour-contrast-etc. just DF removed, and Noiseware processed.
it never fails to amaze me the structure of the red clouds top left, almost 3d!!
I know guys take two shots, one short of the trap and long ones of the outer so they don't get a burnt out core, but surely (and bird may answer this) you can get the computer to run its eye over they image during the exposure of 6mins or so every 1 sec and any pixel that has reached max, then don't let the surrounding area of that pixel build up as quick??? either a gaussian bell curve radius around that star etc
If a pixel ie in the red cloud area has not reached maximum ie white, then let it keep building!
I am very very new to dso stuff, but a "dynamic" mask should be able to help during exposure time I would have thought.
Wow as colour blind as I am I can see the redness. Magic foto Jim I love looking at that "outer region" I never tire of seeing Orion fotos or visual it is a such wonderful object.
alex
Hi All,
Well thanks for all the comments, and yes ALEX its a fantastic DS subject, I note your pictures are coming on also (looked at AD this morning) but suggest more exposure time, ANDREW- yes I did the Mod. on the Canon, but touchy, the most difficult part was removing (cutting out) the Filter from its frame, also the ribbon connectors were difficult to re-insert, PAUL sorry I wouldent be game to Mod. anyone elses Camera, but if you do the Mod. either leave out the glass that replaces the filter, or make certain you use a non-reflective glass, C.S.- yes Digital Cameras have come a long way and one can get Fantastic Colour shots of DS objects, they require more exposure time, than a cooled Camera and DF removal is really necessary, I find it good for bright objects, but marginal on faint objects, a cooled version would be ideal (a cooled 6 Mp Camera costs $10,000), DAVIDPRETORIUS- Image processing is the Magic part of it all, im still learning, however with a good exposure of a bright object (not a lot of these) you dont require much processing.
Im posting a picture taken with the same setup, before the Camera was modified, with no processing outside of DF removal, and Noiseware speck removal, the Ha sensitivity difference is quite noticeable.
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@RB
