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Old 20-01-2009, 05:25 PM
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Quark (Trevor)
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First Piggyback attempt with 450D

Hi All,

I have no doubt that the Witches Head is very dim and requires heaps of subs, but it probably would also help to align the region centrally in the frame.

This is my first piggy back attempt with my 450D and thought I would try for the Witches Head, not being a modified camera and being a predominantly blue object I gave it a go but came up well short.

Couldn't believe how difficult it was to aim the camera at the particular region. I kept getting blinded by the LCD screen turning on and off as I went to look through the view finder, must be another way of doing this.

Used my 17-85mm EFS lens at 85mm, Images Plus Camera Control to focus the camera, seemed pretty easy to do.
Guided the scope with my DMK using IC Capture and Alls Reticle to guide on Rigel.

Took a couple of test exposures of 120 secs, just to try and work out where the camera was pointing and re aligned the camera to get what l assumed was Rigel into the field.

I ended up not having the alignment I required but now have images of the field in the immediate vicinity for next time.

So here is my first attempt, the field above Rigel.

This image was created from 14 x 300 second subs at ISO 800, 6 Darks, 16 Flats and 50 Bias frames. Would this be enough data to reolve The Witched Head?

This is the first time I have used Images Plus and followed along with the pertinent video tutorial to calibrate my images. I loaded my lights, darks, flats and bias frames and followed the tutorial instructions. When I realized I had the wrong field I didn't worry about further processing.

I am pleased with the shape of the stars but as I don't have a field flattener this image would look better cropped. I thought it best to present the whole image here, hopping some of you astro guru's will pick up any other problems that I am not aware of.

Could really do with some advice on aligning the camera when used for wide field piggy back imaging.

Regards
Trevor
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Old 20-01-2009, 05:56 PM
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AlexN
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Yes Trevor, you should easily have captured the witches head, even if it was faint, it would be there... I tend to think your pointing may have missed the target... 14x300sec should get it easy... even with an unmodified camera, 14x300sec would show the horsehead, which is predominently red (Ha).

I will say, the guiding looks great, and the focus also....
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Old 22-01-2009, 10:53 AM
TrevorW
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Trev,

turn off the view screen

Cheers
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Old 22-01-2009, 11:06 AM
Mighty_oz (Marcus)
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Lovely sharp pic, wish my tracking was as good !
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Old 22-01-2009, 04:52 PM
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Nope,you mist It Trev....better luck next time.
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  #6  
Old 22-01-2009, 05:13 PM
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Quark (Trevor)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrevorW View Post
Trev,

turn off the view screen

Cheers
Thanks Trevor,

Seems obvious, but I didn't realize I could shut it off. I have not had this camera very long and need to use it more to become familiar with what it can do. Will check it out.

Regards
Trevor
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Old 22-01-2009, 10:37 PM
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Matty P (Matt)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quark View Post
Thanks Trevor,

Seems obvious, but I didn't realize I could shut it off. I have not had this camera very long and need to use it more to become familiar with what it can do. Will check it out.

Regards
Trevor
I always turn the screen when taking exposures as I heard it can introduce added noise to the image. Don't know if it is true but it is now part of my routine with my 450D.

Also make sure you dim the screen brightness to its dimest setting when outside. Just to make sure it doesn't blind you when you need to use the screen.

It is too bad you missed the Witches Head. Your focus and guiding looks spot on though, well done.

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Old 23-01-2009, 07:17 PM
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AlexN
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Matt - That is true, as the LCD on the camera generates heat. Heat generates noise...
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Old 23-01-2009, 07:57 PM
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nice work.
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  #10  
Old 24-01-2009, 06:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quark View Post
Hi All,


Could really do with some advice on aligning the camera when used for wide field piggy back imaging.

Regards
Trevor
I had similar problems when I started..
Aligning camera is easy: just get the red dot finder (couple of bucks on ebay) and/or cheapest finder you can manage and mount it with camera together on some sort of adapter (I have both, when I use 200mm lens, more precise alignment is necessary).
All I need to do is check alignment on bright star every time before I start.

But then again, you are doing piggy-back.. so you already have a finder.

When I am preparing for session, I use CdC.. and the camera FOV could easily be entered into eyepiece/CCD dialog box...
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  #11  
Old 24-01-2009, 09:44 AM
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Quark (Trevor)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bojan View Post
I had similar problems when I started..
Aligning camera is easy: just get the red dot finder (couple of bucks on ebay) and/or cheapest finder you can manage and mount it with camera together on some sort of adapter (I have both, when I use 200mm lens, more precise alignment is necessary).
All I need to do is check alignment on bright star every time before I start.

But then again, you are doing piggy-back.. so you already have a finder.

When I am preparing for session, I use CdC.. and the camera FOV could easily be entered into eyepiece/CCD dialog box...
Thanks Bojan,

I took Trevor and Matts advice and turned of the LCD screen which allowed me to use the view finder. That worked for Rigel but obviously, I would still have a problem if there wasn't a mag 1 star in the frame.

I love your idea of mounting a red dot finder on the camera. Will look into that.

Thanks for the tip.
Regards
Trevor
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