This is my second attempt at the Orion Nebula after my first go at it a few weeks back.
I am much happier with this image compared to my first but I still think there is a lot of room for improvement. Focus could've been better and more subs would've really helped this image. I decided to use ICNR darks this time making it a little easier for myself.
I used 3 x 8 minute subs, 5 x 5 minute subs, 10 x 1 minute subs and 10 x 15 second subs all at ISO 400. ICNR Darks, Flats and Bias removed.
All seperately stacked in DSS and combined in PS using layer masks.
Very impressive Matty - especially (I gather) for one of your early attempts. Did you use the 450D at prime focus and guide with your 70 mm scope? (I have a friend who guides with his 8" SCT and shoots through an ED80).
Use of the range of exposure times has really helped capture the large dynamic range and bring out the colours.
What does DSS stand for (I think it's probably imaging software).
What does ICNR stand for? (something something noise reduction?)
Greg.
Thanks Greg,
Yes, this was taken with my 450D (unmodded). For astro work it is a great camera even unmodded. It performs really well and the live view function is a real live saver, helping getting the focus as perfect as possible everytime. It's lightweight and is a great camera for daytime use as well.
I'm wanting to get my 450D modded soon so my images will/should only improve.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hagar
Very nice Matt, Lots of detail, good colour, nice round stars and depth in the nebula.
I like it a lot.
Thanks Doug,
I'm glad you liked it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisM
Very impressive Matty - especially (I gather) for one of your early attempts. Did you use the 450D at prime focus and guide with your 70 mm scope? (I have a friend who guides with his 8" SCT and shoots through an ED80).
Use of the range of exposure times has really helped capture the large dynamic range and bring out the colours.
What does DSS stand for (I think it's probably imaging software).
Also, what focussing method do you use?
Keep up the good work,
Chris
Thanks Chris,
Once I purchase a new refractor, I use will sometimes use my C8 as a guidescope but for this image, I used my 70mm refractor as a guidescope.
DSS = Deep Sky Stacker. A program used for stacking multiple deep sky images.
For focusing, I use the camera Live View function which lets me focus in real time. The only drawback of this function is that you can only focus on bright stars but that isn't a problem.
Matt, Very nice indeed Good color, Great focal length for the target...
I must ask though, whats with the flare coming off the star in the bottom right of the image? is that a reflection off the corrector plate or perhaps a slight collimation problem? I've never seen anything like it...
Was that at F/10 or did you use a focal reducer?
In any case, fantastic.... Layer masking is the only way to deal with the trapezium... its such a hot area to try to recover...
I'm going to photographically split the trapezium into 6 stars next week hopefully... Thats the plan anyway.
Matt, Very nice indeed Good color, Great focal length for the target...
I must ask though, whats with the flare coming off the star in the bottom right of the image? is that a reflection off the corrector plate or perhaps a slight collimation problem? I've never seen anything like it...
Was that at F/10 or did you use a focal reducer?
In any case, fantastic.... Layer masking is the only way to deal with the trapezium... its such a hot area to try to recover...
I'm going to photographically split the trapezium into 6 stars next week hopefully... Thats the plan anyway.
Thanks Alex.
The reflection flare in the bottom corner is definitely not from the scopes optics, it is from the Focal Reducer. I'm not sure why it appears like that but it only happens with bright stars.
All my Deep Sky images are used with a Focal reducer as imaging at f/10 (2000mm) is not easy. Although I have tried.
I'm looking forward to you splitting the Trap in 6. I've done it visualy but have never tried it photographically.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lester
That is a very nice image Matt. I like all the detail that you have captured from the bright to the faint areas.
Thanks Lester.
I'm really pleased how it came out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by suma126
VERY nice matt .I give it 10/10
Thanks Shane.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig_L
Very nice Matt. Judging by that, maybe you don't need to mod at all.
Thanks Craig.
Just imagine how much better it would be with a modded camera.
My unmodded 450D is doing a great job at the moment but one thing is for sure, that it is going to get modded (one day).
Very nicely done Matt.
I'd perhaps lower the black point on the histogram to increase contrast and really make the colours pop.
Focus slighly out but only just.
I suspect the flare is from your longer exposure subs, perhaps you can mask out the flare using the shorter subs.
I'm assuming you were imaging at F10?
Glad you used ISO 400, better result on M42 than using ISO 800 with the same exposures.
Thanks Andrew.
Having another look at the image the next day definitely shows what you have missed the day before. Focus isn't the best as I have said before. I'm still using the course focuser on the C8 which makes focusing quite difficult sometimes. I agree the background does need to be slightly darker as well.
This was taken at F/6.3.
Apart from that, I think what really helped this image was using ICNR Darks instead of taking seperate darks for each different exposure at the end of the session.
Matt, I hear you on that.. I tried imaging @ F/10 through my 11" and the results were shockingly bad (unguided + 2800mm focal length) now that I've NEARLY got guiding working properly I'll be giving it another go to split the trap... I dont see any real reason to image at F10 other than splitting the trap...
Matty, make yourself a dial to fit over the focuser on the C8 which allows you finer adjustments.
You can make it out of a piece of perspex or similar, even wood.
Cut out a circle so you can wrap all your fingers around it, say around 5-7cm dia' then cut a smaller hole in the centre to fit snuggly over the focus knob so as not to slip.
Matt, I hear you on that.. I tried imaging @ F/10 through my 11" and the results were shockingly bad (unguided + 2800mm focal length) now that I've NEARLY got guiding working properly I'll be giving it another go to split the trap... I dont see any real reason to image at F10 other than splitting the trap...
For me, even F/6.3 isnt easy @ 1764mm
Your guiding will have to be pretty much spot on imaging at that FL.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RB
Matty, make yourself a dial to fit over the focuser on the C8 which allows you finer adjustments.
You can make it out of a piece of perspex or similar, even wood.
Cut out a circle so you can wrap all your fingers around it, say around 5-7cm dia' then cut a smaller hole in the centre to fit snuggly over the focus knob so as not to slip.
That is a very good idea but instead I am wanting to purchase a crayford focuser. We'll see what happens.
I have done a fairly quick reprocess and ended up with two versions.
The first version has not been changed except for the black point which I lowered to darken the background.
The second version has been sharpened using a high-pass filter layer and slightly over saturated to reveal more detail in the clouds. For the people who like a rough image with lots of detail.
Second Attempt at the Orion Nebula - M42
Thats the plan anyway.
