Hi All, Firstly I would just like to say Thank You for a Great site and info!
I have been quietly watching and researching for a while now and have a question or two and some images to share and I hope to encourage others as I have been encouraged - on so many levels - so please excuse the long post as I really want all new astronomers to know what can be achieved quite easily and cheaply.
Using this site and others I found lists of Webcams suitable for Astrophotography and, so far, I have purchased a 3COM Homeconnect USB Webcam and a Logitech Quickcam Pro 4000 Webcam - both off Ebay for less than $40 Total - a Mogg adapter ($41 Delivered) and a GSO IR Blocking Filter($19).
I made my first attempts at Astrophotography Monday night.
I am using the following equipment -
Guan Sheng Optical (GSO) GS-600 8" F/4 Newtonian with its stock Crayford style focusser
I found I could not focus either camera when placed directly into the eyepiece holder, but when I added a GSO 2x Barlow I could get the Webcams to focus OK.
Q#1 - Does this mean I can not achieve enough IN focus without the barlow lens and should look at getting a Low Profile focusser for imaging?
Q#2 - If I do get a Low Profile focusser, will I still be able to focus my eyepieces or will I need an Extension Tube for visual observing?
Q#3 - Is the Chromatic Abberation in the shot of Jupiter due to using a Achromatic Barlow instead of an ED or Apochromatic version or some other problem in the optical system?
The focus is off in my images, so I know a 10 to 1 or better Crayford Micro focusser is definately needed.
I have included as attatchments what I think is best image I got of the Moon (still not perfectly focussed), a poor to average shot of Jupiter (Chromatic Abberation),a photo of my complete setup and a direct comparison between the 3COM and Logitech Webcams on a terrestrial object.
I am too new to astronomy to be able to comment on 'Seeing' etc. and the images are simply single frames, no stacking, editing or anything, purely raw images.
Thank you for your time and advice.
Kind Regards,
Darren
PS - The entire setup - so far - less the PC has come in at under $1500!
Collimation may be off - I'm NOT confident collimating yet unfortunately
Darren, for a first attempt they are just brilliant, I can remember my first attempt some 35 years ago, and your efforts are something to be proud of, well done indeed.
Hi Leon, Thank You very much for the comments, but I have to say the credit really has to go to people like yourself on this forum and others on the web for sharing your ideas, information, experience and results that enables 'newbies' like me to 'skip a few steps' or 'skip a few potential downfalls' and achieve 'good' results - personally I'm am absolutely Stoked with what I have achieved and hope it can only get better from here .
I would really like to convey to newcomers to astronomy, and those considering it, that its not necessarily an expensive or overly difficult hobby, and great results and enjoyment can be achieved.
Thank You again,
Darren
Darren, i can't believe you drag the desktop tower with crt in tow to image outside - thats dedication. I don't think its CA around jupiter, this is a fault of refractors, i'm guessing its a focus thing
Darren, I am and older person, and If were to get an image like you have achieved, in the days of Black and White film, I would be stoked, you have done a great job, keep it up mate.
As for the Chromatic problems on Jupiter, I think this is a slight miscollimation of the primary mirror on your reflector (sorry Daniel, its not a refractor)
I had exactly the same issue with my 5" reflector and found that some VERY small adjustments of the primary mirror alignment with the focuser wound ALL the way out on Jupiter allows me to place the shadow of the secondary EXACTLY in the centre of the light ring around the secondary.
What I do is focus on Jupiter, then wind out the focus tube all the way until I see a REALLY big light donut with the secondary spider vanes visible. This should show you if the secondary looks directly in the middle of the primary or not. Some very slight (and I mean MINUTE) adjustments of the Primary mirror until the centre shadow is right in the middle should fix this up for you. Keep returning to focus and check periodically, DONT do this with your barlow in, because most barlows generate some sort of colour abberation unless they are super expensive like a televue.
Give that a go, once you get the hang of it, any future fine tuning is a doddle.
Hello Darren,
I was also out this evening with an Optex 8" f/4 Newtonian, Meade LPI, to get a start on astrophotography. First time out with this scope, first time with any scope for maybe thirty five years.
I didn't get anywhere near as good a set of images as you did. Well done.
I also suspect collimation issues with my OTA - some chromatic abberation, and like you the focuser is a bit rough, needs some serious tweaking. There are also some things I would like to do to the mount - adding an equatorial drive is among them, or perhaps upgrade to a real GoTo. I am given to understand from the articles I have read here that an f/4 scope requires very careful collimation to avoid chromatic aberrations.
Unfortunately the 8yo daughter lost interest quickly. Peeked at the moon, Jupiter, then moved on to play with her best mate from next door.
Hi there Darren to IIS nice pics for a newbie Im just about to get into starting some astrophotography myself the amazing pics that i have seen in here has inspired me to put my own pic up on the wall one day great job it can only get better from here on cheers Jen
The red and blue around Jupiter is due to atmospheric dispertion. It can be easily fixed by RGB align in the wavelets tab of registax. It will make it even better.
I'm not why the resolution is so small though? Did you record at 640x480?
Lol Chris i am reading the latest Sky and Telescope magazine and i am drooling at the cameras that are in there i have a big circle drawn around it and left it open in front of hubbys view hahaha
I remember my first go.. I left the camera on 1/4000 sec and guided away for a good 1/2 hour.. only caught on when I released the cable release and the mirror didn't slap down