Is it possible to set a lower altitude lime and have NINA conclude the sequence if the next frame will cross this limit?
I hit this problem last night.
On my first night using NINA I asked for only 5 frames and at the conclusion of the sequence NINA parked the scope and warmed the camera.
Emboldened by that, for my second run I asked for 20 frames and my mount stopped tracking when it hit its altitude limit. So PHD2 lost the plot, naturally. So kill PHD2 and NINA,parked the scope and warm the camera with nebulosity, only inconvenient but it really should not be required.
Chris
Hi Chris,
It’s likely the software you use to control the mount stops tracking when the mount reaches its altitude limit. You can likely configure it to park only when it hits a limit that you define (rather than simply stop tracking at the meridian or low altitude, and thus no longer wake up to find your mount in awkward positions). For example, I personally set the meridian limit a couple of degrees beyond the meridian on both sides so that the software never interferes with NINA and parks before an automatic meridian flip.
If you don’t wish to configure your mount control software, you can use the NINA Advanced sequencer, where you can ask it to take subs until x altitude or y time or after z subs - not to mention many, many other options.
Thanks Stephane,
Indeed when I look in the advanced sequencer instruction within the loop conditions there is a loop condition
"Loop Until Altitude Sets Below" entry, the illustration shows 30 degrees set.
I have a horizon limit set for m Sidereal technology controlled Mesu mount set at 30 degrees.
So if I were to set ,sy,32 degrees in NINA that should stop the collection of star trails.
I am near the Obs during imageing, to rotate the dome and observing just outside so I am not in danger of having an upside down telescope.
I just have to try to set advance sequence loop options.
Chris
Will it then park the mount and warm the camera?
Chris
It will not warm the camera and park unless you ask it to. Under “Sequencer End”, place in there a parallel set of instructions, then give it the instructions “warm camera” and “park scope”. Thus, NINA will loop until your target dips below your limit of 32 degrees, then it will warm the camera and park simultaneously.
Alternatively, after dipping below 32 degrees, you could image another target and loop until “astronomical dawn”, and then park and warm camera. That way, not a single minute of the night is wasted.
Thanks folks,
I guess that I will just have to read the advanced sequencer instructions several more times. Reading them I feel that my grasp of English is slipping away as I fail to understand some of that text.
Any way attached is the image from both night's data. Needs much more time on the object.
Chris
Thanks for the link Stephane, it surely addresses my biggest bugbear , the terminology.. With luck it will allow me to use the advanced sequencer.
Chris
The advance sequence is very powerfull.
I have it such that the sequence start when a) astronomical dark start and b) target is above 30 degrees.
The sequence finishes when a) astronomical dark finishes and b) target is below 30 degrees.
The end sequence I have warming up the camera, stop tracking and parking the scope, disconnected everything.
Be aware that imaging will stop even midway when one of the end condition is met.
It will not finish the current image.
So if you want 20 images but during image 20 the target is below 30 degrees, the sequence will stop and you will end up with 19 images.
Yes Wilso that is what I expect/desire I just need use the advanced sequencer with 30 degrees as a trigger condition. Alternatively I can create a genuine horizon fie, Sitech is good for that, get it in the required format and put it in the appropriate place for NINA.
I made a circular30 degree horizon file for CDC put i with no trouble,in Linux try for my obs laptop running Win10 tomorrow.
Chris
well, I took a series of darks and flats of the correct gain and duration.
In a first rerrocess with the darks the hot pixels were removed and the colour of the output mage was much improved. but dust halos remained,
The second reprocess had the flats loaded ,during processing dire sounding warnings about the lack of a master dark were given. But the output image was again much improved, see the attached image.
Co the next question, how do you make a master dark?
Chris
Lots of info on the web on this.
All you need is the temperature of your sensor and the exposure time you are normally using.
Put the cap on the scope and fire away.
