Hi all, thanks for your replies and advice.
Firstly, yes it's a tishy Kia van
It's more of an quick fix to get him up and going in a self contained camper for a year or two. Having said that, I've always used the theory of "do it right the first time" because it would be a hell of a job replacing (near impossible) after the lining and upholstery is laid. Also if it's done right and looks smart it may be a good seller to someone who wants to travel the country after he's finished with it.
My mind is at ease from your advice: there will be negligible (if any) reaction between the two metals to warrant any concern. So once again. Thank you.
I actually have a hidden agenda with helping with his project
I will soon be commencing doing the same with my Hilux ute. Although not in the same league as a campervan, I will be fitting out the back tub and canopy with a few luxuries to take the SDM scope away for weekend trips etc.
Quote:
Originally Posted by torana68
Why not use wool ?
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As in ceiling batts? I did think of this and may use them with my ute project. We've come across a leftover roll of sound deadening underfelt (used by motor trimmers, car stereo installers etc) so I may use this material instead.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GTB_an_Owl
Stephen - this is the sort of material you should be using (well i decided to use anyway)
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Sound-Dea...item27e4240e20
when doing my back floor i moved slightly from the conventional way of sticking the insulation to the floor
i stuck blocks of 2x1 to the floor with liquid nails - painted the floor with sound deadening paint -measured and cut sheets of marine ply to form a false floor - i then stuck the insulation material to the underside of the timber floor
so in effect i have rustproofed the van floor - provided an air gap to reduce effects of condensation - provided sound and temperature insulation - can screw the floor to the wooden blocks without going through metal and creating rust points
insulation can be stuck directly to wheel wells and inner cavity walls (its self adhesive)
Note - all joints are covered with an aluminium tape to prevent heat/sound leakage
geoff |
Thanks for the advice Geoff
I have two options for both the Kia and my Hilux (as I said I'm using the Kia van as a sort of test bed for some ideas before I apply them to my Hilux tub).
(a) Your idea: I also have thought of running some battens down the length of the floor and gluing them with liquid nails. I was looking at 1x1 battens. Then screwing the flooring onto the battens. I do like the idea of having an air gap but I was going to fill the gap with neoprene foam. My only concern is that is there a chance the liquid nails would come loose over time?
(b) lay the self-adhesive sound deadening product you've suggested across the entire floor and up the walls, contouring it to all surfaces (probably need an enitre roll for the Kia). Then place the ply floor directly on top. Finally, run bolts through the ply floor into the van's floor using stainless fasteners and nylon locking nuts. We've checked and we can get easy access to the underside of the floor to put bolts through each corner and one or two up the centre.
My camper has been in the planning stage 
for more than a decade 
, today I moved a step closer to making it a reality by actually buying the vehicle.
