Carina before/after Canon Mods.

[PhotonCollector (Paul)]

Originally Posted by FOOTPRINT

Hi Paul,
No thats not it, ill find the I.D. and let you know, A friend of mine is Brisbane got a sheet of the required glass, and has (I think) had it cut to size which comes out to 6 or so Canon size bits, Ill contact him see if he still has some for sale, ill let you know.

cheers....Jim

Hi Jim,

I understand this is the glass Edmunds Scientific Optics.
Its at this link http://www.edmundoptics.com/onlineca...productID=2402 and the Part Number is 32741.

I'd appreciate that ! re: your friend with required glass.

Paul Mayo

[PhotonCollector (Paul)]

Originally Posted by tornado33

Is this the edmunds glass? http://www.edmundoptics.com/onlineca...productID=1328

Geeday Scott,

yeah I believe the glass is Its at this link http://www.edmundoptics.com/onlinec...?productID=2402 and the Part Number is 32741.

regards
Paul Mayo

[Itchy]

Originally Posted by 2020BC

Just wondering, everything is red in shots taken with a modified DSLR. Is this a problem having to color balance everything so the stars are white again, etc..?

ALthough I don't use a modded camera, I have processed a few images from them. Without any other filter in place, everything is very red indeed. It is fairly easy to colour balance them though. usually through a levels adjustment. Also ImagePlus allow you to do pixel maths, and most recommend multiplying the red channel by 0.6 to restore the colour balance. Here is the modded image with a simple levels adjustment to balance the colours

Cheers

[FOOTPRINT]

Hi All,
And 2020BC you can get different results from the Modded Canon should you desire, if you dont like the Red bit, just do a CWB/daylight and you will get about what an unmodded Canon does but with the added sensitivity to Ha still available (No Filter), ive found also that if you do a CWB using a quartz-Halogen reading lamp, you can get a very blue Hue, just mucking about, well processing can of course get you the colours you want in any case, beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

M42- ED80 No Filters, CWB- ISO800-1 x 5 Min. Exp. DF removed, guided.

cheers.....Jim

[[1ponders] (Paul)]

What I want to know Jim is, you only live about an hour and a half from me. How come you're getting so many clear nights!!!!!!

Another fine shot again, BTW

[FOOTPRINT]

Hi Paul,
Dont worry im NOT, I just get a few minutes clear, I set-up and put the Camera on multi-exposure (use DSLR Focus for this) and hope for the best, hope the guiding will hold, of all the Pix I took last night (12) only two were useful, The weather is annoying, it was clear as a bell all day yesterday, then by 7 PM all the cloud from Fraser Isl. moved over here, broken but lots of it, and now the moon is waxing which puts an end to nebula photography for a couple of weeks.

cheers....Jim

[FOOTPRINT]

Hi Tony,
Yes that does something for the picture, im still learning how to use IP (a long hard road) I havent tried the Pixel-Maths bit as yet (because i dont know how) but would appreciate any hints on how to do so, I feel that just the right CWB setting would strike a happy medium in colour balance, any ideas on this subject???.

cheers....Jim

[2020BC (Bill Christie)]

I like the idea of capturing the correct color balance. The idea of being there, so that if you were close enough that it was bright enough for the color sensors in your eyes to begin working then this is how it would look.

Question is: what camera captures a more realistic look, an unmod'd or mod'd one?

Is there any info/data on this somewhere ? Say spectrographs of different parts of M42 or Eta Carina ?

[Itchy]

Originally Posted by FOOTPRINT

Hi Tony,
Yes that does something for the picture, im still learning how to use IP (a long hard road) I havent tried the Pixel-Maths bit as yet (because i dont know how) but would appreciate any hints on how to do so, I feel that just the right CWB setting would strike a happy medium in colour balance, any ideas on this subject???.

cheers....Jim

Jim,

To perform pixel maths on the red channel in IP:

Point --> Pixel Maths

Click on the Red square in the tool bar (this selects the red channel only).
select the multiply operator and adjust the slider to the factor you desire. Done

These days, I don't think about white balance at all. I convert my RAWs to Pre-Bayer, no white balance. Once calibration is finished, I then run the bayer interpolation.

cheers

[FOOTPRINT]

Thanks Tony, ill have a go at that
2020BC- Without additional processing the Un-Modified Camera would be best, but is less sensitive to Ha light (the main emission from say M42 Etc.) the modifed camera with no filter and no CWB is all red, Gary Honis has some info. on this pages re comparisons.

cheers.....Jim

[Vermin (Tom)]

Originally Posted by Robby

All you need to know is here http://ghonis2.ho8.com/rebelmod.html
I used the glass mentioned here from Edmund Scientific. Don't also forget the shims that are added to preserve autofocus.
Cheers

One thing that worries me about this full spectrum modification is shown in every daytime "after" photo on that site. They all appear very soft, and the colour saturation seems to have suffered too.

I really wanted a Ha sensitive Canon 350D for astronomical imaging but I also wanted to be able to use it for it's excellent daylight photos too (not IR photography though).

Is a Hutech Ha back filter with a daylight front filter the solution?

Or is this a case of not being able to have my cake and eat it too?

[tornado33]

Yes the Hutech back filter with daylight front should allow normal daylight imaging, then just remove the front filter for the astro imaging
Scott