Training wheel on SOL for 07 April 2013

[h0ughy (David)]

well i am trying different processing yet again. This is made from a mosaic of 16 shots. I am getting there - just not in a conventional way.

this is the morning shot - will process the PM shot later, and maybe a repro or two following on from here

[iceman (Mike)]

Looking good dave!

[Derek Klepp]

Dave I know nothing of mosaics but I would say this may be your best disc yet.Obviously your techniques are working.

[asimov (John)]

Looks good to me.

[sheeny (Al)]

Al.

[Larryp (Laurie)]

Looks good, David!

[h0ughy (David)]

Originally Posted by Derek Klepp

Dave I know nothing of mosaics but I would say this may be your best disc yet.Obviously your techniques are working.

Originally Posted by iceman

Looking good dave!

Originally Posted by asimov

Looks good to me.

Originally Posted by sheeny

Al.

Originally Posted by Larryp

Looks good, David!

thanks guys. With quality work as a guide from Paul, Ralph, Peter and John. LOL sounds like the apostles

[Paul Haese]

Certainly looks much better David. Etalon setting might be a little too far towards the blue end. So try more in the middle. It gives a filagree look. The center of the disk is a little dark too whilst the limb is brighter. If you can reverse that the disk will look more like a sphere. There is supposed to be some fall off of light near the limb.

You are getting there though and making huge improvements all the time. Don't worry too much take a look through my gallery of mosaics and see how long it too me. You are well ahead at this stage.

[h0ughy (David)]

Originally Posted by Paul Haese

Certainly looks much better David. Etalon setting might be a little too far towards the blue end. So try more in the middle. It gives a filagree look. The center of the disk is a little dark too whilst the limb is brighter. If you can reverse that the disk will look more like a sphere. There is supposed to be some fall off of light near the limb.

You are getting there though and making huge improvements all the time. Don't worry too much take a look through my gallery of mosaics and see how long it too me. You are well ahead at this stage.

Love the comment – its critical and informative

OK - deciphering the post – I had to look up the definition of filigree to fully understand what you were referring to – so I take it it is the circular hole/dish look? I am not sure how to fix that in this image at the moment?

Because I am using a vixen 2.4 Barlow lens on the DMK41 I tried to get an even coverage over the whole image area, if I centered it I would have highlighting in the centre of each frame? Not sure how that would come out in the end?

As for the etalon towards the blue end – I put my hand up and declare I have no idea what your on about there. I can see some Special High Intensity Training on that point. I’m flying blind?

In a whole sense I can understand what you’re saying (for the most part), but I am still pretty green in processing this in a mosaic. What I have determined is that about 8 shots are required minimum to get the disk, more is better in getting it smoothed when aligned. I have kept the exact same settings throughout the whole imaging process to try and keep the same brightness throughout – but that is introducing a ring?

I will ponder that for a while – I have a headache

[Paul Haese]

Just to help out with what I am on about here goes.

To get filagree look you want some broad structure visible and some fine whispy stuff showing. This is dependent upon the etalon setting. Usually that is located some where near center of the band pass. It will depend upon where you etalon comes on band in the red wing and where it goes off band in the blue wing.

With getting even illumination you need to look at the entire frame and watch for slight brightening in one side of the sensor. Move the scope backwards and forwards and up and down to confirm you have the illumination right. Then start your run once you have the illumination right. Moving the scope will show uneven illumination. Even Lunt scopes have some uneven illumination, it is minor but still there.

Blue end - I should have used blue wing. So to explain. The etalon covers from the red wing to blue wing of 656 nano meters. These wings are not separated by much, but enough to give different effects. When the image is at the blue wing the structures look bolder and eventually look rather odd. You get there by winding the etalon all the way in on a pressure tuner of a Lunt. With the red wing, just undo the etalon all the way out and that is the red wing. You just get spots and nothing else. This is how I understand it anyway. See these images

Just keep collecting data and processing. It will come with time and persistence. I did lots of reading and contacting a few prominent solar imagers overseas for tips and clues on what to do and how to do it. Part of the fun though is discovery via research.

[h0ughy (David)]

REPRO FROM LUNCH EFFORT

i was trying to focus on getting the banding circle out of this

[astronobob (Bob)]

Looking Flash David

[h0ughy (David)]

Originally Posted by Paul Haese

Just to help out with what I am on about here goes.

To get filagree look you want some broad structure visible and some fine whispy stuff showing. This is dependent upon the etalon setting. Usually that is located some where near center of the band pass. It will depend upon where you etalon comes on band in the red wing and where it goes off band in the blue wing.

With getting even illumination you need to look at the entire frame and watch for slight brightening in one side of the sensor. Move the scope backwards and forwards and up and down to confirm you have the illumination right. Then start your run once you have the illumination right. Moving the scope will show uneven illumination. Even Lunt scopes have some uneven illumination, it is minor but still there.

Blue end - I should have used blue wing. So to explain. The etalon covers from the red wing to blue wing of 656 nano meters. These wings are not separated by much, but enough to give different effects. When the image is at the blue wing the structures look bolder and eventually look rather odd. You get there by winding the etalon all the way in on a pressure tuner of a Lunt. With the red wing, just undo the etalon all the way out and that is the red wing. You just get spots and nothing else. This is how I understand it anyway. See these images

Just keep collecting data and processing. It will come with time and persistence. I did lots of reading and contacting a few prominent solar imagers overseas for tips and clues on what to do and how to do it. Part of the fun though is discovery via research.

thanks Paul - will read the link in detail later, did a pdf of the page.