There were a few reasons for deciding on the size and speed of the scope. I wanted a scope that my mpcc would produce a corrected field over. Currently with my f4 I still have some coma at the edge of the image. This makes imaging over multiple nights have additional complications because if the coma changes over 2 nights then images dont line up.
I also thought that a 6 inch scope would be a good size for a first build. and finally I will not be able to replace my mount for a while and thought that an 8 inch (probally the next size up) f5 scope would be too big and heavy for my mount.
Just ordered protostar flocking for the tube interior. I put a few coats of marine varnish over it on the weekend to protect the epoxy from uv rays now just have to wait for parts
I was greeted with a letter saying that my scope was at the post office this morning, it seems I had missed the delivery. I rushed off to the post office and picked it up. I had a long day ahead of me because the tube I had made had alot of work to get it ready for mirrors. Here are various photos of the progress made.
I am very impressed with the secondary and primary cell / holder/ spider. They are a major improvement from the GSO. The focuser I am yet to pass judgement on, it seems OK but I may end up replacing it with the moonlite from my GSO.
After drilling all the holes, and flocking the tube with protostar flocking paper I did a quick collimation with my cats eye tools. It was perfect! previous to this I had never been able to achieve the perfect circles in the offset pupil and single reflection in the central pupil at the same time.
For those who want to know the new scope should produce a 28mm 100% illuminated field (previous scope had 0mm 100% due to backfocus hungry OAG)
Now to wait for a clear night to see how she performs under starlight.
Very cool, bet you're getting excited now?
Can't wait to see some images.
My carbon cloth is still sitting here because I haven't found a primary yet, but it has given me time to think about my process. I have now changed from the West System 105 epoxy to Araldite 3600 'coz it has ~90min pot life! As I will be bagging, I'll need all the working time I can get!
Seems the Rocketry guys are making carbon tubes using this resin with good results:http://www.ausrocketry.com/forum/vie...hp?f=13&t=2046
I have everything together now and everything is sorted out, there are some serious storms here though. I took some flats tonight to see how it will perform, the first is a flat straight from the camera, the second is the same with some serious stretching! There is some vignetting present but overall I am very happy with it.
And the first test night out under the stars. Tonight I didnt go for a great image, just wanted to see what the new scope could do. I need to work on the spider alignment as the veins are producing multiple spikes. I am very happy with the scope, here is a single 5 minute sub of ngc1365 complete with supernova. Towards the end of the sub the guider sent a relay it shouldnt have and produced a ghost (offset directly up) but apart from that everything looks pretty round.
Thanks mate, I took another tonight sadly my flats are letting me down though . I am loving the small stars that this mirror gives me! And I am finding that changing to the longer tube and flocking it is making a huge difference to gradients.
Hi Peter
Although aperture is different, do you find any difference in details with this mirror compared to your 8inch gso? I've got a standard grade 10" from them that I'm yet to test, but was wondering what the visible difference would be with their three grades for dso's
I am noticing tighter stars than my gso but I think it is more to do with the carbon tube holding focus, and the superior cell and secondary holding better collimation. I suspect the optics play little if any role in increasing the quality at this focal length. Having said that the price difference was minimal so I thought why not
. I am loving the small stars that this mirror gives me! And I am finding that changing to the longer tube and flocking it is making a huge difference to gradients.
