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Old 17-01-2012, 06:22 PM
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Marke (Mark)
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Feedback on Obs cladding.

Guys while patiently waiting for my pier I have decided I may as well keep going and build a ROR obs to keep it cosy . I am currently in the planning phase and looking at my options to clad. Currently the plan is to clad it first in ply then screw the colour bond cladding over the ply. Are there any drawbacks to this or any thing else I should be adding between the colourbond / ply or the ply / frame ?
Thanks..
Mark
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Old 17-01-2012, 08:24 PM
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ZeroID (Brent)
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Have you thought about insulation ? Might help moderate daytime temps with some fan assisted air cooling.
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Old 17-01-2012, 08:28 PM
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Brent yes I have I think it would need to go between ply and frame . I am wondering if I should put plastic sheet between the colourbond and the ply
to help with weathersealing . Only fan if any will be solar as I wont be running permanent power to it anytime soon .

Mark
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Old 18-01-2012, 03:13 PM
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stardust steve (Steve)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marke View Post
Guys while patiently waiting for my pier I have decided I may as well keep going and build a ROR obs to keep it cosy . I am currently in the planning phase and looking at my options to clad. Currently the plan is to clad it first in ply then screw the colour bond cladding over the ply. Are there any drawbacks to this or any thing else I should be adding between the colourbond / ply or the ply / frame ?
Thanks..
Mark
Hi Marke. I can give some advise from my experience as a Roof/Cladding and gutter installer in the Building and Construction Indusrty. If you fix your cladding directly to the ply ( there lies another problem, get to that in a sec), the condensate/moisture will have a great deal more area to become trapped therefore rusting out your cladding(zincalume/colorbond) sheets a lot quicker. I would recommend sarking as an excellent moisture barrier which has some thermal insulating properties. By placing insulation batts into the framing cavity then sarking over the top of the frame before you fix the cladding make an ideal combo.
Getting back to the fixing problem. When fixing into timber, the fixing needs a minimum of 25mm into the timber for strength and a 10x 25 or (12x 25 type 17 thread would be highly recommended for it thread type) timber tek screw would be advised for the fixing. And if you were to use ply at that thickness, i doubt that it could be flexed enough to form a curve to suit the frame. If you are fixing the cladding into metal top hat/galvanized c-section as the frame, then smaller fixings can be use such as 10x16 metal tek screw or rivets( personally rivets are not a great fixing choice as they rust quicker if they are not stainless and any expansion and contraction in the cladding material can cause them to pop out. Im my opinion it would be better to clad directly to a timber or metal frame, insulate the frame cavity and then sark the outside of the frame. Good cladding material is S-rib corrugated, Panelform and Ribform can be curved well. MiniFlute (miniorb) can be curved too but the price is higher. Either in colorbond or Zincalume and paint yourself.
If you get some plans ( some plans are on a IIS thread i think) i can help with further advise.
I hope this has helped, feel free to ask any more questions

Edit- here is a link for walling profiles here

Last edited by stardust steve; 18-01-2012 at 03:23 PM. Reason: added a link
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Old 18-01-2012, 03:35 PM
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rogerg (Roger)
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I have a colourbond clad ROR which has an enclosed half and an open half.

My suggestions:

Keep thermal mass to a minimum so it cools down quick. Let it heat up in the day as long as it cools down at night.

My insulated enclosed half heats up less than the open half (36 degrees vs 42 degrees on a hot day) but as soon as the sun leaves the observatory in the afternoon the un-insulated half immediately (I mean very quick - within 10-20 minutes) drops BELOW the outside temperature as heat is quickly radiated out by the colourbond metal. By the time night comes and I open the roof the telescope is comfortably cooled from the hot day, I feel. The insulated half slows down slowly and never fully cools. I have a reasonable size exhaust fan in the insulated half which has some but minimal effect on speeding up the cool-down time.

Even if your whole ROR rolls off, I think the insulated walls would continue to hold heat through the night, which colourbond on its own doesn't.

Use white. I used "wheat" colour Colourbond (which is a very light colour) and after painting the roof white observed a significant reduction in heat (42 degrees vs 50 something degrees on hot days). I have white shade cloth down the northern wall too now.

I personally don't see the need for the extra layer of wood, I would just go with colourbond, paint it if you like. If you want a nice look to the inside by lining it, I'm not sure what would be best exactly. I used fibro to line the inside half of mine when I insulated it. It is nice having it lined, makes it a cleaner neater environment, but the tradeoff is the slow/absent cool-down. Perhaps if doing it again I'd put the same fibro lining on but not use insulation. In winter the inside half is nice and cosy, the insulation and lining does a great job. Very glad I kept the open half bare Colourbond though.

Have fun and don't be too fussy, I've found it's easy to be too pedantic about technicalities of permanent mountings/observatories, worth sometimes just going with what works for you, ease and cost, and making what you have work.
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Old 18-01-2012, 05:21 PM
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Thanks Steve,Roger great info
My rethink now is to go with the colourbond (cheapest option) with the frame wrapped in air-cell insulshed and then line the inside with ply . Roger you are right about getting fussy , its easy to start over thinking these things . Now i just need to get my head around the various roof configurations and weather sealing
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Old 18-01-2012, 05:31 PM
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Terry B
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My ROR observatory is a crapiata frame with colourbond on the outside. I don't have any internal cladding and use the frame a make shift narrow shelves. I do have sarking on the roof with the colourbond screwed on top of it.
I have plenty of air gap between the roof and the walls. This allows it to cool down very quickly in the evening especially after the roof is rolled off.
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