5D first pic - Page 2

TidaLpHasE · #21 28-12-2005, 11:08 AM

Awsome is an understatement, the detail obtained from the 10 second eta wide field, is unbelievable.

I can definately see myself being challenged processing images with this camera (when it arrives), would there be an improvement using it through the scope prime focus? I would love to see a pic through an ed80 or similar.

avandonk · #22 28-12-2005, 11:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TidaLpHasE

Awsome is an understatement, the detail obtained from the 10 second eta wide field, is unbelievable.

I can definately see myself being challenged processing images with this camera (when it arrives), would there be an improvement using it through the scope prime focus? I would love to see a pic through an ed80 or similar.

Did you look a the 7min LMC pic through nebula filter.
The 80ED would not show as much if any vignetting as long as the T-mount aperture is greater than the diagonal of a 35mm frame ie 43mm. I have a 80ED and a Hutech T-mount with an aperture of 46mm, will take some pics tonight if clear.

Bert

TidaLpHasE · #23 30-12-2005, 03:54 AM

Bert, i have checked all your pics with this camera at Terry's site, I am still amazed at the detail it collects.

I am thinking that due to its sensitivity, it would show a lot more errors in tracking and alignment than a standard sensor would, and also with the full frame, degrade the corner quality somewhat more than normal.

I have just looked at my T-Mount adapter, and noted its inside diameter is 41.5mm, i will be needing a replacement for this camera to fit the sensor size as you mentioned.

Is there anywhere in Oz or Melbourne that i can get one? or is it another o/s purchase?

thanks, Trevor.....

avandonk · #24 30-12-2005, 04:58 AM

A diameter of 41.5 should be OK, it's just some only have a 32mm aperture. I got mine from Hutech, they have their own system with extension tubes etc.

I just took some images with an 80ED and the 5D. Seemed to go OK. you are correct I think autoguiding is a must.

Here is a four minute exposure 600mm F7.5 (80ED) ISO 800 LPR filter.
A single JPG auto colour corrected in Photoshop filtered with noiseware.

http://users.bigpond.net.au/avandonk...1_filtered.jpg

This tells me the earlier shots may have been overexposed.

Bert

CometGuy · #25 30-12-2005, 08:28 AM

Bert/Trevor,

The 80ED seems to holdup very well at the edges, I was expecting worse. But you should use a flat field if you can.

Terry

Striker (Tony) · #26 30-12-2005, 09:20 AM

About tiime you gave us something to really look at Bert....that looks magnificent Bert.

looking forward to more images from you.

avandonk · #27 30-12-2005, 10:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CometGuy

Bert/Trevor,

The 80ED seems to holdup very well at the edges, I was expecting worse. But you should use a flat field if you can.

Terry

Is there a suitable field corrector available? Did the CD's arrive?
I was pleasantly surprised how well the 80ED held up with a full frame.
There is a bit of vignetting due to the telescope baffles and focuser.

Bert

[1ponders] (Paul) · #28 30-12-2005, 10:39 AM

Hi Bert, apparently the Televue 0.8 works well with the Orion. There's a bit of info on reducers for the Orion here http://webcaddy.com.au/astro/DSLR_Focal_Reducer.htm

RB (Andrew) · #29 30-12-2005, 11:32 AM

Bert I had a go at your image to see if the vignetting could be improved.
The outer edges still exibit a bit and obviously I've compressed it alot for the forum.

Also (you probably know) if you shoot in RAW you can do adjustments through the Photoshops RAW plugin to adjust the vignetting.

avandonk · #30 30-12-2005, 11:38 AM

Yes It looks much better. I just put a pic up from a jpg with minimal processing (at 5AM) to give an idea of the amazing performance of this camera.

I will have a go at some raw files. Hope to take more tonight.

Bert

avandonk · #31 30-12-2005, 12:06 PM

Have a play with this one it is a cropped (to keep the size down) jpg from four stacked tiffs.Same exposure etc as the previous.

2.4M
http://users.bigpond.net.au/avandonk/Orion.jpg

Bert

RB (Andrew) · #32 30-12-2005, 12:29 PM

Here's a small version of that one Bert.

avandonk · #33 30-12-2005, 12:45 PM

What did you do to it. I only have Photoshop essentials should I get the full version? Ph. Ess. doesn't support 16 bit tiff.

Bert

Striker (Tony) · #34 30-12-2005, 01:10 PM

Nicely dont Andrew.....come on let us know what you did.

Great shot Bert.

RB (Andrew) · #35 30-12-2005, 05:18 PM

Thanks for the comments guys.

I basically follow these steps when I process. (Mind you I'm only learning so feel free to add to this, anyone.)

I first convert to 16 bit under the Image|Mode menu in PhotoShop CS.
It's best to shoot in RAW mode in the first place, but I forget sometimes.

Under Image|Adjustments|Levels... I click on the Black eyedroper and click on somewhere on the image which should be black. This stretches the histogramme. Then I adjust the sliders so the black,grey and white pointers encompasses the histogramme.

I click on Auto Contrast under Image|Adjustments|
If it looks ok I move on.

Curves under the Image|Adjustments|Curves menu is a big step where I adjust the Rubberband line into an "S" curve to bring out some colour detail, very subjective and up to you what you like best.

Moving on to the next major step Image|Adjustments|Colour Balance and here is where you can adjust each colour channel in the High,Medium and low Tone Balance of the histogramme.
I adjust with the "Preserve Luminosity" on.
Usually I boost the blue in the high Tone Balance, cut the green back and depending on the subject either boost or cut back on the red.

I also cut back on the blue in the Low Tone Balance and boost the green as needed.

Then under the Image|Adjustments|Brightness/Contrast I will cut back on the brightness and boost the contrast till I'm happy with it.

The Trap is always a difficult area unless you stack a few different frames taken at different ISO/exposure.

I then move down to Image|Adjustments|Photo Filter and if needed I apply an appropriate filter to bring out some final colour detail. (not always useful).

At this point I move over to the Filter menu and I use two plug ins which I have bought.

The first is RC- GradientXterminator from http://www.rc-astro.com/
which helps get rid of gradients and some vengetting.

Then I use Neat Image to clean up the noise.
I save it in tiff and then uncheck the 16 bit mode so I can save it in jpg (8 bit mode) for the forum.

I've been experimenting and it's a trial and error process sometimes.

The two books I've been learning from have been invaluable.
The New CCD Astronomy by Ron Wodaski and
The Introduction to Digital Astrophotography by Robert Reeves.
I bought both from Bintel and have been digesting all the info from these great books.

avandonk · #36 30-12-2005, 08:59 PM

Thanks for that.Could you email me the largest version. Thanks. Looks like I have to get some books and do some careful reading.

Bert

Striker (Tony) · #37 30-12-2005, 11:49 PM

Very nice process their Andrew.....you have shown me a few more proccessing tips thanks...

This is my attempt Bert.

avandonk · #38 30-12-2005, 11:51 PM

OK from now on, I'll shoot them and you guys clean them.

Bert

CometGuy · #39 31-12-2005, 12:01 AM

Bert,

This might be useful, I have just posted step-by-step screen captures showing you the basic method of how I processed vignetting in your jpegs using IRIS. I will annotate them over the weekend, but you should be able follow the process somewhat.

http://www.pbase.com/terrylovejoy/iris_tut1

Terry

CometGuy · #40 31-12-2005, 12:11 AM

Very nice job Andrew

Terry