Caleb, if it is a synscan it will have two ports and a power port on the bottom of the controller. You can plug the power straight into the bottom of the hand controller and if it works you know something else is wrong. Most likely the cable from the mount as Robert suggests.
Caleb, if it is a synscan it will have two ports and a power port on the bottom of the controller. You can plug the power straight into the bottom of the hand controller and if it works you know something else is wrong. Most likely the cable from the mount as Robert suggests.
Mark
Thanks for filling that in Mark. I've also downloaded the synscan manual and had the feeling that it should be possible to test the hand control separately. I just couldn't work out where the batteries were placed. Its important (need I say it) that the polarity is right!!! Caleb isn't sure whether it is a Synscan or not. My Celestron is clearly marked and I would expect other brands to flash their name too.
I just hate to see someone in trouble like this.
Robert
Thanks for filling that in Mark. I've also downloaded the synscan manual and had the feeling that it should be possible to test the hand control separately. I just couldn't work out where the batteries were placed. Its important (need I say it) that the polarity is right!!! Caleb isn't sure whether it is a Synscan or not. My Celestron is clearly marked and I would expect other brands to flash their name too.
I just hate to see someone in trouble like this.
Robert
Me too Robert. I actually have the synscan controller (ver 3) on my HEQ5 pro and its a funny thing. When I tried to upgrade the software as I do with my meades it did not work and the controller appeared to be dead, nothing, zilch. I took it back and got another one which did exactly the same thing when I tried to upgrade. I also thought I had reversed the polarity or my power pack had killed the controller. This time I re-booted and held the 8 key down and thankfully it came back to life but had no software on it. It turns out the software loader was bad and wiped all the code without replacing it. I dropped back and used an earlier version of the loader and hey presto, it all worked again. Never had a problem with the meade controllers which I update all the time.
Sadly Mark we are in the hands of the so-called "experts". When things go wrong that aren't our fault, the heart-ache it creates I think can be worse than when we do something idiotic ourselves. At least we can blame someone. Either way, there is always a lot of chasing around to do. In that regard, I pity those that live away from the cities. But gee, I'd love to have the clear dark skies that those living out bush have. I guess you can't have it all ways.
I have been fortunate with my Celestron although I did suffer one failure which was in fact a faulty cable to the hand controller. Only took a week to get another one.
Let us now wait and see whether poor Caleb has had any luck. The AA batteries he has I don't think will power the motors but should be sufficient to power up the controller.
Just as an aside, I've just installed Kubuntu onto an old PC. (I'm running it now.) I want to check out the planetarium software, KStars. Could be good.
Robert
Ok, thanks once again guys. And sorry for the late reply...
I've tested to battery pack as it was plugged into the mount with the controller and it is the same as when it is not plugged in. The pack has also dropped to 12.7V from the original 13.5V
In reading your posts about Synscan I've come to hypothesise that I am not using synscan, no software updates here.
And I've used ordinary AA's before with no problems.
Ok, thanks once again guys. And sorry for the late reply...
I've tested to battery pack as it was plugged into the mount with the controller and it is the same as when it is not plugged in. The pack has also dropped to 12.7V from the original 13.5V
In reading your posts about Synscan I've come to hypothesise that I am not using synscan, no software updates here.
And I've used ordinary AA's before with no problems.
OK Caleb, your absence had me a bit worried. Now I take it that the voltage you measure (12.7V) is there when the controller is both plugged in and switched on. Is there a rise in voltage as you switch the controller off? What I am trying to establish is whether the batteries are flat. If 12.7 volt is sustained when the controller is on, that should be enough for the controller to operate. If it is not operating then I feel sad.............
The only other concern I have is that the cable which you say has a broken plug, may not be making contact. If you can rule that out, then there is nothing left. Sorry.
I'm surprised the controller isn't clearly marked with the brand name. Most companies like to tell everyone of their existence in every way possible. Certainly Celestron have their name all over everything. But when all else fails, a picture can beat a 1000 words. - Good idea Mark.
Robert
I've been watching this thread for a little now, and whilst i don't claim to be an expert on any type of mount, I do have an electronics background. I would be heading straight for that cable, I've seen many high tech pieces of kit come undone because of a simple cable. Noting that this may not fix the problem immediately, it will definitely prevent this cable becoming a problem in the very near future.
I can't emphasise enough to replace that dodgy connection, if the connections touch yes, you may read voltage with a multimeter on the connection, but this may account for bugger all in reality due to a thing called impedance (its caught many a technician unstuck) that little tang is what assists in overcoming this thing called impedance
As for the hand controller, without schematics I can't tell, but for the hand controller to get hot I'm thinking the motor driver side of things (it doesnt make sense to me that driver FET's or tranies be in the hand controoler though), there maybe a Watt of energy or more there to get the hand controller warm, far more power than is required by a standard micro-controller circuit.
One thing that concerns me (without electronic diagrams once more) is that the unit may have had reverse polarity applied to it, Ive seen it many a time where these diodes are not included for the mere fact that the designed connections are not intended to be altered eg a mobile phone battery will only work when placed in the mobile correctly, so why does it need reverse polarity protection?
In my experience electronic components don't always display a visible defect, test equipment such as a Oscilloscope are required to chase out the faults due to data passing, pwm waveforms etc
(Thats my best effort at electronics in English without getting into long winded explanations)
Heres the good news,
A TV Dr is a very adaptable being, in lieu of having a telescope mount electronics specialist readily at hand, Even better if you know of someone with a fair bit of electronics experience.
It may only cost you a six pack for labor and parts (thats my charge if I get it things going again)
Good luck with the mount, Truly, I can imagine the amount of angst this is causing, I eagerly await the result of the fault
Couldn't agree more trent_julie. From the picture Caleb, I would say the controller is not a Synscan. A Synscan clearly marks its brand name. BUT, the advert says it is a Synscan. Maybe its specially produced for Skywatcher????
Go for the cable Caleb. Is there a plug at both ends? If not you will definitely need a technician to solder a new one into the hand controller for you.
Robert
Caleb, if that is your controller it is definately not a synscan so please disregard any posts I have made as they do not relate to your problem. A picture of the synscan is placed below. Good luck with it all.
Caleb, the crimpers and fittings are as cheap as chips. Go to DSE or Jcar and buy them. Repairing the cable is a 2 minute job. Just make sure you take note of the order of the coloured wires.
