Concreter from shed mob showed up (at last) , quoted slab $1200 if I go to 3.9m x 3.3m slab , gravel fill and made to building stardards .... ouch !!!
Looks like overkill to me ----it'll only have two telescopes on piers in it and maybe a desk , a lockable cabinet , and a chair inside.
The chap who came this avo is a bit expensive I think and did the hard sell on the steel garden style sheds for the company he works for.
Called another concreter who I'll ask for quote for the same size slab done REAL BASIC.
I can get 4 cum of readymix for $850 (concrete only).
Seriously considering doing my own formwork ( frame only) and just filling it with readymix , even if I pay someone to smooth out and level the top of the wet readymix when layed.
(gives me about 0.7m minimum walk around room from the business end 10" OTA when horizontal , if I go stuck with a 3.8m x 2.4m shed will have only 0.4m minimum walk around room , tha's a bit tight I think .... OTA not been reassembled yet - guessing COG will be about 1/3 way from bottom of tube .)
Pegged out the spot (it will dominate the yard !! if the roof rolls off towards towards the north boundary fence) , time to reconsider LOCATION and ROOF-OFF direction I THINK.
Now thinking along lines of placing the slab nearer my north boundary and rolling off to the either the east or west.
A timber framed 3.8m x 3.2m shed , steel low pitch gable steel roof or convex (not sprung) roof , clad with zincalume steel sheeting or Hardyplank is looking promising.
GEMs on concrete piers is looking better and better too.
Can't be that difficult to get the treated pine cut to length and assemble (nail together) the wall frames , still no quotes on prefab wall frames yet...
Concrete is easy to do yourself if you pre-mark all your levels and have some basic tools. Like any DIY, the more you do yourself the better the project pride!
Also don't forget to run any pipes under your slab out to your pier before you concrete if you dont want to trip over leads later. I used a 50m pipe so I could get cables with plugs on it threaded though and also a power point near the base of the pier is handy!!
I attached some pics of mine including the roller section if anyone is interested.
- Dave.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian Robinson
Concreter from shed mob showed up (at last) , quoted slab $1200 if I go to 3.9m x 3.3m slab , gravel fill and made to building stardards .... ouch !!!
Looks like overkill to me ----it'll only have two telescopes on piers in it and maybe a desk , a lockable cabinet , and a chair inside.
The chap who came this avo is a bit expensive I think and did the hard sell on the steel garden style sheds for the company he works for.
Called another concreter who I'll ask for quote for the same size slab done REAL BASIC.
I can get 4 cum of readymix for $850 (concrete only).
Seriously considering doing my own formwork ( frame only) and just filling it with readymix , even if I pay someone to smooth out and level the top of the wet readymix when layed.
(gives me about 0.7m minimum walk around room from the business end 10" OTA when horizontal , if I go stuck with a 3.8m x 2.4m shed will have only 0.4m minimum walk around room , tha's a bit tight I think .... OTA not been reassembled yet - guessing COG will be about 1/3 way from bottom of tube .)
Pegged out the spot (it will dominate the yard !! if the roof rolls off towards towards the north boundary fence) , time to reconsider LOCATION and ROOF-OFF direction I THINK.
Now thinking along lines of placing the slab nearer my north boundary and rolling off to the either the east or west.
A timber framed 3.8m x 3.2m shed , steel low pitch gable steel roof or convex (not sprung) roof , clad with zincalume steel sheeting or Hardyplank is looking promising.
GEMs on concrete piers is looking better and better too.
Can't be that difficult to get the treated pine cut to length and assemble (nail together) the wall frames , still no quotes on prefab wall frames yet...
Concrete is easy to do yourself if you pre-mark all your levels and have some basic tools. Like any DIY, the more you do yourself the better the project pride!
Also don't forget to run any pipes under your slab out to your pier before you concrete if you dont want to trip over leads later. I used a 50m pipe so I could get cables with plugs on it threaded though and also a power point near the base of the pier is handy!!
I attached some pics of mine including the roller section if anyone is interested.
- Dave.
Not wrong on the pride thing .... gotta give this more thought before I start spending money .
Looking at walls 1.7m tall .... I'm a short bugger so that gives me at few inches to spare.
I really like the curved steel sheet roof idea too and am thinking of incorporating it into my design rather than a low pitch gable , skillion or even a flat roof.
I've rejected the steel garden shed (basic shell) idea, not enough structural strength in the wall structure to support the roll-off-able steel sheet roof and not secure enough..
Not wrong on the pride thing .... gotta give this more thought before I start spending money .
Looking at walls 1.7m tall .... I'm a short bugger so that gives me at few inches to spare.
I really like the curved steel sheet roof idea too and am thinking of incorporating it into my design rather than a low pitch gable , skillion or even a flat roof.
I've rejected the steel garden shed (basic shell) idea, not enough structural strength in the wall structure to support the roll-off-able steel sheet roof and not secure enough..
.........and you think that your building will be secure - if they want it they will break in no matter what. if you spend the extra for a welded single door and a handle lock you can add a hasp and padlock later. the insulation for the shed is a snap - and works out heaps cheaper - do your homework Ian, r3.75 foil bubblewrap from bunnings and some timber for basic framing and a staplegun and tape- the roof is very lightweight with a prefab shed. Mate i am surprised - you are supposed to be an engineer? Typical GB getting someone to do the concrete - priceless - especially if you have NFI you spent nearly a grand with your own quote for just mass concrete no reo, and labour is well worth it in this case. the timber framing screwed to the steel will be pretty solid. they only use a crappy piece of MDF on houses for framing integrity at the front. Save your money and get it done when you have the full amount
.........and you think that your building will be secure - if they want it they will break in no matter what. if you spend the extra for a welded single door and a handle lock you can add a hasp and padlock later. the insulation for the shed is a snap - and works out heaps cheaper - do your homework Ian, r3.75 foil bubblewrap from bunnings and some timber for basic framing and a staplegun and tape- the roof is very lightweight with a prefab shed. Mate i am surprised - you are supposed to be an engineer? Typical GB getting someone to do the concrete - priceless - especially if you have NFI you spent nearly a grand with your own quote for just mass concrete no reo, and labour is well worth it in this case. the timber framing screwed to the steel will be pretty solid. they only use a crappy piece of MDF on houses for framing integrity at the front. Save your money and get it done when you have the full amount
Yep , if a villian wants in and really wants what's inside the shed, you can't stop him getting in if he is determined.
I'm not a builder or a carpentor or a metal worker (some welding skills and machining would be very handy) by any stretch of the imagination , never had the need to develop those skills , and am a novice at this DIYS building thing . can't be an expert at everything and this is a pretty project for me.
I've only done small DIYS renovation projects up to now that didn't involve building anything substantial except when I put up a fence by myself . So - I'm on a very steep learning curve with the shed design and construction and want to get value for my money.
Heck we can't all be expert handymen and DIYSers ....
Anyway I've pretty much got what I want to do now ironed out , I've designed up and drawn up my wall frames, I've got what I think should work as for track structure , and I now looking at two options for roof
a) a concave circular segment shaped sheet roof and how to make it "structurally sound"
b) a gabel roof .
Once I've sorted my choice of roof profile and construction , it's matter of getting the slab layed with and 2 concrete piers in place , then getting all my materials quotes for the walls and external cladding (which ever looks cheapest and strongest and easiert to put on the walls) , the track structure , the roof structure , and then getting busy and erecting it around the piers.
I've not spent a penny on my shed yet , except the cost of making a few phone calls , f'ashing off a few faxes and a bit of petrol to look at shed displays.
I'll worry about insulating the walls and roof and lining these later.
Wont be running 220VAC to the shed , don't need it , everything in there will be powered by 12VDC .
How goes your project ?
got the slab down yet ?
What size shed did you settle on ?
Flat ? Skillion ? or gable roof ?
Concrete is easy to do yourself if you pre-mark all your levels and have some basic tools. Like any DIY, the more you do yourself the better the project pride!
Also don't forget to run any pipes under your slab out to your pier before you concrete if you dont want to trip over leads later. I used a 50m pipe so I could get cables with plugs on it threaded though and also a power point near the base of the pier is handy!!
I attached some pics of mine including the roller section if anyone is interested.
- Dave.
I'll be knicking some of your ideas from your shed ....
Never too proud to use other peoples' ideas or to pick other peoples' brains.
Wont be any AC power in my shed , all will run from 12VDC batteries.
youve got a lot of ideas to cover, my opinions on some issues are
1. framed solid roof is HEAVY but desirable as its less prone to wind, structure needs to be solid enough to support it
2. Wall height - high enough to walk into when closed ( just)
3. scope height- this is a balance between protection from wind and horizon level ( if its too low , limited chance for low objects, if high then wind can effect, bassnuts ideas have merit for auto use. i have mine so when at its LOWEST possible, the roof can just close.
4. thermal stability- mine is all timber with exception of roofing iron.
5. 3x3 is adequate for most uses, i get scope plus table in comfortably.
6. SCP is always visible well above wall height.
7. height of floor- to clear obstacles next door why not lift it and have a chipboard floor- just paint it to stop it from rotting.
Second quote for the same sized slab was a shocker ....
got
slab quote 1) = $1200
slab quote 2) = $2000 , same size slab as above , just moved nearer my northern boundary , pretty hard to see how such a difference can be justified (think he wants me to pay for his Xmas Holiday !!!).
An off ground timber platform is looking more attactive.
I'm currently building a garden shed 3 x 2.4m using the following:
150X50x2400 H4 treated pine @$10.41 each
150x50x3000 H4 @$15.12
I'm going to use 4 or 5 150X50X2400 for the joists so all up for that is around: $103.11
I had some round logs 90mm with I'm using for posts. However 90x90mm H4 3m posts, will probably set you back $30 - not sure exactly.
Chipboard (yellow tongue)3600 x 900 x 15mm = $36. I was going down the plywood path @$55 per sheet, but saved a few bucks with the YT. One side appears to be painted with clear stuff, the otherside raw chipboard. Even though my flooring will be off the ground by about 250mm, I'm planning of just putting a coat of bondcrete to seal it.
I cheated and used rapid set @ $5.60 per bag.
I guess all up its about $300 much cheaper than a concrete slab, its relatively easy to do.
PS: at the time of writing this, I've got 5 stitches on my left thumb after an accident with my drop saw . As such, I'm going to now have to supervise the other 1/2 on how to continue construction .
so if you go done this path - be careful with powertools, especially the ones with blades or teeth!
When complete I;m cladding it with colorbond corrugated iron. 762mm width at anywhere between $12-15 l/m - acutal width is 820-850mm (Lysaght, Stratco etc).
I'm currently building a garden shed 3 x 2.4m using the following:
150X50x2400 H4 treated pine @$10.41 each
150x50x3000 H4 @$15.12
I'm going to use 4 or 5 150X50X2400 for the joists so all up for that is around: $103.11
I had some round logs 90mm with I'm using for posts. However 90x90mm H4 3m posts, will probably set you back $30 - not sure exactly.
Chipboard (yellow tongue)3600 x 900 x 15mm = $36. I was going down the plywood path @$55 per sheet, but saved a few bucks with the YT. One side appears to be painted with clear stuff, the otherside raw chipboard. Even though my flooring will be off the ground by about 250mm, I'm planning of just putting a coat of bondcrete to seal it.
I cheated and used rapid set @ $5.60 per bag.
I guess all up its about $300 much cheaper than a concrete slab, its relatively easy to do.
PS: at the time of writing this, I've got 5 stitches on my left thumb after an accident with my drop saw . As such, I'm going to now have to supervise the other 1/2 on how to continue construction .
so if you go done this path - be careful with powertools, especially the ones with blades or teeth!
When complete I;m cladding it with colorbond corrugated iron. 762mm width at anywhere between $12-15 l/m - acutal width is 820-850mm (Lysaght, Stratco etc).
Cheers, Norm
Similar prices to that I've got from Belmont Bunnings.
I don't own a drop saw .... but do have a circular saw and a jig saw.
Quote: 1. framed solid roof is HEAVY but desirable as its less prone to wind, structure needs to be solid enough to support it Do you mean something like Spacemaker1000 (insulated roofing sheets) ?
i used stanard corrugated color bond with a thermal insulation under it ( the blue/silver stuff that will stop drips.) lots of timber trussess low profile.
Quote: 7. height of floor- to clear obstacles next door why not lift it and have a chipboard floor- just paint it to stop it from rotting. in the case of a timber off the ground deck/platform for a floor Wouldn't structural plywood be better ?
you could use the heavy duty form ply , id still paint it. i used yellow tounge chipboard, it has an allowance for minor dampness, i painted mine straight away , as its not open unless weather is clear it won't get soaked in a downpour, just a bit of dew. been good so far.
Best orientation for roof roller wheels for good load bearing and guiding ?
After a lot of ideas, he ended up using roller door guides and rollers as per another mate, to move a full gabled roof.
The track/wheels were a bit more exe than cheap wheels from bunnings
but it has positive locking, allows for a bit of play, is self aligning, very easy to weather seal and very easy to move.
Also has a very low profile
Second quote for the same sized slab was a shocker ....
got
slab quote 1) = $1200
slab quote 2) = $2000 , same size slab as above , just moved nearer my northern boundary , pretty hard to see how such a difference can be justified (think he wants me to pay for his Xmas Holiday !!!).
An off ground timber platform is looking more attactive.
I put my own slab in and I'm hardlya tradesman. I bought 100mm x 40mm timber x 4 at 4m as forming timber and 1 sheet of reo mesh to make a 3.5m square slab. This was about $100 delivered 10km out of town.
I nailed the wood to make a 3.5 m box and leveled it wit ha spirit level. It sat on some old bricks that I had at home and filled it in with crusher dust and plastic sheeting (also left over at home). This gave me a 100m thick slab. The contrete cost about $350 delivered. I leveled it with a 4.5m long piece of wood as a screed.
It doesn't have to be perfect as it is just a shed.
Looking at BillyD's construction . I like the garage roller rail and roller bearings idea a lot.
Unless I hire someone , I'll be working by myself . Any reason stopping the roof from being constructed on top of the rails and rollers and some kind of timber box frame ? (So long as the roof structure can be "locked" in posstion for assembly and cladding , by a couple of strong coach bolts each side say.)
I also noted that he had 5 roof trusses for a 4m long shed , is that overkill , I would have thought not more than 3 trusses would suffice for roof that length ?
The roof sheets will add considerable structural strength when attached as well as the two bracing times which will help stiffen it up along with the timbers the sheets will be screwed to.(I think ... I cheated a bit and looked at how my garage roof is assembled, it stood up the Newcastle Cyclone in June 2007 no problem).
See my proposed roof strut & base layout attached. How's that look ?
Last edited by Ian Robinson; 20-11-2008 at 05:35 PM.
- if they want it they will break in no matter what
. if you spend the extra for a welded single door and a handle lock you can add a hasp and padlock later. the insulation for the shed is a snap - and works out heaps cheaper - do your homework Ian, r3.75 foil bubblewrap from bunnings and some timber for basic framing and a staplegun and tape- the roof is very lightweight with a prefab shed. Mate i am surprised - you are supposed to be an engineer? Typical GB
getting someone to do the concrete - priceless - especially if you have NFI
you spent nearly a grand with your own quote for just mass concrete no reo, and labour is well worth it in this case. the timber framing screwed to the steel will be pretty solid. they only use a crappy piece of MDF on houses for framing integrity at the front. Save your money and get it done when you have the full amount
. As such, I'm going to now have to supervise the other 1/2 on how to continue construction 
.
