Chrys
all these simple "brick" converters are usually a little low on the output voltage...aka 11.8V. But the worst thing is the cable out is lets say 22 to 20 gauge at best (narrow gauge and probably not copper wire as well).
Copper wire resistance of 22 to 20 Gauge is at best 16/10 ohms per 1000ft ft =16/1000=.016 ohms per ft x 60 = .96 ohms over your cable....but your cable is there and return to the pwr source so double that rx = 1.92ohms total. Using an online calculator I get 1.973 ohms So I'm close enough.
Voltage is dropped over that cable because it has resistance. Easy to calculate...V=IR. Say you draw 1 amp = 1 x 1.92 = 1.92V lost in the cable. Using the online calc for 20 gauge I get 0.609 ohms over the cable, double for length = 1.2ohms so using above I get 1 x 1.2 = 1.2V dropped over the cable. So the cable and distance matters, it vampire sucks away you usable voltage.
So how much does the system draw...well you have a Mount and power box...so you are drawing at least that in current !
You stated you are measuring 11.1/11.2V....you are lucky to get this!. The Fix....bring the converter closer or use a larger diameter "copper" cable. Most of these converters use small gauge cable and since they come from a place that will use the cheapest parts....they don't even use copper in the cable.
The HEQ5 on its usable voltage range but it says 12-16VDC. So why not use a
DC/DC boost converter. Set it to output 16V DC...it'll be more efficient for the mount and you can negate cable losses.
Of course these are the fleabay ones I'd rather make my own (l
ike the Parallex version) using LM2587 or LM2588 but its not a cheap exercise . At least I know it would be a good unit and protected.
Hope this helps, the fleabay units work but reports on their reliability are somewhat "iffy"...depends I suppose.