Frayed power adaptor cables

[Swagman105 (Geoff)]

Anyone had problems like this and any good ideas for fixing it.

[AdamJL]

Stop gap = electrical tape
Longer term solution = heatshrink tubes?

[RB (Andrew)]

Originally Posted by Swagman105

Anyone had problems like this and any good ideas for fixing it.

Go to Bunnings and look for Loctite 3 x 5g Kintsuglue

https://www.bunnings.com.au/loctite-...white_p0074114

RB

[Swagman105 (Geoff)]

Originally Posted by RB

Go to Bunnings and look for Loctite 3 x 5g Kintsuglue

https://www.bunnings.com.au/loctite-...white_p0074114

RB

Looks like the solution.
Had heaps of these issues over the years not only with Astro related gear, so thanks for that.
Thanks Geoff

[RB (Andrew)]

Originally Posted by Swagman105

Looks like the solution.
Had heaps of these issues over the years not only with Astro related gear, so thanks for that.
Thanks Geoff

Works really well.

RB

[Swagman105 (Geoff)]

Went with the white colour to also provide some extra visibility. Feels much more secure now.

[Leo.G (Leo)]

Generally it's only the outer casing either shrinking a little or pulling away. Since my early teens I've simply stretched it out and back into place by hand in most applications. The only problem is it will do it again and again.

[wasyoungonce (Brendan)]

Best fix......crack open case, hand Drill thru or pull out old wire from the "strain relief tail" ....clean and pull thru un-frayed new wire, (coat it with liquid electrical tape from Jaycar)
Ensure you have enough wire pulled thru to resolder, use a cable zip tie to stop the cable pulling again. Let it dry reassemble.



The liquid electrical tape and zip tie will stop it moving again. An alternative is do the above but use glue lined heat shrink....Its damn good.

[Swagman105 (Geoff)]

Originally Posted by wasyoungonce

Best fix......crack open case, hand Drill thru or pull out old wire from the "strain relief tail" ....clean and pull thru un-frayed new wire, (coat it with liquid electrical tape from Jaycar)
Ensure you have enough wire pulled thru to resolder, use a cable zip tie to stop the cable pulling again. Let it dry reassemble.



The liquid electrical tape and zip tie will stop it moving again. An alternative is do the above but use glue lined heat shrink....Its damn good.

Thanks for that suggestion. Have been adverse to having a go at sealed electrical things and usually just throw them away.
My issue was that the conductor wires had not broken and I was just trying to add a layer of protection to prevent that.
I suppose if the wires had broken then no harm in opening the case to see if your suggestion could be implemented.
One remaining area of concern would be to ensure proper resealing of the case against moisture in dewy conditions.

[wasyoungonce (Brendan)]

Most of these are ABS which is easily re-welded with Acetone. I use a modelling paint brush and keep re-wetting till it’s perfect. Or I use hot melt weld with an old soldering iron tip. Works well.

Have done both methods on laptop PSUs. Adheres as good as new. Indeed most simple cases are glued together at a few points (there is usually a small inner lip). You can usually locate these strike with flat blade screwdriver to break that glue point. They usually come apart easily. Or can be “hot knife” cut apart

Acetone mixed with styrene can make a glue mix that adheres with many plastics. But not PVC or PLA.

[Leo.G (Leo)]

There are plenty of ABS cases which come with a rubber dust/moisture proof seal too and they are very affordable, also alloy jiffy boxes with the same and well worth looking into for any home projects.. I tend to purchase these for most outdoor related projects.
An old method for making wires pull proof from many boxes including speaker boxes and other electronic devices was tie a knot in the wire inside before feeding the wire out (or before connecting the terminals) or cable tying the cable to a chassis or circuit board hole. I was taught that in electronic trades mid to late 70s by an ld teacher at Ultimo TAFE. Then for mains cords there were the two half (joined by a flexible tab0 locks which i\were compressed using hydraulic/pneumatic or hand speciality pliers. They then expanded once inserted into the hole which was there to retain the cable. I used to put 400 on TV sets a day at both Rank NEC in Penrith and later an National Panasonic (Matsush!ta electric company (censor always picks up rude sh*t word in the middle but it was the company name back then) also in Penrith (NSW) I worked in TV set production/repairs/everything at both plants for 6 years after leaving school while studying 4 nights per week for my technicians qualifications. I still remove them from any old set I find and keep them here in case I have a need to lock a cable in place (power cables). Item as imaged below
I'm not even sure whether they are still used but they never failed and were always a problem to remove without the right tool.

Acetone mixed with styrene can make a glue mix that adheres with many plastics. But not PVC or PLA.

It can also make the most amazing mountain ranges pn model train layouts, drizzle the acetone to dissolve small amounts of the polystyrene. I did this on my sons little z or N gauge set back in 2001 when my son was only 5 or 6, it looked great with a little paint and araldite with colouring mixed for a water run off down the mountain side. The rest of the tunnel was toilet paper over chicken wire and paint to adhere it.