I'm looking to possibly build a 40 Watt co2 laser cutter/engraver. This will be a very slow project as I acquire the bits and pieces I need over an extended period of time (pension). Were I to have the spare $5K+ laying around I'd just buy one but I don't. The unit will be capable cutting of 600x400 sized material.
Does anyone have experience building such a beast and any pointers on what to do and what not to do?
I have bought a little CNC machine from Vevor, just a toy really, but, gives a good idea of how things can be done. Also, slowly building something bigger and better.
The reason I mention this, is that Vevor also have laser engravers.
While this is smaller and less powerful than you are after, I believe it will be possible use the same electronics on a bigger frame and swap the laser for a more powerful unit.
Of course, you would also want to build a box for it, with an interlock for the power for safety reasons.
There are a fair number of forums out there, so happy hunting.
Thanks Philip!
I primarily want it for cutting acrylic but for a start I want to play with just burning lots of little indents in acrylic, CNC would be great.
The majority of the frame and electronics I can do, or pick up reasonably cheap. Though a smaller unit may do for what I want for a start.
Light guide plate for back-lighting images is what I want to do, to purchase the plate already done is dearer than stripping out a decent quality light board (copy/tracing board, whatever they call the things).
That looks really interesting and is something I was not aware of. I'll be interested in knowing how you go with it.
One of my, too many, projects, is converting an old Gravograph engraver to a real real CNC machine. If I manage to get it running the way I want, swapping the CNC motor for a laser should be simple enough. Then I would also need a box and interlock.
Finding a 50 watt co2 laser tube for under $100 new may yet be the key and my son found one in Aus with free freight.
Buying bits and pieces as affordable is what we'll do, a nice PSU yet to be found but we'll search Aliexpress for multiple things like mirrors and power supplies. NEMA steppers aren't overly expensive there either and there are some good quality units available (and some very cheap ones, no idea how they work.
The laser diode type machine you linked to won't cut acrylic, I need a co2 laser for that purpose.
My son suggested trying thick steel under acrylic sheet and a plasma cutter which I own but I think it would more melt the acrylic than cut it cleanly.
I had typed a reply and hit the STUPID back button on my mouse on the end of the keyboard and it disappeared, I HATE computers, I think I HATE my current mouse worse, never had the problem with any former mouse.
Neville is there any specific form of fume extraction you recommend?
Is it a filtered system required?
I would imagine it would have to be filtered on the output or the room would become toxic fast.
My main experience with acrylic was making display cases for shops (photography shops) back in the early 90s. I was using chloroform to provide the clear, seamless joints (only way to get such joints at the time) and even with fume extraction it created problems breathing in the fumes. I had the materials cut and bent if necessary by my supplier at the time, I didn't have provision to do either and it wasn't costly to have it cut and bent compared to purchasing the required equipment (it was just something I did to help friends with photography stores, not a business as such).
The laser module itself I'm not sure on the specs, I have no experience with this type of laser head. I've played with a few laser diodes for other purposes over the years but nothing like this.
Leo,
I have to admit that the unit I have is a 100W full industrial system.
By that I mean it came with a humongous fume extraction system that I vent to the outside, a proper refrigeration system to cool the tube water, and a small blower to push air over the lens area to keep it clean.
(This was my big retirement present to myself)
I'd suggest something at least to the standard of welding fume removal, with filters as appropriate. I believe there are also systems for use by nail salons-they're quit fum-ey.
I'd also suggest the refrigeration pathway. Some people simply use a bucket of cold water and feed the pump lines through that, but it quickly warms up and efficiency drops off.
Finally, the tube you linked to is peak rated at 50W. If you use it at that power, it probably won't last long. My branded '100W laser' has a 120W tube, with the instruction to only use as much power as you need.
It is more likely that the 50W will give about 40-45, and the 40W about 30-35.
Not wanting to dissuade you at all, it's a great project. I've made a CNC metal milling machine, a CNC foam cutter (for wings) and a CNC router myself.
Gives you a great sense of achievement when they produce something!
Thanks again Philip and Neville!
I'd love a system like yours Neville but don't have the money. Ideally, I will only be using it for cutting acrylic up to 4-6mm maximum and messing with burning little dots in the back (light guide plate). Cutting and polishing the edges I can already do without the laser (varying stages of wet and dry and a good application of Silvo does wonders, Brasso for finer scratches).
I already bought the tube, saw it cheap and decided I could afford that as a start and build something around it.
I'm quite familiar with welding fume extraction, in my late 30s I studied fabrication engineering (welding). I've also looked into the water chillers (also used in welding machines), that came up while chatting with my son last night, he'd seen them recommended.
While basically cheaping out and doing this on a very restrictive budget (disability pension) time isn't an issue, I'm in no rush.
I have a milling machine at my disposal (when I finally get to welding a stand for it) and a lathe, the milling machine isn't CNC but that is in the planning stages too.
I'm also familiar with the concept of purchasing decent power supplies for projects like this, I originally had a background in electronics but added electrical, welding, machining, hydraulics and pneumatics, IT and few other bits and pieces with a former desire to get into mechatronics. My health doesn't particularly lend itself to a lot of what I'd like to do.
I'll definitely take photos of my build when I get to it.
I've done a little research and everyone seems to use V slot for every bit of the frame. It really seemed to make little sense when they then screw a linear rail on top for the movement of any axis. V Slot 2020 is far from cheap purchased in one metre lengths.
My son suggested I fire up the TIG welder and re-learn how to use the thing for aluminium and use aluminium box section for the bulk of the frame (I can use steel and can MIG or stick weld it). I can basically buy a 6.5 metre length of aluminium square hollow section for the price of a one metre length of V Slot.
I guess I better buy the 4030 filler rods, the things I purchased locally don't stick to any alloy I have here (mostly 6061) but that's probably a more "I can't see the weld pool with my vision" problem than filler rod problem. Even with an expensive auto helmet and glasses on I struggle to see a weld pool with any welder.
There's always rivnuts.....
Thanks again Neville!
Yes, if funds are limitless V-slot would be the go, easy to work with but I can weld steel (I used to be considered an excellent TIG capable welder with aluminium over 20 years ago when I had better sight).
I can get the 25mm square hollow section in alloy cheap enough new in 6.5 metre lengths from memory, I have a cylinder full of pure Argon and a near new AC/DC TIG welder I can't remember how to use.
If I can get my eye in I should be fine and I have plenty of scrap to practice on if the weather fines up again.
Otherwise it's steel box section and the MIG or arc welder. Steel isn't an issue weight wise because it will be on good castors (likely) but won't be something I'd be moving, just sitting in one corner for use.
As mentioned, I have a lathe and mill at my fingertips but the mill needs a stand. I purchased a separate compound table for the unit and lost the lay out I drew to make a stand to suite while I had the table at an engineers to be drilled and tapped. I play with anything but cast iron, I hate the stuff with a passion, whether welding or drilling and tapping it. It was easier to get a friend with all of the equipment and a lot of experience to do it and throw him some dollars for his time.
What really confused me with all of the V-slot material I saw used in various home projects, the people didn't use it with a carriage as intended, they secured slides with a separate bearing roller unit.
It seems like it was all for show for the project list but using linear rails to carry the load instead.
This is a BIG rabbit hole I'm finding.
I'm trying to figure out mirror diameters, lens thicknesses/profiles WOW.
If only I'd bothered learning to read when I was a kid, probably too late nearing mid 60s I guess......
To the mention of decent power supplies and Meanwell units, I have this beautiful Meanwell 24 volt 21A power supply I'd purchased from RS online when I grabbed one or two 12 volt units for other peoples equipment, fixing one friends (sort of/was) business security system, wiring up a massive supply for Christmas lighting at another former associates house. I had no need for the 12 volt units at the time but grabbed a bargain 24V unit for later use, then around $150 odd. Now the same 24V power supply on RS components is $470+
I have no idea what happened.
BUT, searching for suitable stepper motors for this project and another of my sons projects we came across Stepperonline on AliExpress.
We liked this particular seller because every stepper has a torque curve graph. Now we've gone to their own site where it's cheaper for me to purchase 3 NEMA 17 steppers with controllers (once I make up my mind) and found they have a HUGE range of not only stepper motors but also a lot of related equipment including the Meanwell power supplies.
Their prices are AMAZING and I'd strongly recommend anyone chasing a particular power supply to check their prices first.
Absolutely no affiliation but prices like these I've not seen in Aus anywhere for some time.
Pity they aren't called laseronline, I'd get that power supply too (they don't carry laser power supplies)....
I've ordered the laser power supply, mirrors and a laser head/lens, all from AliExpress while they have a sale on (anniversary sale I believe). I saved a considerable sum of money and just hoping everything is right for my intended purposes.
Once it gets here I'll start designing a cabinet. Though my son showed me a video yesterday of a vertical unit and I'm thinking a design like that would definitely have a smaller footprint in my limited space.
For quite some time I have laser cutter in my plans for.. whenever.
Laser is 2W (violet-blue) unit (so, perhaps adequate for engraving plastic and/or paper)...
I plan to use GRBL code (running on Arduino CNC3 h/w) or Repetier (for Arduino MEGA + RAMPS14).
The mechanics on picture was designed for coordinate drill (that is why Z-axis is there) so it will be universal contraption..
That looks neat!
I'm not sure whether the laser diodes themselves cut plastics or engrave them well, I know they are good on glass.
That's why I went with the CO2 unit, only a 50 watt unit to start because it was affordable. I've purchased a power supply capable of powering a 100 watt laser should I decide to upgrade in the future if I need more power.
My son suggested the same bed for my plasma cutter, CNC controlled but the plasma cutter creates a lot of splatter, I don't think I'd want it where mirrors and other optics are. I'll figure it out later, I don't use it much and am happy to hand cut when I do. I do need a set of guide rollers for the plasma though, my free hand is not what it used to be.
I like the Arduino, I don't play with them but my son has spent many hours with them and has several. I have a new Raspberry Pi 4 here I don't use, hopefully my son will. I get confused, I studied PLC's and am familiar with ladder logic and control but writing libraries escapes my abilities. Though PLC's are far out of my price range just to play, the little PIC's are a huge advancement for home users and cost efficient in comparison.
