Hello all...
Looking to sort out a darks library in near future.
I need a digital thermometer to read air temp to get accuracy in sorting out a matched set of darks.
Found this (very cheap - $2.71AU)) unit on ebay... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Digital-LCD-T...item3a5444150d
Would that be OK to get accurate air temp readings?
Or can anyone recommend something else - I can go up to $3
Cheers
Doug
Jaycar have a few different ones. I was looking at one that showed air temp plus temp from an attached probe that you could stick on a tube and they had them in large or small LCD sizes. It was more than 3 dollars
Jaycar have a few different ones. I was looking at one that showed air temp plus temp from an attached probe that you could stick on a tube and they had them in large or small LCD sizes. It was more than 3 dollars
Cheers Robin, I'll check out the Jaycar site too
Doug
Cheers Steve - don't need anything too sophisticated.
Sensor in the DSLR will have to be assumed to be roughly close to air temp for purposes of acquiring a darks library. So, air temp is all that's needed.
Cheers
Doug
Wouldn't the CCD temperature be higher than ambient air temperature depending on the length of exposures and the frequency of images taken ?
On my DSLR there is a noticeable increase in temperature if I take lots of images and long exposures.
Also the temperature effects are much worse in the corner where all the readouts occur.
Whereas with a cooled CCD the excess heat is being removed constantly and you dont get the same variation across a CCD.
Thus I would have thought that a laser thermometer would work better - more awkward but at least its reading the temperature off the front surface of the CCD (with shutter open)
Not sure how you manage an imaging session though.
rally your dead right with that one, though i wouldn't want to be shining a laser onto my Cmos sensor!!!! As for taking shots, i dunno about most people but i take mine continuously and generally at 10 min exposures all controlled by PC, as for the Cmos being hotter than ambient yes thats right, but its a function of ambient temp alone. as the amb goes up so does the sensor, so as long as your shooting methods don't change drastically, ambient is just fine.!
Just my opinion, but, building dark libraries for DSLR images is a no go.
DSLR sensors aren't as "reliable" as dedicated cooled CCDs. In that they're a lot more susceptible to random artifacting and phenomena such as stuck, hot and/or cold pixels developing over time.
Up to you in the end, but, I'm a bit anal about this and would prefer to do my darks at the time of shooting (before, during and after and median combine the lot for a very close average of what your sensor experienced on that night).
No two nights are going to exhibit exactly the same conditions as far as climate/weather goes.
I guess it just depends on how accurate you want to be. Bear in mind, I know how much of a pain in the rear doing darks is.
Up to you in the end, but, I'm a bit anal about this and would prefer to do my darks at the time of shooting (before, during and after and median combine the lot for a very close average of what your sensor experienced on that night).
How many darks do you take during a session?
I imaged last night and took 16x5min shots all with ICNR.
Obviously without ICNR I could have doubled my number.
So, how many darks would one need to take over the imaging session above (for example) to effectively achieve similar noise reduction to the ICNR method?
Just my opinion, but, building dark libraries for DSLR images is a no go.
DSLR sensors aren't as "reliable" as dedicated cooled CCDs. In that they're a lot more susceptible to random artifacting and phenomena such as stuck, hot and/or cold pixels developing over time.
H
Have to agree with H on this one. When I used a DSLR, I never used ICNR but prefered to take my darks while I was packing up. Just left the camera with the timer set for 10 x N min and let it do its thing. After packing everything away, most of the darks had been accumulated.
But thats what worked for me.
Deals extreme looks like a Hong Kong company as well, so you would have freight issues. I noticed the 200mw red laser for less than $30, imagine trying to get that into Australia.
i've found a lot of thermometers to be pretty unreliable under typical astro conditions.. once the dew/frost kicks in they often show temperatures that are clearly way lower than real ambient temp.
i'd mount your thermometer under your observing table or something similar so that it stays dry (less dew) but still gives you a good reading of 'ambient'.
there's quite an art to getting an accurate measure even of something that seems as simple as ambient temp.. a stevenson screen from a weather station would be a good start
Deals extreme looks like a Hong Kong company as well, so you would have freight issues
Peter,
I've never had any problems buying stuff from DX. Shipping has always been free. In fact I already have one of those TEMPer things from them. It's also a good source for Laptop PC cards (e.g. Serial and USB), HDMI cables and Flashlights etc.
once you start racking up a half decent number of dark frames, the % noise you are adding to the image will get low pretty quick. if you're chasing perfection, then you'll need a lot to get down to less than 0.5% but it will get very hard to notice the difference.
but we're losing sight of the forest for the trees.. doubling your real exposure time by not using ICNR is the biggest benefit!
dark frames can only ever reduce the pattern noise in an image. all the random noise cannot be helped.. the reason you need a lot of dark frames is to subtract the noise that has some pattern/repeatability to it without making the random noise significantly worse. hope that makes sense..
as for the Cmos being hotter than ambient yes thats right, but its a function of ambient temp alone. as the amb goes up so does the sensor, so as long as your shooting methods don't change drastically, ambient is just fine.!
Totally agree with this, it is all relative, CMOS temp will always follow the outside temp. If you try specialise cooling methods then you will only need to measure sensor temp and not the ambient.