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25-09-2021, 03:24 PM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 527
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Guidescope advice
Hi all,
I am new to astroimaging and am looking to get a guidescope for my NEQ6 pro. Any things I need to look out for?
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25-09-2021, 04:29 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: sydney
Posts: 1,834
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stephane
Hi all,
I am new to astroimaging and am looking to get a guidescope for my NEQ6 pro. Any things I need to look out for?
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The mount is not really relevant here, it would help if you mentioned the scope you will be using.
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25-09-2021, 05:13 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Sydney and South Coast NSW
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Guide scopes will generally work fine where your main imaging scope has a focal length under 1200mm
Any thing over that an OAG is advisable
I image with 900mm and 1000mm focal lengths ( newts ) and both scopes use an Orion 60mm guide scope with helical focuser ( guide camera is a ZWOASI120MM-S USB3 ) Both rigs guide beautifully on their EQ6-R pro mounts
Cheers
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27-09-2021, 02:28 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Thanks Zuts, I am planning on using a Bintel BT200 200/800 f/4.
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27-09-2021, 02:30 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2021
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Thanks Martin! My focal length is 800 mm, so I guess that'll work fine.
I am thinking of getting a ZWO ASI120 mm.
Cheers,
Stéphane
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27-09-2021, 03:04 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Sydney and South Coast NSW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stephane
Thanks Martin! My focal length is 800 mm, so I guess that'll work fine.
I am thinking of getting a ZWO ASI120 mm.
Cheers,
Stéphane
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Hi Stephanie,
Take this with a grain of salt if you wish but be advised that an f4 scope is not a beginner scope ( not quite sure of your experience) With fairly fast optics it will be more difficult to collimate and set up your imaging gear than an f5 which I use ( BT 200 f5 ) I also use use a Bintel 6” f6 which is gem to image with. I’ve been imaging for 4 years and would never consider using an f4 scope. My Bintel 8” f5 ( 1000mm focal length) is more than adequate to image most objects in the night sky and is ever so much more forgiving in regards to Collimation and set up of your imaging gear. At f4, Coma will be a struggle to correct as a beginner.
If you’ve had some experience in imaging then ignore my suggestions and recommendations above
Good luck and I hope it all works out for you in the end
Enjoy our amazing hobby
Clear Skies
Martin
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27-09-2021, 03:10 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Melbourne,Australia
Posts: 1,439
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Startrek
Hi Stephanie,
Take this with a grain of salt if you wish but be advised that an f4 scope is not a beginner scope ( not quite sure of your experience) With fairly fast optics it will be more difficult to collimate and set up your imaging gear than an f5 which I use ( BT 200 f5 ) I also use use a Bintel 6” f6 which is gem to image with. I’ve been imaging for 4 years and would never consider using an f4 scope. My Bintel 8” f5 ( 1000mm focal length) is more than adequate to image most objects in the night sky and is ever so much more forgiving in regards to Collimation and set up of your imaging gear. At f4, Coma will be a struggle to correct as a beginner.
If you’ve had some experience in imaging then ignore my suggestions and recommendations above
Good luck and I hope it all works out for you in the end
Enjoy our amazing hobby
Clear Skies
Martin
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+1 . From someone who has that exact telescope.
As far as guiding it goes. I use a ZWO 60mm guide scope with a ZWO 120MM mini and it guides beautifully. With that setup, guiding it will not be your issue.
Cheers
Ryan
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27-09-2021, 03:16 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Hi Martin,
Thanks for the advice. I am a complete beginner in photography, I haven't actually bought the telescope yet. I saw I would need a coma corrector for f/4 which I assume would fix coma? Expensive though... I also got a collimator laser for $30 on ebay and watched a couple of Youtube videos on how to collimate.
So do you need a coma corrector for the bintel f/5 or f/6? If not, I might go for that option instead as it is much cheaper and more forgiving.
Cheers,
Stéphane
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27-09-2021, 03:32 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Hi Stephanie,
For what it's worth I have, and wouldn't part with, my 800mm f4 Newtonian. You do have to add the cost of a good f4 coma corrector, like the skywatcher f4 Aplanatic coma corrector and some collimation tools but you get to collect data quite fast. You could look at a 6" or 8" GSO scope to save some money there too. Regardless of Newtonian, you will need a coma corrector, and i think a good quality one will last a long time & through several scope changes.
Caveat: I did have photography experience prior... if you're new to photography, a refractor is regarded as the easiest to start with.
To answer your question though, have a 60mm f4 (240mm focal length) SVBony Guidescope. Works well enough. Rule of thumb is your guide scope focal length should be no less than 1/4 of your main scope focal length.
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27-09-2021, 03:41 PM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emuhead
Hi Stephanie,
For what it's worth I have, and wouldn't part with, my 800mm f4 Newtonian. You do have to add the cost of a good f4 coma corrector, like the skywatcher f4 Aplanatic coma corrector and some collimation tools but you get to collect data quite fast. You could look at a 6" or 8" GSO scope to save some money there too. Regardless of Newtonian, you will need a coma corrector, and i think a good quality one will last a long time & through several scope changes.
Caveat: I did have photography experience prior... if you're new to photography, a refractor is regarded as the easiest to start with.
To answer your question though, have a 60mm f4 (240mm focal length) SVBony Guidescope. Works well enough. Rule of thumb is your guide scope focal length should be no less than 1/4 of your main scope focal length.
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Awesome, thanks Andrew. I think I will stick with a Newtonian, just need to decide what speed I want.
Your replies are all appreciated. Many thanks.
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27-09-2021, 03:55 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Sydney and South Coast NSW
Posts: 6,289
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Stephanie,
You will still have some coma in the corners of your field using f5 or f6 but at this stage you could image without a coma corrector and purchase it later on
My advice for a beginner, since your heading for a newtonian reflector imaging set up ( like I started with and still use ) would be the following options -
Option 1
6" f5 Bintel Newtonian reflector or 6" f6 Bintel Newtonian reflector ( have Don replace the existing single speed focuser with a dual speed focuser which is a must for imaging, he replaced the focuser on my 6" f6 to dual speed for a small additional cost )
Mount - Skywatcher HEQ5 or Saxon HEQ5
Guide scope - 50mm or 60mm ( I use the Orion 60mm with helical focuser )
Guide camera ZWOASI120MM-S USB3
Main imaging camera - any second hand APS- C DSLR like a Canon 450D, 80D or 600D etc... You will need a Canon EOS T Ring adapter
Use a DSLR to get some experience for a year or two and then maybe progress to a dedicated CMOS cooled camera
Option 2
Same Telescopes , cameras etc...as above but with a bigger more superior mount to future proof your imaging for years and years to come
Mount- Skywatcher EQ6-R pro
Option 3 ( future proof option )
8' f5 Bintel Newtonian reflector
Mount - Skywatcher EQ6-R pro
Guide scope - Orion 60mm with helical focuser
Guide camera ZWOASI120MM-S USB3
Same imaging camera
Warning: Astrophotography is a money pit , so be prepared. The above set ups are under $5K which is roughly entry level costs ( even with just a good DSLR, tracker and Lenses etc..for wide field work will cost you up to $5k and more )
Hope the above is helpful
Maybe other folk have different suggestions and advice
Cheers
Martin
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27-09-2021, 04:05 PM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 527
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Startrek
Stephanie,
You will still have some coma in the corners of your field using f5 or f6 but at this stage you could image without a coma corrector and purchase it later on
My advice for a beginner, since your heading for a newtonian reflector imaging set up ( like I started with and still use ) would be the following options -
Option 1
6" f5 Bintel Newtonian reflector or 6" f6 Bintel Newtonian reflector ( have Don replace the existing single speed focuser with a dual speed focuser which is a must for imaging, he replaced the focuser on my 6" f6 to dual speed for a small additional cost )
Mount - Skywatcher HEQ5 or Saxon HEQ5
Guide scope - 50mm or 60mm ( I use the Orion 60mm with helical focuser )
Guide camera ZWOASI120MM-S USB3
Main imaging camera - any second hand APS- C DSLR like a Canon 450D, 80D or 600D etc... You will need a Canon EOS T Ring adapter
Use a DSLR to get some experience for a year or two and then maybe progress to a dedicated CMOS cooled camera
Option 2
Same Telescopes , cameras etc...as above but with a bigger more superior mount to future proof your imaging for years and years to come
Mount- Skywatcher EQ6-R pro
Option 3 ( future proof option )
8' f5 Bintel Newtonian reflector
Mount - Skywatcher EQ6-R pro
Guide scope - Orion 60mm with helical focuser
Guide camera ZWOASI120MM-S USB3
Same imaging camera
Warning: Astrophotography is a money pit , so be prepared. The above set ups are under $5K which is roughly entry level costs ( even with just a good DSLR, tracker and Lenses etc..for wide field work will cost you up to $5k and more )
Hope the above is helpful
Maybe other folk have different suggestions and advice
Cheers
Martin
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Martin, thanks so much, that is really helpful.
The EQ6-R pro mount is quite a bit more expensive than the NEQ6 pro mount that was recommended to me. Would the NEQ6 pro do the job? What are the pros of the EQ6-R?
I made a new post about someone selling an old CGEM mount. Since it is so much more cheaper than a new mount, I am considering it. Anything I should know or look out for before buying a second-hand mount? (Feel free to respond in the thread "Mount advice").
Thanks again
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27-09-2021, 06:04 PM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Sydney and South Coast NSW
Posts: 6,289
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stephane
Martin, thanks so much, that is really helpful.
The EQ6-R pro mount is quite a bit more expensive than the NEQ6 pro mount that was recommended to me. Would the NEQ6 pro do the job? What are the pros of the EQ6-R?
I made a new post about someone selling an old CGEM mount. Since it is so much more cheaper than a new mount, I am considering it. Anything I should know or look out for before buying a second-hand mount? (Feel free to respond in the thread "Mount advice").
Thanks again
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The EQ6-R pro is a belt driven on Ra and Dec with worm drives and is a proven performer across the globe with minimal backlash , low periodic error and smooth quiet operation. The EQ6 is a good mount and has been a workhorse for a decade or more but IMO not in the same class as the EQ6-R. The EQ6 is gear driven on Ra and Dec so it’s an old design which is ok but they seem to have a lot of backlash issues which is hard to minimise. A lot of folk install belt mod kits to the HEQ5 and EQ6 as they are always trying to minimise backlash to improve their guiding. To me the extra $500 to $600 on the EQ6-R is definitely worth it , without a doubt !!! The EQ6-R is an excellent mount and proven performer
In relation to buying second hand mounts you need some guiding performance data on the mount otherwise you could be buying someone else’s problems
( no different from buying a second hand car )
Cheers
Martin
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27-09-2021, 06:25 PM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Sydney and South Coast NSW
Posts: 6,289
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Startrek
The EQ6-R pro is a belt driven on Ra and Dec with worm drives and is a proven performer across the globe with minimal backlash , low periodic error and smooth quiet operation. The EQ6 is a good mount and has been a workhorse for a decade or more but IMO not in the same class as the EQ6-R. The EQ6 is gear driven on Ra and Dec so it’s an old design which is ok but they seem to have a lot of backlash issues which is hard to minimise. A lot of folk install belt mod kits to the HEQ5 and EQ6 as they are always trying to minimise backlash to improve their guiding. To me the extra $500 to $600 on the EQ6-R is definitely worth it , without a doubt !!! The EQ6-R is an excellent mount and proven performer
In relation to buying second hand mounts you need some guiding performance data on the mount otherwise you could be buying someone else’s problems
( no different from buying a second hand car )
Cheers
Martin
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Stephane,
My final advice is take your time and don’t rush in and buy
Research the hobby , look at YouTube clips on astrophotography , ask more questions on this forum etc... Read other forums etc...
I took 8 months before I bought my first telescope
Cheers
Martin
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27-09-2021, 09:41 PM
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Registered User
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Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 527
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Startrek
Stephane,
My final advice is take your time and don’t rush in and buy
Research the hobby , look at YouTube clips on astrophotography , ask more questions on this forum etc... Read other forums etc...
I took 8 months before I bought my first telescope
Cheers
Martin
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Thanks again, Martin. Can't tell you how much this has been useful. I would rather fork out an extra $600 and get it right from day 1, than save a little but then regret buying the wrong mount.
One more question re coma corrector. I am now considering the f/5 or f/6 bintel, rather than the f/4. Is there still coma that needs correcting at slower speeds? Would you recommend me getting a coma corrector? I guess there's no rush. I can try, and if there is coma and I hate my images, I can always buy one...
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27-09-2021, 09:58 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Perth
Posts: 209
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Anything faster than F6 is generally improved by a CC but some go without on F5. I would recommend getting one for an F5 especially for AP with a sensor 1" or larger. The SkyWatcher f4 Aplanatic Coma Corrector mentioned here is the one I would recommend, very good performance, moderate price and no magnification. Coma correctors work best on their rated speed or slower so if you get the F5 skywatcher CC you won't be happy with it if you upgrade your scope. Buy once cry once.
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28-09-2021, 08:36 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 527
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunslayr
Anything faster than F6 is generally improved by a CC but some go without on F5. I would recommend getting one for an F5 especially for AP with a sensor 1" or larger. The SkyWatcher f4 Aplanatic Coma Corrector mentioned here is the one I would recommend, very good performance, moderate price and no magnification. Coma correctors work best on their rated speed or slower so if you get the F5 skywatcher CC you won't be happy with it if you upgrade your scope. Buy once cry once.
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Thanks David, really appreciate these comments.
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