I have two of these and i think that they are a brilliant camera for the price, producing good results. What i do have is a dust moate/ crud problem with both. Every single time i go to use these cameras i have to clean the sensor, even after i leave it on the scope overnight ready for use the next day for solar work. its driving me nuts. i am thinking that its the cruddy black foamy stuff surrounding the sensor (in front). do thay need to have the black foam there? can it be removed? should it be removed?
I've heard from others already they are a filthy camera in this respect..Even new they come with a heap of dust apparently ..Not sure about the removal of said foam..
The unit that I purchased direct from ZWO (amazingly quick and reliable delivery) arrived with heaps of debris which took me over half a dozen attempts (wet cleaning) to remove.
During the cleaning process, I noticed that red powder from the anodized threads was probably contributing to this.
I have 2 or 3 stubborn spots that will not budge, so I assume that they are on one of the surfaces underneath the glass protective cover.
The rate of debris settling has reduced so I only have to clean every 4 or 5 uses now, which is a little frustrating as the Tak mount is so good that I have to force it to dither to eliminate these spots in the stacking.
thanks for replying - i wonder what we could do to fix the proiblem - deconstruct and clean the reassemble?
Hi Dave
If you have previously removed all the crud by cleaning the top (exposed) surface of the protective glass window, then the source of the debris is not inside the camera chamber.
I haven’t inspected the camera body yet, but it would only be worth cracking open if the source of contaminant was on the underside of the glass, or on the surface of the chip itself.
I think that there may be a Yahoo group for this camera? If so, it might be worth posting a message there?
If you have previously removed all the crud by cleaning the top (exposed) surface of the protective glass window, then the source of the debris is not inside the camera chamber.
I haven’t inspected the camera body yet, but it would only be worth cracking open if the source of contaminant was on the underside of the glass, or on the surface of the chip itself.
I think that there may be a Yahoo group for this camera? If so, it might be worth posting a message there?
Cheers
Dennis
Ta Dennis - will do but i knew there were quite a few that dropped a doller on these here
In terms of build quality, the DMK’s feel more rugged and I have not had the same problem with the periodic and so far continuous dust/debris problems that I have experienced with the ASI120MM, but then the DMK’s are twice the price.
Hi again guys. I know when I first received all my Imaging Source cameras over the years, I've had to sit down & clean one or two bunnies off but nothing like you are describing here. I ended up stripping my DBK & actually blowing everything down with a compressor, taking care NOT to hit the sensor of course! The coverplate is very hard to scratch ordinarily but not impervious to a hit from a foreign body at high speed..
I also received a dud DBK back a few years ago..A 3 bunnies refused to budge after it's 1st 2nd & 3rd clean telling me it was under the coverplate where it was impossible to get to without major disassembly...major disassembly that would have voided the warranty, so off it went back to the place of purchase after the 2 week, back & forth email crap fight of course, & it was replaced..
The dust spots may be more difficult to see when used as a guide camera for deep sky, but when imaging extended bright objects such as the Sun and Moon then they become quite visible. Flat Field frames will calibrate them out, but it is a real nuisance if they keep coming back.
I noticed that as I unscrewed the nosepiece to clean the glass, small specks of loose red anodisation material were plastered all over the threads, so I used a cloth with IPA to thoroughly clean the threaded body to remove the loose flakes.
However, even with the UV/IR filter permanently fitted on the nosepiece, I still get debris appearing in the FOV and have to clean the camera every 4 to 6 outings, even though it is stored capped, in a clean, small plastic box.
The dust spots may be more difficult to see when used as a guide camera for deep sky, but when imaging extended bright objects such as the Sun and Moon then they become quite visible. Flat Field frames will calibrate them out, but it is a real nuisance if they keep coming back.
I noticed that as I unscrewed the nosepiece to clean the glass, small specks of loose red anodisation material were plastered all over the threads, so I used a cloth with IPA to thoroughly clean the threaded body to remove the loose flakes.
However, even with the UV/IR filter permanently fitted on the nosepiece, I still get debris appearing in the FOV and have to clean the camera every 4 to 6 outings, even though it is stored capped, in a clean, small plastic box.
Cheers
Dennis
and that is what i am on about. might try to clean the threads Dennis - that sounds like a good idea
I've got the UV/IR fitted inside the T thread section of the camera - not on the end of the nosepiece. Is that what others are doing?
Hi Peter
I fitted my UV/IR filter at the end of the nosepiece based on a belief that any dust on the UV/IR filter surfaces would be so OOF that far away from the chip that they should not affect the image.
Hi everyone. I too have an ASI120MM and suffer from those dreaded motes. They were there from new. I keep my UV filter in the nose piece all the time and only remove it to fit the wide angle camera for Meteor hunting. I will attempt a clean after some more research and obtaining the gear needed.
Finally got around to taking a pic - this is how I've got my UV/IR filter installed - it not on the end of a nosepiece - is this how others have done it?
Finally got around to taking a pic - this is how I've got my UV/IR filter installed - it not on the end of a nosepiece - is this how others have done it?