Face mounting images

[Peter Ward]

I have recently gone down a rabbit hole which involves mounting photographic prints on to the back of acrylic blocks/sheets.

In smaller formats I've had some success, but still get what they call "silvering" which is basically small bubbles or a less than prefect seal between the print surface and acrylic sheet, which is now the new "surface" to the image.

Google and Youtube have proved to be less than useful in finding a process that works, other than a seriously expensive large format film/press/rollers.

I'm almost at the point of simply using a lab/commercial provider.....but would be very grateful for any pointers here on DIY process that works to a professional (aka flawless) standard.

[Peter Ward]

Humm...near on 60 looks but no insights?

To be fair, I suspect this question should have been posted on a graphic arts forum.

[Leo.G (Leo)]

With decals (and some electronics development) I've used a slippery medium (dish washing liquid) to slide the decal/negative into place without trapping air. Back when I was putting expensive decal sets on newly sprayed forklifts, the old pin in the air hole worked wonders too and wasn't visible, along with a good sponge to push the air out the holes. Removing an incorrectly placed decal meant a full respray for the new forklift (Forklift technician at TNT Forklifts in Mascot many years back and got to do lots of HORRIBLE jobs). All new forklifts got a full respray before delivery.


This may or may not help, sorry, it's the best I have.

[Peter Ward]

Originally Posted by Leo.G

With decals (and some electronics development) I've used a slippery medium (dish washing liquid) to slide the decal/negative into place without trapping air. Back when I was putting expensive decal sets on newly sprayed forklifts, the old pin in the air hole worked wonders too and wasn't visible, along with a good sponge to push the air out the holes. Removing an incorrectly placed decal meant a full respray for the new forklift (Forklift technician at TNT Forklifts in Mascot many years back and got to do lots of HORRIBLE jobs). All new forklifts got a full respray before delivery.


This may or may not help, sorry, it's the best I have.

Thanks Leo. It's been an interesting quest, I think I'm converging on a solution by using an application fluid (think car window tinting) but have noticed the edges of the acrylic block still show some sivering. Pressure release film seems to be the "standard" but requires a clean room environment and lamination rollers...plus the film adhesive is rather expensive. Hence I'm still experimenting.

[joshman (Josh)]

what about a paint roller to assist in the application process? I'm sure some kind of lamination press could be jerry-rigged.

What kind of glue are you using to apply the print to the acrylic? How big are the prints?

You could fasion a roller out of some large diameter poly pipe, and use a clean/soft material as a buffer to not damage the print?

[Peter Ward]

Originally Posted by joshman

what about a paint roller to assist in the application process? I'm sure some kind of lamination press could be jerry-rigged.

What kind of glue are you using to apply the print to the acrylic? How big are the prints?

You could fasion a roller out of some large diameter poly pipe, and use a clean/soft material as a buffer to not damage the print?

This process first started with encasing small prints (think drink coaster size) in resin.

Constant bubbles forming in the resin (despite using a heat gun) and a less than perfectly flat cured surface from silicone moulds canned that idea.

Round two was to use a thermal laminator and adhesive backed PVC sheets to face mount prints to the acrylic sheets.

Epic fail....

....but led to round three and to use a transfer liquid to allow the PVC adhesive surface to slip a tad on the acrylic sheet, then use a roller or squeegee to remove any bubbles.

Nearly there, but with surface mounting to acrylic the print bond has to be perfect.

To be sure this nut has already been cracked long ago by commercial labs.. but my goal was not to mount A2 prints for a museum quality display. A small format photo block, however would be cool.

My most recent efforts attached...not perfect but getting there.

[joshman (Josh)]

Originally Posted by Peter Ward

This process first started with encasing small prints (think drink coaster size) in resin.

Constant bubbles forming in the resin (despite using a heat gun) and a less than perfectly flat cured surface from silicone moulds canned that idea.

Round two was to use a thermal laminator and adhesive backed PVC sheets to face mount prints to the acrylic sheets.

Epic fail....

....but led to round three and to use a transfer liquid to allow the PVC adhesive surface to slip a tad on the acrylic sheet, then use a roller or squeegee to remove any bubbles.

Nearly there, but with surface mounting to acrylic the print bond has to be perfect.

To be sure this nut has already been cracked long ago by commercial labs.. but my goal was not to mount A2 prints for a museum quality display. A small format photo block, however would be cool.

My most recent efforts attached...not perfect but getting there.

that is very cool. i like the dimension it add to the images.

So the visual side of the print is face down on the acrylic?

How are you dealing with the static on the acrylic face? Are you coating the acrylic AND the print in the adhesive/transfer liquid?

Back on the resin idea - a small vacuum chamber might cure the bubble woes. not sure how long it takes to usually cure, but a mix thats a bit longer to cure might level out quite well? then squared/surfaced and polished.

[Nikolas (Nik)]

Have you tried a squeegy type applicator like when you put on a vinyl wrap?

[Peter Ward]

Originally Posted by joshman

that is very cool. i like the dimension it add to the images.

So the visual side of the print is face down on the acrylic?

How are you dealing with the static on the acrylic face? Are you coating the acrylic AND the print in the adhesive/transfer liquid?

Back on the resin idea - a small vacuum chamber might cure the bubble woes. not sure how long it takes to usually cure, but a mix thats a bit longer to cure might level out quite well? then squared/surfaced and polished.

Ta, but face mounting (i.e. face side down) to acrylic or glass, while not new, is a process that by adding extra transfer liquid on the acrylic face has not helped.

Static has not been a problem. Dust however.....this is a "clean room" exercise for sure.

As for the vacuum chamber.....yeah..nah. Think kitchen table tech at best.

[Leo.G (Leo)]

Round two was to use a thermal laminator and adhesive backed PVC sheets to face mount prints to the acrylic sheets.

What is the transfer medium?


Laminators can be a real pain, the heat introduces a lot of unknown variables.


My son and I have been trying to adhere copper sheet onto PET plastic sheeting to make a special flexible circuit board for a piece of equipment a friend borrowed (from another acquaintance), then ripped apart when it didn't work and tore the flexible circuit board in half. His options were to ask if we could possibly repair the equipment or replace it with a unit worth over $6K new.
This has been a VERY long process.
That on top of researching which chemicals could and couldn't expose the copper without damaging the PET sheet but one of the biggest obstacles was adhering the copper sheet without bubbles.


I have contacted EVERY electronics supply joint in Australia and every company I found online about this process and no one either could or would answer. Even the major adhesive companies couldn't give me an answer.
After more than a year we found Core Electronics started bringing in the Pyrolux flexible circuit board material (Polyimide with copper bonded) after numerous emails to them asking about this stuff and relevant processes. They bring it in from their head company in New York on order.


Now it's just a matter of getting to the job after spending a considerable sum of money on chemicals and materials and my son spending considerable time going through the processes to get it exposed correctly. The largest hurdle has been getting a suitable mask printed or anythinged, no methods, print with laser or inkjet or the iron on method (which was the least successful method) have so far proven overly successful with heat from printing and processes stretching the transfer sheets and ending up with dozens of masks of varying dimensions.


It's another of those one day things, or my friend can just pay the $6K to replace it for his acquaintance (but he won't). Luckily neither him nor the owner need it because it's an ongoing headache.