I just tested a toner transfer with a laminator at work and it works beautifully. one of the neatest transfers I've done. can't wait to etch it.
I used a 0.8mm pcb and the pulsar profx paper.
I was using the iron at home to heat transfer and could never get it right, but with the laminator, I just set it at max heat and made multiple passes. the even pressure and heat ensures tracks are uniform.
now i'll use a green overlay film to protect the toner further and then etch with amm.persulphate.
Its a pigment based foil that sticks to the toner and provides better etch resistance. just another layer of protection and reduces pitting. i've tried with and without and the foil yields better results.
yes, the laminator is a major step up in getting a good transfer and the foil does help.
I spent the last 2 days ironing out the same pattern at home but couldn't get it even.
with the laminator, it took just 5 mins.
apparently if it reaches 150 to 160deg c, you can get it transferred in one pass.
the one I have at work is just a normal one but with a heat setting from 1 to 10, so I could set it at max.
the 0.8mm pcb is also important though as it gets through the rollers without jamming.
i'm sure a double sided pcb is possible this way as well. that's my next one.
I did read about the laminators for PCBs, and I have use our home one, although I need to change the thermal fuse and thermostat to higher temp ratings.
Something the minister In charge was none to happy about...I might buy a cheapy for my own use and mod it.
I have one at home as well and didn't want to mod it.
the one I used at work is unmodded, which is what I'm really happy about. no fire risk and it can be used for normal lamination as well.
makes it so much more easier.
not sure if all laminators have the same max temperature, but just a few passes in both directions is sufficient as I found out.
I just finished etching the PCB. Has come out well.
also attached is the laminator I used without modding. has a heat setting from 1 to 10.
as for the 160deg mod, its the smoke bit that is a bit worrisome.
I'm guessing you could use lower temp thermistors but make multiple passes.
One thing I have found helpful is to shrink the holes a bit on the original artwork before it is printed/transferred. That way it acts as a starting guide for the drill and makes drilling easier and faster.
One thing I have found helpful is to shrink the holes a bit on the original artwork before it is printed/transferred. That way it acts as a starting guide for the drill and makes drilling easier and faster.
-Ivan
Good Idea...although I don't know if Eagle PCB (my PCB CAD) has a global command for this....doing each hole separately would be a pain.
On another note...does anyone use "tinning crystals" to tin their PCBs?
Not sure about Eagle, but I use designspark where hole sizes are global. you can define your own or use the defaults. just modify the global and it applies to all the pads.
I set hole sizes depending on the drill bit that way the drill bit sort of self centres as you drill.
I use a 0.8mm drill bit for standard components and 1mm drill bit for connectors. you only need to drill through fibreglass and not copper as well. works very well for me.
Brendan, I haven't heard of tinning crystals, if the copper is clean enough, you can solder easily by ensuring the copper is heated with the tip. I use the 0.8mm lead. I tin/clean component leads with a blade before soldering.
For protection, I've seen the sprays in jaycar which protect the copper but you can still solder over it.
Tinning is pretty much needed for surface mount...you can get away with just using solder to tin a PCB but this is a bit laborious.
I saw there is a product called Liquid tin...like Tinnit (tin plating in crystal crystal form) ...just soak the PCB for a few minutes (no electrolysis) and it's coated.
Like the finish of the proper tinning methods.
Looks like I can specify min drill with eagle but others follow the parts design rules...which can be all over the place.
Must have my head in the sand and missed this!
