Although I've seen and used conductive sticky tape that is safe for ESD sensitive packing, suffice to say, this is plain old sticky tape! Which probably produces a couple of kilovolts of static charge when pulled from reels!
ESD precautions from a component supplier...."a dirty word". I hope they are ok, cheap enough, but the issue is using them and they may be degraded or worse.
Might look for some more.
edit:
meant to say, this IC was used in quite a few webcams...and I think playstation (don't know which version). I might even think of ratting them if I can get my hands on some webcams. I can remove them quickly with a SOP adaptor to my Hakko. I would have more confidence in a part sourced this method than the UTSource ones. I have 2 Philips SPC800NC webcams (one mono sensor, one colour)...but...I'm not ratting them!
Just found the mfr for sensor socket, Sony and Kodak etc, Andon Electronics. I've downloaded their catalogue and while they do not have a carrier for the ICX453AQ, they have one for another sensor that is 34 pins, 1" row width, 1.78 pin pitch ...all other specs look same as our sensor.
Mrn is:IS230-1034-75S-R29-L14. An alternate DIP package is this:
Mrn: IS230-1034-75S-R29-L14-A.
Also they have SIP packages in 1.78 pin pitch, mrn:
416-17-75S-R29-L14, 1.78 pin pitch, 17 pin length, (again with longer throat for longer pins. Looks to me they use a DIP carrier to hold SIP arrays then remove the carrier after soldering the array in to the PCB. Similar method to solder individual pins. This holds the SIP or pins square and flat to the PCB.
I'm trawling the web for this but so far none. I did note they appear to make and sell individual pins that are made for sensors...aka smaller head dia, long throat for longer sensor pins etc.
Looks to me so far...false alarm. It looks as if they are specialist items only available from Framos or Eureca. Both of these places are not cheap!
Damn...I used ICX413AQ pin/package info to draw my CAD in my schematic part. Problem is, It's not the same as ICX450AQ. Added another 3 hrs to sort it out. Gawd I was really confused for awhile.
Starting to get there now, just about complete schematic but haven't started PCB routing yet. There will be difference between the schematic and PCB because each user (FADDY) put in some differences, but I can easily accommodate this once I have the basic schematic done.
Ok, I've completed the schematic, and are laying out the PCB. This could take some time. FADDY did some changes as he was previously building the CAM85 then went to CAM85m.
About the only issue I have seen is that he left on R13, a 3.9K between VT2 drain to base of VT3. Since Vt3 is now not a FET (it's now a NPN bipolar BC857B) it looks to require inclusion. But its simple enough to leave out if required.
I pretty much have all component values sewn up and cross checked parts to actual PCB. But transposing his PCB to mine.... placing the PCB components on my PCB requires high accuracy for: holes; via's; traces; everything... etc. FADDY has already completed this. I don't mind doing this butit will take some time.
So, the question is:
We can use "FADDY's" gerbers right now as I'm confident they are ok and I have a handle on his components; or
Wait till I complete my PCB and use this to cross check each trace etc.
Brendan, again thank you for doing all the hard work.
If you are confident that Faddy's design is fine, the gerbers would most likely be fine as well. I would say let's go with his/her gerbers. It would be a waste of your time to duplicate his/her work... unless you really enjoy designing PCBs
Yes I'm confident with his gerbers,but this commits us to the G106 case.
Oh... I made an error...Vt3 was a transistor on cam85 but later changed to FET on Cam85m. No Idea why FADDY left the resistor R13 on but suspect he's used the Cam85 transistor on the cam85m in lieu. Easy enough to leave this item on the PCB and bridge but we need to clarify this part VT3. VT3 on Cam85m is IRLML2803 N channel FET.
As said, I'm confident on his gerbers. It was an exercise in understanding his changes and components.
If you remade the gerbers, can we go to a smaller case or to a different format of the case, keeping in mind that moving some of the components can affect the noise levels?
If you remade the gerbers, can we go to a smaller case or to a different format of the case, keeping in mind that moving some of the components can affect the noise levels?
Inducing noise or thermal issues is a real problem I am thinking of. Also there are some minor changes in capacitor values for Cam85m around the IC's forming timing pulses, DD8, DD9, DD11. I think I have the correct values (I do have alternate values noted but are unable to determine which cam has what atm!) ...gawd it hard to decipher.
Urrrgggh...doing my head in after about 10 PCB traces.
VD5 anode and DD7 (pins 1 & 2) connect to 15V, as per schematic. 15V and 15V2 are separated by DR3 (inductor) and 15V2 has some extra capacitors, like C47. Yet FADDY pulled a swifty and also put VD5 on this 15V line, right at top of PCB images, top side.
Cannot believe it...only 13 traces laid and it's all pear shaped...Hmmm unlucky "13" anyone!
In reality this probably means little but it's little details like this that can mean a lot, especially with this. Grrr I'll figure out what to do...looks as if I'll do a correct schematic and PCB and another, with the differences included.
Brendan, you will love this... NOT...
Have you seen the page 83 (last page ATM) of the Ukrainian forum? Gerbers, schematic and BOM posted by grim, the person who started the thread and is developing the cam86. Also few questions of relevance by Faddy.
Looks to have major improvements over Cam85m. Major changes are: PCB layout much much better (edit: is smaller as well, 85mm x 54mm);
ATmega328; control of clks; TEC cooling (VT1) and DSB18B20;
More, improved regulators and these moved to bottom of PCB;
Changed AD converter to AD9826;
And more...
Suffice to say, Cam85m is dead, long live Cam86.. Beginning to gather info for all the changes...Including a much better Schematic and re-order listing of parts on Schematic.
Brendan
Last edited by wasyoungonce; 10-07-2016 at 12:32 PM.
Can I ask everybody else who is reading this and is interested in building this camera to reply. It would be good to know the rough number of people because bulk ordering parts can significantly drop the price.
At the moment it looks like there is Brendan and me.
No, its not to late...pretty much we haven't done anything apart from talk and point fingers
We were doing PCB cad for Cam85m but Cam86 is released which is has better layout and is flash programmable, meaning I've seen a bigger bone and I'm going for it.
What we will do is ensure we have a path ahead with PCBs, parts, and programming before we commit. Pretty much we have PCBs and parts already, just need info and microcode for ATmega328....and grim's bets wishes
Looks as if he's tweeking the clk signals. We gotta thank them. I'm away atm for a few days...might be worth while to join their forum to say hello and thank them.
John, just wondering if you have machining skills with a workshop access? In particular to make the nose-pieces for the cameras. Brendan and I can handle the electronics but the noise piece is still the missing part of the equation.
I found two solutions but they are not great. We could, for example, use an off-the-shelf camera tilting unit and screw it to the camera box or we could go without tilt adjustment and use something simpler like this, screwed to the box. Then we would need extension rings which can be purchased separately. Neither is perfect though.
Brendan, have you seen this case? Same dimensions as G106 but deeper, if we need more depth. I am not sure about the internal dimensions for mounting the board. If of interest I could go to Jaycar and measure the insides.
Jaycar also has a diecast case with identical outside dimensions as G106.
John, hopefully I did not scare you with my question Don't worry about it.
Brendan, what is your plan regarding colour or mono (de-Bayered sensor)? This is all new for me and I am still thinking what to do. Do you know what size filters we would need for the sensor size?