Ken and everyone else who is using or intends using the Samrung SCC-A2333 camera, you don't need to use the Samsung RD100 controller.
I have managed to duplicate and remote the little joystick switch thingy to scroll through the menus etc.
It's a very easy and clean mod if you have a soldering iron and know how to use it.
The only limit is the length of cable to the remote handpad.
So far it works great at 10 metres using 6 core screened cable with the screen earthed at the camera end only.
I'll take some pics and post them shortly.
Martin
Last edited by MLyons; 08-10-2010 at 06:49 PM.
Reason: Edited to correct spelling
Any chance of you posting a dark frame from this camera, maybe with a bit of sense-up, so we can get an idea of the hot pixels?
The reasson I ask - I have a Mintron and am quite disappointed by the number and brightness of hot pixels, so am thinking of other options.
Thanks,
Jason.
Jason, I have taken 3 dark frame Screen Grabs for you.
They are at x128, x256, and x512 sens-up.
I left the Brightness and Contrast at 50% for all of them so they are equal in settings.
One thing I noticed straight away. Not as many hot pixels show up in these tests as when I image through the scope.
This test is with the camera out of the scope, lens cap on, and inside the house with the house heater on.
I see more hot pixels when the camera is in the scope, outside in the cold
Tomorrow night I will be broadcasting again, so I'll do an 'outside' test because I believe that this 'inside' test gives no results of any value. But for now, here are the results from this 'inside in the warm house' test.
Thanks Martin, but why the Mylar screened cable, and how do I Earth it to the camera? With that little screw that says 'Ground'?
Hi Ken,
The reason I connected the screen to the camera chassis was to ensure no possibilities of erratic behaviour from interference being picked up with long lengths.
Remember that I'm running 10m at the moment with hopes of making it 20m soon.
Also, if you're in an area that gets a bit of lightning, it will help too.
You don't have to earth the screen for short runs (2m) but then it is also not necessary to use screened cable.
If you do intend to run long lengths, I recommend screened cable with the screen connected to any of the little screws holding the chassis together. (The "Earth" terminal on the outside of the camera is simply connected to the chassis internally)
DO NOT use the screen as one of your conductors (such as the "common" wire)
This will ENSURE that your cable becomes a big antenna that may pick up signals from elsewhere and cause erratic camera behaviour when in the menu.
Wow, that's pretty awesome Ken, thanks. These cameras look like the ducks nuts.
My Mintron doesn't even come close to that when watching on a video monitor, when my grabber arrives this week I'll post some darks.
When I was drawing your wiring diagram I notice that you have the Yellow and White wires reversed from your actual wiring photo.
Will it matter?
Oops
The yellow and white wires are for left and right.
It won't do any harm other than reverse the direction the cursor moves in which could be a challenge when scrolling through the menus.
Oops
The yellow and white wires are for left and right.
It won't do any harm other than reverse the direction the cursor moves in which could be a challenge when scrolling through the menus.
Martin
If I get them reversed I'll just swap them around.
Thanks heaps.
Going out now to start setting up for tonights broadcast. Lovely sky here.
here's another test result for you.
Images number 1 & 2 at x256 sens-up, number 3 at x512.
I have doubled the image size so you can see them better.
The strange thing with these Hot Pixels is that they change colours about twice a second and look like twinkling stars.
When on a Dark sky background they appear bright and in these twinkling colours.
When on a lighter sky background they appear as black 'Dead' pixels.
Oh, BTW, the images are 47tuc, Running Chicken Neb, and Helix Neb.
All single frame 'LIVE' screen grabs.