Brendan, what did you use to clean the sensor after the DMSO application?
I've just left them till I need them but linked all the pins together with fine copper wire. Kinda just storing them.
But you'll use them soon so no need for that.
Cleaning, Isopropyl, Acetone, Chloroform (yes don't laugh it works). The surface cover glass is quite hardy. You can even use warm vapour like from an ultrasonic bath. As it forms and evaporates it takes away contaminates.
Hi Flip....you're PCB looks great I look at it with envy...you and Luka were to kind not to mention my little screw up! Also you're PCB has some tented via and some not! How did you do that?
Also you're PCB has some tented via and some not! How did you do that?
Honestly, I don't know
But after closer examination I can see slight variations between different boards. It looks like inconsistency in manufacturing process, some boards have thicker solder mask around vias, some not. Also there are variations on the same board. All vias should be covered and they are, just on some solder mask is thinner and looks like it's missing.
I am wondering how boards from OSH Park will be...
I just had an interesting thought... we ordered 2x 10 boards and not 20 boards, i.e. there were two separate orders of identical 10 boards done at different times. It was cheaper that way.
Anyway, it would be interesting to compare the boards from two different batches... Unfortunately you have one batch Brendan while I have the other I was planing adding a few more for you but in a rush left them on my desk. Compare photos?
Thank you guys for the info. The DMSO worked very fast, I checked 20h after I put the first sensor in and it was free. I thought it would take a few days???
Now my test debayered one is in, to see if DMSO affects the sensor surface/epoxy/golden wires. No cover glass.
Will finish soldering the first board later tonight...
I finished soldering all the components I had. Then I flashed the FTDI chip (my previous information that this was not required was not correct) and also the Atmega328P.
I even managed to get a first image... now I am missing DD6 so the Atmega328P cannot talk to the ADC and the sensor, hence the image is black.
Almost there... so far so good. Just waiting for the DD6 which will probably be here on Monday.
I am compiling detailed instructions, the Ukrainian translations by Google are not very clear. Also need to update the parts list.
And finally my 2nd sensor in DMSO got free from the carrier within less than 5h. Damn that stuff is working fast.
Pat and Flip...Luka asked me the value of C43. Unfortunately I have it as 10nf but my parts list says 1nf. If I make a change I usually put a hidden pop note in xls for the reasons...on this I have none. Just for interest sake...I went thru all my drawing revisions and I have always had C43 as 10nf in schematic and 1nf on parts list so I think the schematic was a typo.
Here is detailed info how to flash firmware to the Cam86. Hopefully it will be useful to someone:
1. Connect Cam86 and let Windows install the FTDI drivers.
2. Update firmware on the FTDI device:
- Run the MPROG utility
- In Mprog, Click on the magnifying glass icon and check that it shows number of programmed devices = 1. If it shows more, unplug any other USB devices that may contain FTDI chips. if less, something has not installed properly.
- Open the template file cam86.ept, and click on the 'program existing devices' button.
3. Remove power to Cam86, wait few seconds, plug power back in
4. Setup FTDI device in device manager
- In device manager under "Universal Serial Bus Controller" find "USB Serial Controller A" and "USB Serial Controller B", right click on one of them and select properties.
- Under tab Advanced unclick loadVCP and click OK
- Do the same of the other device
5. Flash firmware to the Atmega328P chip
- Run Cam86 Programmer
- Click "Open", you should see something like this:
Number of devices : 2
device ¹0 :
SerialNumber :CAM86A
Description :CAM86 A
device ¹1 :
SerialNumber :CAM86B
Description :CAM86 B
Open :CAM86 B
BitMode Ok
SetBaudRate : 60000
- Click "Prog Enable", you should see something like this:
signature: 1E0F95
ATmega328P
- Click "Read Fuses", the fuses fields will be filled with binary values (1s and 0s)
- EXTREME CARE NEEDED HERE or you can disable the internal oscillator in the ATmega328P chip
Type in new fuses values as follows:
Fuse high: 11011001 (this is probably identical to what was read from the chip)
Fuse low: 11100010
Fuse EX: 11111111
- DOUBLE CHECK WHAT YOU ENTERED
- CHECK AGAIN
- Click "Write Fuses", you should see something like this:
E2
FF
- Click "Chip Erase", you should see something like this:
FF AC 80 00
- Click "Write PROGR", select the firmware in the cam86-firmware folder.
The flashing process will output
Page 1
Page 2
...
Then the program got stuck at around page 30. I waited about 30 seconds and eventually it finished with Page 219. Be patient.
When it finishes it will show over than 200 pages.
- Unplug power, wait a few seconds and you should have a working Cam86
- Install the ASCOM driver and test with CamView utility.
Pat and Flip...Luka asked me the value of C43. Unfortunately I have it as 10nf but my parts list says 1nf. If I make a change I usually put a hidden pop note in xls for the reasons...on this I have none. Just for interest sake...I went thru all my drawing revisions and I have always had C43 as 10nf in schematic and 1nf on parts list so I think the schematic was a typo.
Can you please advise.
Thanks
Brendan
Hi,
C43 is 1000 pico farad.
sorry to do short, I am with gsm
Now, to proceed any further, first I have to make new enclosure and solve CCD cooling. That will have to wait a little...
But from initial tests, camera produces very clean images with low noise free of any electrical interference.
I've put camera in freezer (-18C) and took few bias frames, resulting images show very low noise with perfect Gaussian distribution. I am extremely happy so far
Few questions about debayering the sensor? I had a practice go at a broken one (from a broken camera) and while I debayered it I am not sure about the outcome as the sensor (and my DSLR) was already broken.
Did you just scrape the CFA or did you use something like dichloromethane (paintstripper) to soften the CFA?
I tried the dichloromethae method and it worked well but I had issues cleaning the gel-like leftovers. The sensor cleaned OK but the surroundings are covered by it and wiping is out of question because of the gold wires. I covered them by epoxy but some of the ends where it attaches to the sensor surface are still exposed as I did not want to risk getting epoxy on the sensor itself.
Also did you use epoxy to protect the gold wires and did you seal the sensor with the original glass again or did you just leave it open?