the GM-8 just seemed... Easy.. Felt right at home pulling it down and cleaning it up... Its just so industrial..
That's exactly what I think everytime I pull my G11 apart. It's such a simple well designed mount. It's like lego blocks. A monkey could do it.... and every year he does
That's exactly what I think everytime I pull my G11 apart. It's such a simple well designed mount. It's like lego blocks. A monkey could do it.... and every year he does
would love a quid for everyone I have shown how to dismantle either a GM-8 or G-11.
John... Being paid to show people how to pull these mounts apart would be like taking candy from a baby in many respects....
Step 1, find an exposed allen head bolt.
Step 2, Get correct size allen key and turn bolt anti clockwise
Step 3, Repeat the process until mount is dismantled.
Gary & Paul - Now that does sound cost effective! Gary, next time Im buying something big from you, (Yes... We both know there will be a next time) I might have to jet over and pick it up )
Adam - See, this is why I need to check the forums before I leave the house. I just got home from the shop buying lubricant.. Thanks for the offer mate!
I remember now what happened when I did mine - I looked through all sorts of forums at other peoples experience of regreasing their mounts and the most used greases were white lithium grease, and SuperLube, with people mostly raving about SuperLube. So I ordered some online, but then I would look at my poor mount just sitting there in bits, so I went and bought some white lithium, and did it with that. The SuperLube turned up a couple of days later. Sometimes you just can't wait.
No it doesn't.. And whilst that has me concerned, I think it will be ok
hahha.. I figure, if it can handle being in wheel bearings on a car thats cruising at 100kmph down the highway, it can handle being in a mount that rotates 15 degrees per hour or there abouts..
Any suggestions on what to use on the Needle Bearing Washers? A light oil or just a very thin smear of SL? When I pulled the bearings off there didn't seem to be any noticeable grease on them at all (though they didn't seem dry).
WD40 it I reckon... at work 99% of bearings get no more than a monthly spray of WD40.... Mines all done and dusted.. just resizing some photos and eating lunch then i'll post up said photos..
Ok, I just used the thinnest smear of SL, basically a wipe with a greasy finger on both sides. Should be enough. I've adjusted the Dec Worm and now onto the RA. Feels nice, and its great to have the clutches tighten up with just finger adjustments now. Why did I wait so long
1 - Mount mostly stripped, still had to pull the base apart.
2 - Grease used.
3 - RA worm gear, cleaned with grease applied
4 - RA Worm cleaned and greased.. I know that only a small fraction of the middle of the worm will actually make contact with the worm wheel, but I greased it all anyway..
5 - Half way through re-assembly
6 - Rebuilt.
7 - The imaging rig.
Yep I'm all dressed up with no place to go. I've done an adjustment on the worms but the proof of the pudding is in the eating so they say. I'll just have to wait for a clear night for dessert then.
btw if you haven't already, get a short piece of dowel and put a notch in it to turn the worm. Its much easier on the fingers. I use a fairly narrow piece of bamboo stake. That way I can only roll it with the tips of a couple of fingers. Thicker dowel give too good a grip and you might be tempted to 'ride' over those rough spots.
Another way to bed in your worm is to take the Oldem Coupling off the motor, reverse a 3/16th drill bit, put the coupling on the shank of the drill, put it in a cordless drill and rotate the worm at slow speed in both directions, saves the fingers.
Great thread, will be watching it with interest.
It's a pity it was so glugged up Alex because it would have been
great to measure it's PE before and after the tune up as you will
be messing with the worm mesh and clutch faces etc.
They certainly do look like a tinkerer's dream...good, sturdy and
functional.