First Light QHY9 - Page 2

Tandum (Robin) · #21 18-01-2010, 04:29 PM

Cheers Guys, the cameras not bad value for money at the moment and they all have their little problems. These are off the TAK at F6 although I haven't set distance from the reducer yet but close enough

Doug, I was asking how to fix the line artifact. I was expecting reflections

I'm not sure if these ones are reflections from the nose piece glass. It still shows a dohnut around the star but only in Blue/Green, Red is ok and Lum is just barely visible. I'll try without the nosepiece from home and then try and cobble in an LPS filter. Here's the stacked RGB&Lum shots, I've butchered them to show the reflection. It's way more obvious in this LRGB image without Ha to calm it down.

spearo (Frank) · #22 18-01-2010, 07:28 PM

very nice!
love the detail
you can see the benefits of Ha and L frames for sure
I can wait to master these myself
frank

Omaroo (Chris Malikoff) · #23 18-01-2010, 10:44 PM

Great work Robin

Very nice indeed! 'Tis the season for new cameras, and I can't wait to what everyone gets from their new acquisitions after they get used to handling them for a little while.

Hagar (Doug) · #24 19-01-2010, 01:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tandum

Cheers Guys, the cameras not bad value for money at the moment and they all have their little problems. These are off the TAK at F6 although I haven't set distance from the reducer yet but close enough

Doug, I was asking how to fix the line artifact. I was expecting reflections

I'm not sure if these ones are reflections from the nose piece glass. It still shows a dohnut around the star but only in Blue/Green, Red is ok and Lum is just barely visible. I'll try without the nosepiece from home and then try and cobble in an LPS filter. Here's the stacked RGB&Lum shots, I've butchered them to show the reflection. It's way more obvious in this LRGB image without Ha to calm it down.

Hi Robin , The clamp function was originally to remove the dark shadow present after a bright star so my sugestion is try turning it off and see if this improves your shadow problem.
The no USB also stops all USB transfer other than the image during the download so it should be on.

marki · #25 19-01-2010, 03:20 AM

Not too bad for a first light Robin. Leave the clamp off and turn on no usb during readout as Doug said. For the lines make sure the S video cable is plugged into the regulating box with the EMC ring closest to the box. I get those lines as well if I plug it in the other way round.

Mark

Tandum (Robin) · #26 19-01-2010, 08:24 AM

Thanks guys, now I have some baseline data from a dark site I can fiddle at home and try to sort out the problems. Not too pleased about having to get a nosepiece with a 2" threaded end custom made for the wheel, but you live and learn I guess. If you need one for a qhy9 wheel let me know ASAP.

marki · #27 19-01-2010, 12:24 PM

Robin, you should have got the 2" nose piece with the wheel? Not sure what you are talking about.

Mark

Gama · #28 19-01-2010, 12:48 PM

The nose pieces that come for the filter wheel are originally from the QHY-11 and have the filter thread on the opposite end. This is what Robin is saying.
I do believe they are getting the filter threads put on the other side of those nose pieces. Once i get the newer versions, i'll have them available to anyone that may need it for their filter wheel.

Theo.

marki · #29 19-01-2010, 01:51 PM

Thanks Theo, now that I look at it I see what you are talking about. I always assumed there was a 48mm thread in the nose piece. Will need it when my reducer turns up.

Mark