Testing my rig - Pleades, M42 and NGC104- my first real go at it

[tornado33]

Yes even if Photoshop doesnt support Pentax raw, I think the supplied Pentax software would allow them to be converted to 16 bit Tiffs, that way all the information in them is retained. Levels in them could be stretched more before noise becomes a problem.
Scott

[h0ughy (David)]

Originally Posted by Itchy

I understand that it has the same chip as the Nikon D70. Does the software that came with the camera convert the raws to Tiff?

thanks

I haven't explored that facet yet Tony! might have to look at that?

[atalas]

Well done David ! your well on your way now to catching the imaging bug ,aint no turning back mate. David If I catch up to you at Kulnura one day I can help you with an easy
to follow drift method ,once you go through It you'll always remember It( asuming you haven't got It sussed by then )

[h0ughy (David)]

Originally Posted by atalas

Well done David ! your well on your way now to catching the iamging bug ,aint no turning back mate. David If I catch up to you at Kulnura one day I can help you with an easy
to follow drift method ,once you go through It you'll always remember It( asuming you haven't got It sussed by then )

SOunds good Louie I had the bug long ago but no way to meet its needs, (hey thats still almost true - any one with an St10 they want to donate )

[atalas]

ST10 ! oh Houghy you have It bad mate

[fringe_dweller]

expecting great things from this set dude! excellent! more daily hits of eye candy :-)))) increasing the dosage!

[gbeal]

Nice start Dave.
One thing I thought of with your hard earned polar alignment.
Have you thought of marks on the ground, wherever you set up.
I work on asphalt (except in the middle of summer due heat), and have a set of three white dots of paint, and the roll out pier sits on them, giving me almost bang on aligment. Of course i had to get it reasonably right to start, but why do this every time?
Gary

[h0ughy (David)]

Originally Posted by gbeal

Nice start Dave.
One thing I thought of with your hard earned polar alignment.
Have you thought of marks on the ground, wherever you set up.
I work on asphalt (except in the middle of summer due heat), and have a set of three white dots of paint, and the roll out pier sits on them, giving me almost bang on aligment. Of course i had to get it reasonably right to start, but why do this every time?
Gary

I have grass Gary, a bit hard to mark that out. I do know one thing but, i will be almost bu993r3d when the moon is a bit fuller, between that and light pollution it is hard to see the octans bit.

[[1ponders] (Paul)]

h0ughy, sink three bricks into the ground (the ones with the frog in them, if not then holed bricks will have to do, three holes if you can get them.) and set your tripod up against the end of the frogs and mark the spots with paint. Or mark the hole you use if you can't get a frogged brick.

[h0ughy (David)]

Originally Posted by [1ponders]

h0ughy, sink three bricks into the ground (the ones with the frog in them, if not then holed bricks will have to do, three holes if you can get them.) and set your tripod up against the end of the frogs and mark the spots with paint. Or mark the hole you use if you can't get a frogged brick.

Awe come on Paul that sounds too practical to be true! Knowing my kids they will dig it up just for the pleasure of raising "dads" anger to get some mileage. good practical thought though. I will do it this weekend!

[Striker (Tony)]

I have grass Gary, a bit hard to mark that out. I do know one thing but, i will be almost bu993r3d when the moon is a bit fuller, between that and light pollution it is hard to see the octans bit.

I can't see it either......do a drift align.....they say its more accurate anyway.

[h0ughy (David)]

Originally Posted by atalas

ST10 ! oh Houghy you have It bad mate

Blame EddieT, andthe other beings of a higher order. I'd settle for a 20DA

[h0ughy (David)]

Originally Posted by Striker

I can't see it either......do a drift align.....they say its more accurate anyway.

If Scott doesn't show me then I think Louie will next time I am at kulnurra

[tornado33]

Howdy
With the drift method, I will pick a star as close to right overhead as possible, let the scope track on it for a few mins, and take note to wether the star drifts north or sough in declination. If the star drifts north, it means the scope is drifting south of the star. If this is so the azimuth is out and needs to be rotated slightly clockwise by a degree or so as you look down on the mount. If star drifts south, then scope is drifting north and the azimuth needs to come anticlockwise by a degree or so, then try again and see if its better.

next pick a star in the east or west below 45 degrees altitude, this time if the star (one in the east as an example) drifts north in declination, the scope is drifting south meaning the altitude is too low, raise it a degree and try again. If star drifts south the scope is drifting north meaning altitude is too high, reduce it by a degree and try again.

If using a star low in the west, if star drifts north, scope is drifting south meaning altitude is too low, and so on.

Using high magnification, each drifting session needs only be a minute or so long, meaning reasonable alignment may be possible in only 1/2 hour or so.

This method has worked well for me. When imaging, if I note guide star drifts in dec. a bit, I will adjust the Azimuth (if guide star is close to overhead) or adjust altitude if the sgudestar is lower in east or west and is drifting.

Anyway id be happy to show you when youre out under the stars soon
Scott

[h0ughy (David)]

Originally Posted by tornado33

Howdy
With the drift method, I will pick a star as close to right overhead as possible, let the scope track on it for a few mins, and take note to wether the star drifts north or sough in declination. If the star drifts north, it means the scope is drifting south of the star. If this is so the azimuth is out and needs to be rotated slightly clockwise by a degree or so as you look down on the mount. If star drifts south, then scope is drifting north and the azimuth needs to come anticlockwise by a degree or so, then try again and see if its better.

next pick a star in the east or west below 45 degrees altitude, this time if the star (one in the east as an example) drifts north in declination, the scope is drifting south meaning the altitude is too low, raise it a degree and try again. If star drifts south the scope is drifting north meaning altitude is too high, reduce it by a degree and try again.

If using a star low in the west, if star drifts north, scope is drifting south meaning altitude is too low, and so on.

Using high magnification, each drifting session needs only be a minute or so long, meaning reasonable alignment may be possible in only 1/2 hour or so.

This method has worked well for me. When imaging, if I note guide star drifts in dec. a bit, I will adjust the Azimuth (if guide star is close to overhead) or adjust altitude if the sgudestar is lower in east or west and is drifting.

Anyway id be happy to show you when youre out under the stars soon
Scott

Thanks Scott

[beren]

Hey great to see work from you houghy , top stuff....c'mon drift aligning isnt that hard