Thanks Andrew

I was thinking just that. Use them as reference - as long as they're locked in place and don't move.
I believe that they are 4/40's? They're pretty thin and long!
Thanks a lot for your help!
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewJ
Gday Chris
Just reading that fork alignment link, it doesn't really apply to you
Orthogonality setting is a two stage process
1) You get the DEC axle orthogonal to the RA axle
( if you dont touch the bolts holding the forkarms to the base hub
this is not going to affect you )
2) You get the OTA set up orthogonal to the DEC axle
( or more precisely, colinear to the RA axle when the scope is set at DEC = -90 )
The simplest way to do this is point at the pole and spin the OTA
if you cant keep the stars rotating within the EP, you are off.
As to micrometers etc, not reqd.
Just get four bolts to go in the jacking holes ( in the back of the saddles ) and screw in till they hit the screws holding the saddles to the OTA. Loctite/locknut em
Loosen the 6 OTA screws and remove OTA, spring the forks if necessary.
On resetting ( if you ever do ), just fit the OTA and snugly fit the 6 holding screws. Swing the OTA up and jiggle until the 4 rear screws in the saddle plate rest evenly on the jacking screws.
Do up the 6 screws in the OTA and yr 95% there.
To make this process easier, I actually replaced the 6 socket head capscrews with hex head bolts so i could get to them when the OTA was pointing up.
Andrew
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