Illumination Size: The size of the area at the focal plane (the virtual image)
illuminated by the primary optics.
General:
The focal plane is generally fully illuminated in the center, and gradually tapers off in
brightness toward the edge. A common way of measuring the illuminated area is by
defining the zone of full illumination (the 100% zone), and the area where the brightness has
tapered off to 75%.
The 100% zone is the area at the focal plane which is fully illuminated by the primary
mirror. This area will have 100% of the brightness available from the primary mirror.
This is the area produced by the light cone from the primary, reflected from the diagonal, as
long as there is no vignetting. Changing the diagonal minor axis is the easiest way to change
the size of this zone.
The 75% zone is the area at the focal plane which is 3/4 illuminated by the primary mirror.
This area will be dimmer than the 100% area, tapering off in brightness from the edge of the
100% zone until only 75% of the brightness from the primary mirror is available at the edge
of the 75% zone.
Visual Use:
An eyepiece will usually have approximately the same field lens diameter as its focal
length. So to fully illuminate the field of a 12 mm eyepiece, a 12 mm (1/2 inch) area of
100% illumination is required. Full illumination is not absolutely required, and in fact
usually drops off to around 75% near the edges of the eyepiece field.
The larger the eyepiece field lens, the larger areas of 100% and 75% illumination
required. This is also impacted by the diagonal mirror minor axis and any possible
vignetting by other elements of the telescope, such as the focuser inside diameter.
Some practical limit must be reached, however, because increasing the diagonal size will
also decrease contrast and light gathering ability. One possible rule of thumb is to limit the
size of the 100% zone to one half of the field lens size of the largest eyepiece you expect to
use.
Contrast is very important in a telescope. To see fine details in planetary images and faint
nebulae alike, you need the maximum contrast possible. In a newtonian telescope, one of
the biggest contrast killers is an oversized diagonal mirror. If possible, the diagonal minor
axis should be kept under 20% of the diameter of the primary mirror. This is easy with high
focal ratio telescopes but can be very difficult with shorter focal ratios. See the Improper
Design section.
Photographic Use:
Generally, to attain the brightest image (and utilize the full potential of the telescope's light
gathering ability), the film in the camera should be as fully illuminated as possible. This
requires a substantially larger diagonal mirror than does visual work.
In a 35mm camera, the short dimension of the film is 24mm (about 1 inch). The camera
body requires the focal plane to be moved farther out from the focuser as well. Adding 2
inches of focal plane height for the camera body, and requiring a 1 inch area of 100%
illumination will call for a fairly large diagonal mirror.
The other components of the telescope must be redesigned to accomodate photographic
work. The focuser inside diameter must be larger to prevent vignetting of the light cone,
and the diagonal mirror spider mount must be strong enough to prevent the heavier mirror
from vibrating or sagging.
A telescope which is optimized for photographic use does not usually perform well for
visual work.
Not mentioned but some sizes to consider for CCd use.
A Toucam has a chip 4.5mm (approx1/4") diagonal or 3.6x2.7mm so if your Newt were to be only used for a ToUcam you could get away with only a 4.5mm fully illuminated field.
Other chips vary in size depending on brand , but there are 1/3" 1/2" 3/4 5/8" chips plus others but as you can see the FIF for CCD is smaller than 35mm film or general visual.
Chips are getting bigger and more affordable these days thou.
So basically what your trying to do is get as big a FIF as possible while retaining as small as a diagonal as practical and if carefully done can result in a small central obstruction under 20% depending on focal ratios and components selected.
My own 12.5"f6 newt has a central obstruction of 16% with a fully illuminated field of 21mm and 75% of 37mm which is more than enough for any CCD I can afford and will work with a 31mm Nagler.
I could have gone with a smaller C.O. but felt i have a versatile design in my configuration.
Thanks Aus & Mark
I quickly read both posts and now I have basic gist of it. I'll reread it thoroughly and punch some nos. through Newt.
Not interested in photography with this one but you've both laid the facts out nicely for future reference for everyone. I really just want to check the viability of a dual purpose guidescope and travel sized dob.
Planets and lunar work was my main aim for the F10. I've enough scopes capable of dso viewing. The kids favourite viewing is of the planets and moon, and you can get great views at twilight.
The number crunching I'll do and see what evolves.
Don't worry about it , you'd be surprised how many people ask the same question and how many don't have a clue about there Newtonian design figures.
It takes abit to get around at first but you will eventually see the light fully
The truss on truss looks feasible...nice truss setup on the main scope. ( the finderscope looks fitted in an awkward spot)
But a truss on tube is hard to imagine
There's a 10'' tube on the yahoo eq6 site thats made from pvc thats had a web design cut into it. Apart from the pvc being used for the material it looks impressive. He used autocad to design it to maintain strength and acheive balance. The weight reduction on the OT was around 50%.
John Drummond also has a 8" newt riding on his 16" newt.
2 tubes look easier to pair up. The simpler the setup the easier it would be to manufacture and maintain.
Thanks for the pic Mark ,I might go double truss when and if I ever get to mount a large scope
