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  #21  
Old 30-03-2022, 08:05 AM
Startrek (Martin)
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East heavy
East heavy position for testing on the Ra axis is counterweight facing East, OTA facing west as you stand behind the mount looking South
From perfect balance in RA , with RA clutch unlocked , just move the bottom counterweight down the shaft about 5mm at a time until you notice the Ra axis starts to drop. It’s more difficult if you have a slightly stiff Ra axis like one of my EQ6-R mounts. It only has to be slightly east heavy.

I regards to fitting a Losmandy bar or other suitable dovetail bar to the top of the tube rings , you have to be careful not to tighten the fixing bolts ( I think they are M8 ) too much or you can strip the internal threads in the tube rings, the tube rings are only alloy not steel
Also the internal threads are only about 12mm deep too so you need the right depth screw or alternatively use some washers as spacers etc... I’m sure you will work it out. Tighten firm but not rock tight !!

If your getting perfect Star shape at 60 sec or even better , 80 sec , then your PA should be OK

Under guiding your Ra pulses or corrections will always be up down but not necessarily continuous ( unless your chasing the seeing in bad conditions where it is saw toothing badly )
Your Dec pulses or corrections will be minimal and sometimes only one way as the Dec motor is rarely on
When dithering you usually see the Dec pulses or corrections spike a bit
Your individual guiding numbers usually give you a good idea how your tracking

Also check for PE ( periodic error ) in your guiding where you see an unusually large spike or excursion in Ra every so often ( sometimes every sub or second sub ) this can cause slanted or eggy stars as well
You can PEC train your mount to minimise this affect but you cannot totally remove it , it mechanical , usually found in mass produced lower end mounts like ours

Also check Dec backlash in your mount. In PHD2 you use the Guiding Assistant to test this , it switches off guiding for 2 or 3 minutes and looks how the mount behaves when tracking and when asked to move back to the guide Star lock position
Once completed , it gives you a table of data including polar alignment and Dec backlash
A Dec backlash of under 500ms on these mounts is acceptable

Below is a link to the dovetail bar I used for my Orion 60mm guidescope and ZWO guide camera mounted on the tube rings of my 8” f5 GSO Bintel newt

https://www.bintel.com.au/product/lo...plate-14-inch/

Cheers
Martin
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  #22  
Old 30-03-2022, 09:42 AM
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Stephane
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Thanks, Martin. I’ll have a careful look at all these points. I am particularly curious about the East heavy one and getting Losmandy bar. Much appreciated, thanks again.
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  #23  
Old 30-03-2022, 09:56 AM
Startrek (Martin)
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Glad to help where I can
Attached photo of my guide scope set up on the 8” f5 Newt
Cheers
Martin
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  #24  
Old 30-03-2022, 11:04 AM
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Stephane
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Martin, you’ve read my mind. I was next going to ask for a photo of your guide setup! I see you’ve bolted the bracket twice to the Losmandy bar. I was wondering about that. That thing will not budge. I’ll need some M8 bolts too.

While I’m at it, I think I will dismantle the OTA, and spray paint a few things black and carefully paint the sides of the mirrors. There are some great YouTube videos out there on enhancing Newtonians. Any recommendations on a matte black spray & matte black paint? Thanks.
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  #25  
Old 30-03-2022, 11:27 AM
Startrek (Martin)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stephane View Post
Martin, you’ve read my mind. I was next going to ask for a photo of your guide setup! I see you’ve bolted the bracket twice to the Losmandy bar. I was wondering about that. That thing will not budge. I’ll need some M8 bolts too.

While I’m at it, I think I will dismantle the OTA, and spray paint a few things black and carefully paint the sides of the mirrors. There are some great YouTube videos out there on enhancing Newtonians. Any recommendations on a matte black spray & matte black paint? Thanks.
I’d be careful painting the mirrors and to be honest I don’t think you need to , there’s more important things you need to address before painting sides of mirrors IMO
When I take flats and bias calibration frames I just fit a shower cap ( outside sprayed black) over the end of the OTA to eliminate light leakage
I’m leaving my mirrors alone ( just a clean every year )

Yes, I used 2 bolts to secure the mini bracket that holds the guide scope tube rings
Everything has to be solidly fixed especially when using guide scope assemblies for focal lengths of 1000mm and up to 1500mm , beyond 1500mm fl it’s best to use an OAG which has its own set up and running issues too.

Cheers
Martin
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